Window motor on '90 Accord?

Discussion in 'Accord' started by DaveC, Dec 11, 2003.

  1. DaveC

    DaveC Guest

    Driver's window stopped on this LX 4-door. Switch wouldn't do anything. If I
    hold the switch up or down and give the window a tug, it will continue to the
    top or bottom.

    Is this the motor going out? If so, I see that they list for almost $300 and
    retail for a bit over $200. Can these be rebuilt? Anyone done this? Are
    brushes easy to replace on these?

    How tough is the motor and regulator to get out of these cars?
     
    DaveC, Dec 11, 2003
    #1
  2. DaveC

    Randolph Guest

    Don't know about the troubleshooting part, but if you really need a new
    motor go to http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_hondamtr.htm for a sub
    $100 alternative. I have bought a power door lock kit from that company
    once and they are easy to deal with.
     
    Randolph, Dec 11, 2003
    #2
  3. DaveC

    Randolph Guest

    Don't know about the troubleshooting part, but if you really need a new
    motor go to http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_hondamtr.htm for a sub
    $100 alternative. I have bought a power door lock kit from that company
    once and they are easy to deal with.
     
    Randolph, Dec 11, 2003
    #3
  4. DaveC

    DaveC Guest

    Thanks,

    Anyone have experience installing this brand motor & regulator? Is the fit
    good? Any problems with function?

    BTW, can I just swap the passenger side motor with the driver's side? (I know
    the regulator won't swap).

    Thanks again
     
    DaveC, Dec 11, 2003
    #4
  5. DaveC

    DaveC Guest

    Thanks,

    Anyone have experience installing this brand motor & regulator? Is the fit
    good? Any problems with function?

    BTW, can I just swap the passenger side motor with the driver's side? (I know
    the regulator won't swap).

    Thanks again
     
    DaveC, Dec 11, 2003
    #5
  6. DaveC

    N.E.Ohio Bob Guest

    2 or 4 Door?
     
    N.E.Ohio Bob, Dec 11, 2003
    #6
  7. DaveC

    N.E.Ohio Bob Guest

    2 or 4 Door?
     
    N.E.Ohio Bob, Dec 11, 2003
    #7
  8. DaveC

    DaveC Guest

    4-door LX

    Thanks,
     
    DaveC, Dec 11, 2003
    #8
  9. DaveC

    DaveC Guest

    4-door LX

    Thanks,
     
    DaveC, Dec 11, 2003
    #9
  10. DaveC

    N.E.Ohio Bob Guest

    In the past, I've used the inside door handle part from the rear door
    to fix the front one. May be something to try with the motor. bob
     
    N.E.Ohio Bob, Dec 11, 2003
    #10
  11. DaveC

    N.E.Ohio Bob Guest

    In the past, I've used the inside door handle part from the rear door
    to fix the front one. May be something to try with the motor. bob
     
    N.E.Ohio Bob, Dec 11, 2003
    #11
  12. DaveC

    Gary Murison Guest

    Hi,

    Sounds like it probably is the motor on the way out, but it may also be
    worth checking and greasing the runners/slides that operate the window.

    I have a 94 Accord, and had a similar problem with the window stopping and
    it turned out that a small plastic guide-wheel that turns inside the lower
    runner had sheered and caused the window to 'stick'. I greased everything
    and it worked great for a short time, until the plastic wheel decided to
    jump out of the runner, and warp it badly!!!! Now I am going to have to
    change the whole sliding mechanism.

    Good luck

    Gary
     
    Gary Murison, Dec 11, 2003
    #12
  13. DaveC

    Gary Murison Guest

    Hi,

    Sounds like it probably is the motor on the way out, but it may also be
    worth checking and greasing the runners/slides that operate the window.

    I have a 94 Accord, and had a similar problem with the window stopping and
    it turned out that a small plastic guide-wheel that turns inside the lower
    runner had sheered and caused the window to 'stick'. I greased everything
    and it worked great for a short time, until the plastic wheel decided to
    jump out of the runner, and warp it badly!!!! Now I am going to have to
    change the whole sliding mechanism.

