what brand of engine oil is good for honda pilots?

Discussion in 'Pilot' started by mike113, Apr 10, 2005.

  1. mike113

    mike113 Guest

    should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand of oil do u
    people think is good.
     
    mike113, Apr 10, 2005
    #1
  2. mike113

    halo2 guy Guest

    Mobil 1 full synthetic
     
    halo2 guy, Apr 10, 2005
    #2
  3. mike113

    jmattis Guest

    I use Pennzoil 10W30 in the MDX, change every 4-6,000 miles.

    If I switched to synthethic, I'd use Mobil One 0-W20. Yes, it's
    showing better oil test numbers than 5W20.

    If you use 5W20 dino oil, as recommended by Honda, abandon their oil
    change interval. Testing shows this oil is shot at 3,000 miles.
     
    jmattis, Apr 10, 2005
    #3
  4. mike113

    disallow Guest

    Where did you find that info? I would be very
    interested in seeing it!

    t
     
    disallow, Apr 11, 2005
    #4
  5. mike113

    y_p_w Guest

    Probably from used oil analysis. UOA can test for wear
    particles, contamination, and viscosity loss/gain. If
    an oil is shot, sometimes the VI improvers shear down and
    no longer provide adequate protection. In other cases the
    oil excessively thickens to the point where engine parts
    can be oil starved at startup.
     
    y_p_w, Apr 11, 2005
    #5
  6. mike113

    y_p_w Guest

    Mobil is no longer marketing Mobil 1 0W-20. They still may be making
    a 0W-20 for Honda (for the hybrids). However - there's now a Mobil 1
    5W-20 on the market. Also - Mobil's datasheets show that Mobil 1
    5W-30 is awfully close to being a 5W-20.

    I suppose the problem some people are having with the "conventional"
    5W-20 oils are that they seem to include short-lived anti-wear
    additives to make it protect adequately. Mobil 1 probably doesn't
    need as much and will maintain its antiwear properties longer.
    What the heck is "dino" oil these days? Many "conventional" oils use
    higher performance "Group II" base. Some may even be semi-synthetic
    (even without being labelled as such), although the definition of
    "synthetic" is a but murky these days. Ford's Motorcraft 5W-20 is
    labelled as being "semi-synthetic", although it's unclear who makes
    it for them (or if they change suppliers often).
     
    y_p_w, Apr 11, 2005
    #6
  7. mike113

    jim beam Guest

    that motorcraft stuff is abysmal. i was initially attracted to the
    price & the "semi-synthetic" label, but all my seals started leaking
    badly within a few hundred miles. as in the main seal was leaking onto
    the exhaust so bad you'd leave a smoke trail through the car park. the
    motor started getting real rattly after about 2500 miles too. i'm now
    back on castrol & the leaking has all but stopped. 89 civic.
     
    jim beam, Apr 12, 2005
    #7
  8. mike113

    halo2 guy Guest

    So you take an 89 Civic and just put in synthetic? So I guess the fact that
    your seals are bad in the first place doesn't really matter to you. The
    only thing synthetic did was clean your engine and seals of crud that had
    accumulated and now they are leaking. Put the old dino oil back in and
    hopefully it will sludge up enough again to seal the engine up for you.
     
    halo2 guy, Apr 12, 2005
    #8
  9. mike113

    jim beam Guest

    sorry to burst your little bubble, but castrol is semi-synthetic too.
    it simply has a much better base & superior additive package than that
    ford garbage. that's also why it doesn't leave the engine rattling like
    a bag of nails. that ok for you?
     
    jim beam, Apr 12, 2005
    #9
  10. mike113

    y_p_w Guest

    What the heck is "synthetic" these days? I'm getting the feeling that
    in order to get decent performance out of a 5W-20, even the so-called
    "conventional" 5W-20 oils are using some Group III or PAO base oils.

    As for Castrol - they're rumored to used older "Group I" base oil for
    most of the Castrol GTX lineup, while most others have gone to more
    advanced "Group II". Pennzoil calls their base oil "PureBase", Chevron
    uses "IsoSyn", while others just say "group II".
     
    y_p_w, Apr 12, 2005
    #10
  11. mike113

    jim beam Guest

    good observations. the only thing we know for sure is that these words
    are the product of the marketing department, not the lab.

    while something like castrol gtx may not be the best of the best, from
    my viewpoint, any oil that can clean the crud out of old engines like so
    many of the clunkers i've had leaving them looking pretty much deposit
    free, any oil that does not leave your engine sounding like an old tin
    can being kicked around by a couple of kids, any oil that does not make
    an old motor leak like a marine oil spill disaster, has /got/ to be
    worth serious consideration.
     
    jim beam, Apr 13, 2005
    #11
  12. mike113

    Pars Guest

    I used to only use Castrol over a decade ago when I was driving an Old rear
    drive Cutlass Supreme V8 (when all 4 barrel opened up on that carburetor,
    that car could chase down just about anything on 4 wheels). So, the engine
    was in great shape, event though the rest of the car was quickly
    disintegrating. That was awhile ago and the Castrol might have been good for
    the older engine, but my comparatively newer 98 Civic runs just as well on
    the Mobel 1 (230,000km of aggressive driving and no rattles on cold
    startup). In the case of Jim's 89 Civic, the Castrol might be the better
    choice then the Mobel-1, since the older engine (with loose seals) might
    have hard time retaining it...

    Pars
     
    Pars, Apr 13, 2005
    #12
  13. I usually buy the brand name oil that is on sale and meets the manufacturers
    recommendations. I never had an oil related problem following this procedure.
     
    Alex Rodriguez, Apr 20, 2005
    #13
  14. mike113

    y_p_w Guest

     
    y_p_w, Apr 26, 2005
    #14
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