Window motor on '90 Accord?

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DaveC

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Driver's window stopped on this LX 4-door. Switch wouldn't do anything. If I hold the switch up or down and give the window a tug, it will continue to the top or bottom.

Is this the motor going out? If so, I see that they list for almost $300 and retail for a bit over $200. Can these be rebuilt? Anyone done this? Are brushes easy to replace on these?

How tough is the motor and regulator to get out of these cars?
 
Don't know about the troubleshooting part, but if you really need a new motor go to http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_hondamtr.htm for a sub $100 alternative. I have bought a power door lock kit from that company once and they are easy to deal with.
 
Don't know about the troubleshooting part, but if you really need a new motor go to http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_hondamtr.htm for a sub $100 alternative. I have bought a power door lock kit from that company once and they are easy to deal with.
 
http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_hondamtr.htm
Click to expand...

Thanks,

Anyone have experience installing this brand motor & regulator? Is the fit good? Any problems with function?

BTW, can I just swap the passenger side motor with the driver's side? (I know the regulator won't swap).

Thanks again
 
http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_hondamtr.htm
Click to expand...

Thanks,

Anyone have experience installing this brand motor & regulator? Is the fit good? Any problems with function?

BTW, can I just swap the passenger side motor with the driver's side? (I know the regulator won't swap).

Thanks again
 
In the past, I've used the inside door handle part from the rear door to fix the front one. May be something to try with the motor. bob
 
In the past, I've used the inside door handle part from the rear door to fix the front one. May be something to try with the motor. bob
 
Hi,

Sounds like it probably is the motor on the way out, but it may also be worth checking and greasing the runners/slides that operate the window.

I have a 94 Accord, and had a similar problem with the window stopping and it turned out that a small plastic guide-wheel that turns inside the lower runner had sheered and caused the window to 'stick'. I greased everything and it worked great for a short time, until the plastic wheel decided to jump out of the runner, and warp it badly!!!! Now I am going to have to change the whole sliding mechanism.

Good luck

Gary
 
Hi,

Sounds like it probably is the motor on the way out, but it may also be worth checking and greasing the runners/slides that operate the window.

I have a 94 Accord, and had a similar problem with the window stopping and it turned out that a small plastic guide-wheel that turns inside the lower runner had sheered and caused the window to 'stick'. I greased everything and it worked great for a short time, until the plastic wheel decided to jump out of the runner, and warp it badly!!!! Now I am going to have to change the whole sliding mechanism.

Good luck

Gary
 
Dave,
Does the motor seem like it's running at all? The reason I ask is I had a problem with the power windows on my 89 LXi. I unnecessarily took the glass and motor out only to find it was the "black box" that allows the window to go all of the way down with a button push. After getting the door apart (and that was no fun), I was bummed to find the motor was good.

Below is my post from yesterday.

Subject: Re: 91 Accord doesn't start

Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
design issue of not properly bracing a component to the printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ- ment like a car, eventual failure.

Good luck,
chuck
 
Dave,
Does the motor seem like it's running at all? The reason I ask is I had a problem with the power windows on my 89 LXi. I unnecessarily took the glass and motor out only to find it was the "black box" that allows the window to go all of the way down with a button push. After getting the door apart (and that was no fun), I was bummed to find the motor was good.

Below is my post from yesterday.

Subject: Re: 91 Accord doesn't start

Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
design issue of not properly bracing a component to the printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ- ment like a car, eventual failure.

Good luck,
chuck
 
Yeah, I had a bad driver's window on my 91 accord. The motor was fine, but the mechanism got stuck because the metal teeth on the regulator were worn (all pointy instead of round-tipped) and the nylon gears off the motor shaft were shot.

Always looking for the cheap out, I greased it all up and put it back together. Worked great for a couple days. I ended up with a new motor and regulator and pulling the door apart half a dozen times b/c I was so cheap about it.

Shop around and get a deal for around $150 on the motor and regulator and you'll be all set.
 
Yeah, I had a bad driver's window on my 91 accord. The motor was fine, but the mechanism got stuck because the metal teeth on the regulator were worn (all pointy instead of round-tipped) and the nylon gears off the motor shaft were shot.

Always looking for the cheap out, I greased it all up and put it back together. Worked great for a couple days. I ended up with a new motor and regulator and pulling the door apart half a dozen times b/c I was so cheap about it.

Shop around and get a deal for around $150 on the motor and regulator and you'll be all set.
 
Somewhere, probably in the motor case will be a limit switch (or two) to stop the motor when the glass is at end of travel. I would guess it's spring loaded switch with diodes. When the glass is fully up, a diode is switched-in to allow the motor to go "down" only. When you pull on the glass you are probably resetting the switch. The switches are not shown on the wiring diagrams.

Before you buy a new mechanism, grease everything on the mechanism, that may be all you need to to fix it. The resistance of the frozed joint may be causing the limits to think the glass is a end of travel.

I do motor control for a living, I am not an auto mechanic. On one of my projects, the limits would be separate devices.

I wish you luck.

PS. The window on my '92 Accord was acting up and making lots of noise so I greased it and it now works properly. Use White Lithium Grease not oil, and definately not WD40.
 
Somewhere, probably in the motor case will be a limit switch (or two) to stop the motor when the glass is at end of travel. I would guess it's spring loaded switch with diodes. When the glass is fully up, a diode is switched-in to allow the motor to go "down" only. When you pull on the glass you are probably resetting the switch. The switches are not shown on the wiring diagrams.

Before you buy a new mechanism, grease everything on the mechanism, that may be all you need to to fix it. The resistance of the frozed joint may be causing the limits to think the glass is a end of travel.

I do motor control for a living, I am not an auto mechanic. On one of my projects, the limits would be separate devices.

I wish you luck.

PS. The window on my '92 Accord was acting up and making lots of noise so I greased it and it now works properly. Use White Lithium Grease not oil, and definately not WD40.
 
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