    Good luck

    Gary
     
    Gary Murison, Dec 11, 2003
    #13
  14. DaveC

    chuck smoko Guest

    Dave,
    Does the motor seem like it's running at all? The reason
    I ask is I had a problem with the power windows on my
    89 LXi. I unnecessarily took the glass and motor out
    only to find it was the "black box" that allows the window
    to go all of the way down with a button push. After getting
    the door apart (and that was no fun), I was bummed to
    find the motor was good.

    Below is my post from yesterday.

    Subject: Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
    Newsgroups: alt.autos.honda

    Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
    other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
    controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
    solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
    going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
    design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
    printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
    hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
    ment like a car, eventual failure.

    Good luck,
    chuck
     
    chuck smoko, Jan 31, 2004
    #14
  15. DaveC

    chuck smoko Guest

    Dave,
    Does the motor seem like it's running at all? The reason
    I ask is I had a problem with the power windows on my
    89 LXi. I unnecessarily took the glass and motor out
    only to find it was the "black box" that allows the window
    to go all of the way down with a button push. After getting
    the door apart (and that was no fun), I was bummed to
    find the motor was good.

    Below is my post from yesterday.

    Subject: Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
    Newsgroups: alt.autos.honda

    Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
    other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
    controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
    solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
    going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
    design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
    printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
    hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
    ment like a car, eventual failure.

    Good luck,
    chuck
     
    chuck smoko, Jan 31, 2004
    #15
  16. DaveC

    joe Guest

    Yeah, I had a bad driver's window on my 91 accord. The motor was
    fine, but the mechanism got stuck because the metal teeth on the
    regulator were worn (all pointy instead of round-tipped) and the nylon
    gears off the motor shaft were shot.

    Always looking for the cheap out, I greased it all up and put it back
    together. Worked great for a couple days. I ended up with a new
    motor and regulator and pulling the door apart half a dozen times b/c
    I was so cheap about it.

    Shop around and get a deal for around $150 on the motor and regulator
    and you'll be all set.
     
    joe, Feb 4, 2004
    #16
  17. DaveC

    joe Guest

    Yeah, I had a bad driver's window on my 91 accord. The motor was
    fine, but the mechanism got stuck because the metal teeth on the
    regulator were worn (all pointy instead of round-tipped) and the nylon
    gears off the motor shaft were shot.

    Always looking for the cheap out, I greased it all up and put it back
    together. Worked great for a couple days. I ended up with a new
    motor and regulator and pulling the door apart half a dozen times b/c
    I was so cheap about it.

    Shop around and get a deal for around $150 on the motor and regulator
    and you'll be all set.
     
    joe, Feb 4, 2004
    #17
  18. DaveC

    Charlie S Guest

    Somewhere, probably in the motor case will be a limit switch (or two)
    to stop the motor when the glass is at end of travel. I would guess
    it's spring loaded switch with diodes. When the glass is fully up, a
    diode is switched-in to allow the motor to go "down" only. When you
    pull on the glass you are probably resetting the switch. The switches
    are not shown on the wiring diagrams.

    Before you buy a new mechanism, grease everything on the mechanism,
    that may be all you need to to fix it. The resistance of the frozed
    joint may be causing the limits to think the glass is a end of travel.

    I do motor control for a living, I am not an auto mechanic. On one of
    my projects, the limits would be separate devices.

    I wish you luck.

    PS. The window on my '92 Accord was acting up and making lots of noise
    so I greased it and it now works properly. Use White Lithium Grease
    not oil, and definately not WD40.
     
    Charlie S, Feb 4, 2004
    #18
  19. DaveC

    Charlie S Guest

    Somewhere, probably in the motor case will be a limit switch (or two)
    to stop the motor when the glass is at end of travel. I would guess
    it's spring loaded switch with diodes. When the glass is fully up, a
    diode is switched-in to allow the motor to go "down" only. When you
    pull on the glass you are probably resetting the switch. The switches
    are not shown on the wiring diagrams.

    Before you buy a new mechanism, grease everything on the mechanism,
    that may be all you need to to fix it. The resistance of the frozed
    joint may be causing the limits to think the glass is a end of travel.

    I do motor control for a living, I am not an auto mechanic. On one of
    my projects, the limits would be separate devices.

    I wish you luck.

    PS. The window on my '92 Accord was acting up and making lots of noise
    so I greased it and it now works properly. Use White Lithium Grease
    not oil, and definately not WD40.
     
    Charlie S, Feb 4, 2004
    #19
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