Valve clearance question

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I adjusted the valve clearances on a '95 Civic, 1.6L DOHC non-vtec, yesterday, with good results. However I read on an older thread that, while measuring the gap, you should push down on the other end of the rocker arm to eliminate slack.

Should I have done this?

Any other things to adjust to reduce engine clatter?
 
Any other things to adjust to reduce engine clatter?
Click to expand...

Shift WAY later, read the owner's manual about how high you can rev the Honda. It's often more efficient (and way easier on the engine) to use a lower gear and rev the engine up.

My CR-V manual says I can go 90 Mph (145 Km/Hr) before shifting out of D3 to D4 (DRIVE). The neighbors would notice.

'Curly'
 
Any other things to adjust to reduce engine clatter?
Click to expand...

Shift WAY later, read the owner's manual about how high you can rev the Honda. It's often more efficient (and way easier on the engine) to use a lower gear and rev the engine up.

My CR-V manual says I can go 90 Mph (145 Km/Hr) before shifting out of D3 to D4 (DRIVE). The neighbors would notice.

'Curly'
 
I adjusted the valve clearances on a '95 Civic, 1.6L DOHC non-vtec, yesterday, with good results. However I read on an older thread that, while measuring the gap, you should push down on the other end of the rocker arm to eliminate slack.

Should I have done this?
Click to expand...

No.
 
I adjusted the valve clearances on a '95 Civic, 1.6L DOHC non-vtec, yesterday, with good results. However I read on an older thread that, while measuring the gap, you should push down on the other end of the rocker arm to eliminate slack.

Should I have done this?
Click to expand...

No.
 
wrote in @m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com:
I adjusted the valve clearances on a '95 Civic, 1.6L DOHC non-vtec, yesterday, with good results. However I read on an older thread that, while measuring the gap, you should push down on the other end of the rocker arm to eliminate slack.
Click to expand...

WRONG! Just position the cam lobes properly (critical!) then slide the gauge in place. The fit should be just snug enough that you can feel a touch of drag when you slide it between the cam lobe and follower.

Warning: Some of the valves are placed such that it's VERY easy to mis- position the feeler and think the clearance is too tight. Give each one a good hard shove (short of bending the feeler) to make certain it actually won't go and isn't just twisted.

I like to use two gauges, a "go" and a "no go". Say tolerances are ..006" to .008". I'd use a .006" as a "go" and a .008" as a "no go". This means my final tolerances are necessarily between .006 and .008, and thus correct.

BTW, some feeler gauge sets are cheaply made and have a burr around the edges. You can feel this burr with your fingernail. If such exists on your set, gently file or sand it off.

Should I have done this?

Any other things to adjust to reduce engine clatter?
Click to expand...

Does this "clatter" happen all the time, or only for the first few seconds on startup?
 
wrote in @m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com:
I adjusted the valve clearances on a '95 Civic, 1.6L DOHC non-vtec, yesterday, with good results. However I read on an older thread that, while measuring the gap, you should push down on the other end of the rocker arm to eliminate slack.
Click to expand...

WRONG! Just position the cam lobes properly (critical!) then slide the gauge in place. The fit should be just snug enough that you can feel a touch of drag when you slide it between the cam lobe and follower.

Warning: Some of the valves are placed such that it's VERY easy to mis- position the feeler and think the clearance is too tight. Give each one a good hard shove (short of bending the feeler) to make certain it actually won't go and isn't just twisted.

I like to use two gauges, a "go" and a "no go". Say tolerances are ..006" to .008". I'd use a .006" as a "go" and a .008" as a "no go". This means my final tolerances are necessarily between .006 and .008, and thus correct.

BTW, some feeler gauge sets are cheaply made and have a burr around the edges. You can feel this burr with your fingernail. If such exists on your set, gently file or sand it off.

Should I have done this?

Any other things to adjust to reduce engine clatter?
Click to expand...

Does this "clatter" happen all the time, or only for the first few seconds on startup?
 
Can somebody please give me a some hint as to why valve adjustment is necessary. Thanks a lot. My 1996 civic seems alright at this moment. But as the winter sets in, I only notice "tick tick" sound in the morning for 1 or 1/2 minutes when the engine is cold. I was wondering if this is something to do with valve adjustment. It's got 220K km and I don't know its service history. Its been with me for 1 year, from 210Kkm. Its runs good, idles good and no unwanted sound coming from the engine either.
 
Can somebody please give me a some hint as to why valve adjustment is necessary. Thanks a lot. My 1996 civic seems alright at this moment. But as the winter sets in, I only notice "tick tick" sound in the morning for 1 or 1/2 minutes when the engine is cold. I was wondering if this is something to do with valve adjustment. It's got 220K km and I don't know its service history. Its been with me for 1 year, from 210Kkm. Its runs good, idles good and no unwanted sound coming from the engine either.
Click to expand...

Valve *adjustment* is not necessarily necessary (sorry). CHECKING *IS* necessary, as I say in my previous message.

The reason checking is necessary is because it is possible for the clearances to close up over time.

Should your valve clearances close up, the valves will be pressed against their seats for a shorter length of time, and will thus suffer inadequate cooling time. This means an increased probability of suffering a burned valve, which will leak and cause compression, emissions and power problems. Burned valves cost mucho dinero, hombre.

The only way to make sure your valves have adequate cooling time is to check the clearances at regular intervals. The factory specifies 30K miles. I do it more often than that, just 'cause I like to. YMMV, as the acronym goes...

