Valve clearance question

I adjusted the valve clearances on a '95 Civic, 1.6L DOHC non-vtec,
yesterday, with good results. However I read on an older thread that,
while measuring the gap, you should push down on the other end of the
rocker arm to eliminate slack.

Should I have done this?

Any other things to adjust to reduce engine clatter?

 

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Shift WAY later, read the owner's manual about how high you can rev the
Honda. It's often more efficient (and way easier on the engine) to use a
lower gear and rev the engine up.

My CR-V manual says I can go 90 Mph (145 Km/Hr) before shifting out of
D3 to D4 (DRIVE). The neighbors would notice.

'Curly'

 

------------------------------------

Shift WAY later, read the owner's manual about how high you can rev the
Honda. It's often more efficient (and way easier on the engine) to use a
lower gear and rev the engine up.

My CR-V manual says I can go 90 Mph (145 Km/Hr) before shifting out of
D3 to D4 (DRIVE). The neighbors would notice.

'Curly'

 

No.

 

No.

 

wrote in @m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com:

WRONG! Just position the cam lobes properly (critical!) then slide the
gauge in place. The fit should be just snug enough that you can feel a
touch of drag when you slide it between the cam lobe and follower.

Warning: Some of the valves are placed such that it's VERY easy to mis-
position the feeler and think the clearance is too tight. Give each one
a good hard shove (short of bending the feeler) to make certain it
actually won't go and isn't just twisted.

I like to use two gauges, a "go" and a "no go". Say tolerances are
..006" to .008". I'd use a .006" as a "go" and a .008" as a "no go". This
means my final tolerances are necessarily between .006 and .008, and
thus correct.

BTW, some feeler gauge sets are cheaply made and have a burr around the
edges. You can feel this burr with your fingernail. If such exists on
your set, gently file or sand it off.

Does this "clatter" happen all the time, or only for the first few
seconds on startup?

 

wrote in @m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com:

WRONG! Just position the cam lobes properly (critical!) then slide the
gauge in place. The fit should be just snug enough that you can feel a
touch of drag when you slide it between the cam lobe and follower.

Warning: Some of the valves are placed such that it's VERY easy to mis-
position the feeler and think the clearance is too tight. Give each one
a good hard shove (short of bending the feeler) to make certain it
actually won't go and isn't just twisted.

I like to use two gauges, a "go" and a "no go". Say tolerances are
..006" to .008". I'd use a .006" as a "go" and a .008" as a "no go". This
means my final tolerances are necessarily between .006 and .008, and
thus correct.

BTW, some feeler gauge sets are cheaply made and have a burr around the
edges. You can feel this burr with your fingernail. If such exists on
your set, gently file or sand it off.

Does this "clatter" happen all the time, or only for the first few
seconds on startup?

 

Can somebody please give me a some hint as to why valve adjustment is
necessary. Thanks a lot. My 1996 civic seems alright at this moment.
But as the winter sets in, I only notice "tick tick" sound in the
morning for 1 or 1/2 minutes when the engine is cold. I was wondering
if this is something to do with valve adjustment. It's got 220K km and
I don't know its service history. Its been with me for 1 year, from
210Kkm. Its runs good, idles good and no unwanted sound coming from the
engine either.

 

Valve *adjustment* is not necessarily necessary (sorry). CHECKING *IS*
necessary, as I say in my previous message.

The reason checking is necessary is because it is possible for the
clearances to close up over time.

Should your valve clearances close up, the valves will be pressed
against their seats for a shorter length of time, and will thus suffer
inadequate cooling time. This means an increased probability of
suffering a burned valve, which will leak and cause compression,
emissions and power problems. Burned valves cost mucho dinero, hombre.

The only way to make sure your valves have adequate cooling time is to
check the clearances at regular intervals. The factory specifies 30K
miles. I do it more often than that, just 'cause I like to. YMMV, as the
acronym goes...

*Loose* clearances are not a real problem. A loose valve is a happy
valve. It has lots of time to give up lots of heat. A loose valve is
also a noisy valve though, but that's the driver's problem. The solution
is to turn up the radio.
If it's REALLY noisy, like making a loud clacking noise at all times,
then somebody's made a mistake and needs to go back in and fix it.

As far as your "ticking" sound, it's more likely piston slap or the
power steering pump, not the valves. Valve noise is there all the time,
not just when cold.

 

they need clearance to prevent valve burn. when running at max temp,
the valve stem lengthens and closes up the gap a little. if the gap is
insufficient, the valve never closes properly, hot gas leaks under it
and hot spots develop. these then start to burn causing greater
leakage, which makes the hot spots hotter, etc. remedy requires valve
replacement, or worse, valve seat replacement. either way, it's a huge
pita. avoid the discomfort by checking the valve lash every 30k and
investing $5 in a new rocker cover gasket each time you do it.

no, it's piston slap. make sure you use a quality branded oil and
change at the specified intervals and it'll not get any worse. hint:
"quality branded" does NOT include motorcraft.

you'll get double that mileage if you look after it.

 

I had to do that on a 97 Civic HX. The oil film between the cam and
rockers made measurements highly inconsistent unless I first pulled up
the rocker to squeeze away some oil. I only had to do this once per
rocker and you shouldn't hold it while measuring.

My car before that required hot adjustment. Thick oil films weren't
much of a problem but you got tiny 1st degree burns on your hands.

 

I had to do that on a 97 Civic HX. The oil film between the cam and
rockers made measurements highly inconsistent unless I first pulled up
the rocker to squeeze away some oil. I only had to do this once per
rocker and you shouldn't hold it while measuring.

My car before that required hot adjustment. Thick oil films weren't
much of a problem but you got tiny 1st degree burns on your hands.

 

TeGGeR®

Hello Boss
I guess what I was trying to ask is that whether I need to check the
valve clearance and I got the answer from your post. I am only 1-year
experienced with my honda.

 

Hi

You are probably correct as the sound comes from the engine only in the
morning (very cold here at Waterloo, ON). I change oil at regular
interval from Honda only. Thanks.


That is very good to know.Yes, I've been taking good care of it

 

Well, the engine used to be "clattery" at any temp (more when cold),
but after replacing the PCV, cleaning the TB, replacing idle screw
gasket, plugging vacuum leaks and adjusting the valve clearances, it's
a lot quieter now (idle RPM is now within spec). But I was wondering if
there was anything else I could have missed.

What makes some engines more quiet than others (given roughly the same
specs)?

 

Well, the engine used to be "clattery" at any temp (more when cold),
but after replacing the PCV, cleaning the TB, replacing idle screw
gasket, plugging vacuum leaks and adjusting the valve clearances, it's
a lot quieter now (idle RPM is now within spec). But I was wondering if
there was anything else I could have missed.

What makes some engines more quiet than others (given roughly the same
specs)?

 

wear. oil quality.

 

wear. oil quality.