*Loose* clearances are not a real problem. A loose valve is a happy valve. It has lots of time to give up lots of heat. A loose valve is also a noisy valve though, but that's the driver's problem. The solution is to turn up the radio. If it's REALLY noisy, like making a loud clacking noise at all times, then somebody's made a mistake and needs to go back in and fix it.

As far as your "ticking" sound, it's more likely piston slap or the power steering pump, not the valves. Valve noise is there all the time, not just when cold.
 
ExtremeValue said:
Can somebody please give me a some hint as to why valve adjustment is necessary.
Click to expand...

they need clearance to prevent valve burn. when running at max temp, the valve stem lengthens and closes up the gap a little. if the gap is insufficient, the valve never closes properly, hot gas leaks under it and hot spots develop. these then start to burn causing greater leakage, which makes the hot spots hotter, etc. remedy requires valve replacement, or worse, valve seat replacement. either way, it's a huge pita. avoid the discomfort by checking the valve lash every 30k and investing $5 in a new rocker cover gasket each time you do it.
Thanks a lot. My 1996 civic seems alright at this moment. But as the winter sets in, I only notice "tick tick" sound in the morning for 1 or 1/2 minutes when the engine is cold. I was wondering if this is something to do with valve adjustment.
Click to expand...

no, it's piston slap. make sure you use a quality branded oil and change at the specified intervals and it'll not get any worse. hint:
"quality branded" does NOT include motorcraft.
It's got 220K km and
I don't know its service history. Its been with me for 1 year, from 210Kkm. Its runs good, idles good and no unwanted sound coming from the engine either.
Click to expand...

you'll get double that mileage if you look after it.
 
I adjusted the valve clearances on a '95 Civic, 1.6L DOHC non-vtec, yesterday, with good results. However I read on an older thread that, while measuring the gap, you should push down on the other end of the rocker arm to eliminate slack.

Should I have done this?

Any other things to adjust to reduce engine clatter?
Click to expand...

I had to do that on a 97 Civic HX. The oil film between the cam and rockers made measurements highly inconsistent unless I first pulled up the rocker to squeeze away some oil. I only had to do this once per rocker and you shouldn't hold it while measuring.

My car before that required hot adjustment. Thick oil films weren't much of a problem but you got tiny 1st degree burns on your hands.
 
I adjusted the valve clearances on a '95 Civic, 1.6L DOHC non-vtec, yesterday, with good results. However I read on an older thread that, while measuring the gap, you should push down on the other end of the rocker arm to eliminate slack.

Should I have done this?

Any other things to adjust to reduce engine clatter?
Click to expand...

I had to do that on a 97 Civic HX. The oil film between the cam and rockers made measurements highly inconsistent unless I first pulled up the rocker to squeeze away some oil. I only had to do this once per rocker and you shouldn't hold it while measuring.

My car before that required hot adjustment. Thick oil films weren't much of a problem but you got tiny 1st degree burns on your hands.
 
necessary, as I say in my previous message.

The reason checking is necessary is because it is possible for the clearances to close up over time.

Should your valve clearances close up, the valves will be pressed against their seats for a shorter length of time, and will thus suffer inadequate cooling time. This means an increased probability of suffering a burned valve, which will leak and cause compression, emissions and power problems. Burned valves cost mucho dinero, hombre.

The only way to make sure your valves have adequate cooling time is to check the clearances at regular intervals. The factory specifies 30K miles. I do it more often than that, just 'cause I like to. YMMV, as the acronym goes...

*Loose* clearances are not a real problem. A loose valve is a happy valve. It has lots of time to give up lots of heat. A loose valve is also a noisy valve though, but that's the driver's problem. The solution is to turn up the radio. If it's REALLY noisy, like making a loud clacking noise at all times, then somebody's made a mistake and needs to go back in and fix it.

As far as your "ticking" sound, it's more likely piston slap or the power steering pump, not the valves. Valve noise is there all the time, not just when cold.
Click to expand...

TeGGeR®

Hello Boss
I guess what I was trying to ask is that whether I need to check the valve clearance and I got the answer from your post. I am only 1-year experienced with my honda.
 
the valve stem lengthens and closes up the gap a little. if the gap is insufficient, the valve never closes properly, hot gas leaks under it and hot spots develop. these then start to burn causing greater leakage, which makes the hot spots hotter, etc. remedy requires valve replacement, or worse, valve seat replacement. either way, it's a huge pita. avoid the discomfort by checking the valve lash every 30k and investing $5 in a new rocker cover gasket each time you do it.

change at the specified intervals and it'll not get any worse. hint:
"quality branded" does NOT include motorcraft.
Click to expand...

Hi

You are probably correct as the sound comes from the engine only in the morning (very cold here at Waterloo, ON). I change oil at regular interval from Honda only. Thanks.

That is very good to know.Yes, I've been taking good care of it:)
 
TeGGeR® said:
Does this "clatter" happen all the time, or only for the first few seconds on startup?
Click to expand...

Well, the engine used to be "clattery" at any temp (more when cold), but after replacing the PCV, cleaning the TB, replacing idle screw gasket, plugging vacuum leaks and adjusting the valve clearances, it's a lot quieter now (idle RPM is now within spec). But I was wondering if there was anything else I could have missed.

What makes some engines more quiet than others (given roughly the same specs)?
 
TeGGeR® said:
Does this "clatter" happen all the time, or only for the first few seconds on startup?
Click to expand...

Well, the engine used to be "clattery" at any temp (more when cold), but after replacing the PCV, cleaning the TB, replacing idle screw gasket, plugging vacuum leaks and adjusting the valve clearances, it's a lot quieter now (idle RPM is now within spec). But I was wondering if there was anything else I could have missed.

What makes some engines more quiet than others (given roughly the same specs)?
 
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