I have a 96 honda accord lx non vtec. I went to the dealership becasue it sounds like my engine was ticking. So they sound my valves have to be adjusted. I have a haynes manual. I looked at it and it seems like its pretty hard to do. Is it really that hard to adjust the valves? Any suggestions or tips or help?
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Valve adjustment
- Thread starter amsjsj
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N.E.Ohio Bob
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First time you do it is the hardest. If you have a feel for what it is you are trying to end up with, and have had the valve cover off and on, it should be something you could try. See if you want to invest in the little hand tool that makes the actual adjustment easier. It combines a wrench and screwdriver in one tool. bob
Valve adjustment for all Hondas is a trivial task - but only with proper tools and time. Following their procedure is important. Engine should be overnight cooled since any engine heat does significantly change adjustment. Get a feeler gauge from someplace, like Sears, with a 45 degree bend - because some intake valves cannot be properly adjusted using a straight feeler gauge (as that mechanic tried to do). Have the 10 mm close end wrench and good, regular sized, flat blade screwdriver to loosen and tighten the adjusting screw. Holding screw with screwdriver as locking nut is tightened. A 19 mm socket and breaker bar to rotate engine for each valve.
If the previous 'mechanic' did not screw up valve
adjustment, then each valve adjust would adjust less than '5 minutes on the hour'. Adjustment so bad as to make loud ticking is more often due to an above described mechanic. Found one mechanic's adjustment so poor that some (obstructed) intake valves were between '60 and 90 minutes' too loose. In the entire life of a Honda, no valves required more than a total '10 minutes on the clock' change - which is why a previous mechanic is more often suspect as reason for noise.
Best to use three feeler gauges. One that is slightly too thin, one that is proper size, and a third being too thick. Adjustment numbers for intake and exhaust found on an engine hood decal. After adjusting to the middle gauge, then a thin gauge should feel decidedly loose and the thick gauge difficult to drive between rocker arm and valve. This is how to confirm or 'get the feel' for each valve adjustment.
Where is the #1 Top Dead Center mark on timing chain wheel? Start by marking that notch with red nail polish - faint mark becomes easy to see. Also write with magic marker the numbers '2' and '3' on timing gear's ribs to remember which position is for those valves.
A breaker bar and 19 mm socket is best for turning engine using provided 'wheel well' hole. Before opening hood, turn steering wheel fully left to access the hole. After doing each valve once, then rotate engine a second time just to confirm each adjustment, so that proper size gauge still slides and the 'too thick' gauge sticks.
If the previous 'mechanic' did not screw up valve
adjustment, then each valve adjust would adjust less than '5 minutes on the hour'. Adjustment so bad as to make loud ticking is more often due to an above described mechanic. Found one mechanic's adjustment so poor that some (obstructed) intake valves were between '60 and 90 minutes' too loose. In the entire life of a Honda, no valves required more than a total '10 minutes on the clock' change - which is why a previous mechanic is more often suspect as reason for noise.
Best to use three feeler gauges. One that is slightly too thin, one that is proper size, and a third being too thick. Adjustment numbers for intake and exhaust found on an engine hood decal. After adjusting to the middle gauge, then a thin gauge should feel decidedly loose and the thick gauge difficult to drive between rocker arm and valve. This is how to confirm or 'get the feel' for each valve adjustment.
Where is the #1 Top Dead Center mark on timing chain wheel? Start by marking that notch with red nail polish - faint mark becomes easy to see. Also write with magic marker the numbers '2' and '3' on timing gear's ribs to remember which position is for those valves.
A breaker bar and 19 mm socket is best for turning engine using provided 'wheel well' hole. Before opening hood, turn steering wheel fully left to access the hole. After doing each valve once, then rotate engine a second time just to confirm each adjustment, so that proper size gauge still slides and the 'too thick' gauge sticks.
Each tool was only a few dollars and available most
everywhere - including Kmart. This is one job that virtually anyone can do - and really not possible to screw up. Even if it gets done wrong - valves too loose, car will still drive without damage to dealer. If this task is too difficult or if tools not available, then don't do anything to a honda; always get a mechanic. Valve lash being a most simple job, quite educational. Requires patience and time.
everywhere - including Kmart. This is one job that virtually anyone can do - and really not possible to screw up. Even if it gets done wrong - valves too loose, car will still drive without damage to dealer. If this task is too difficult or if tools not available, then don't do anything to a honda; always get a mechanic. Valve lash being a most simple job, quite educational. Requires patience and time.
w_tom said:Each tool was only a few dollars and available most
everywhere - including Kmart. This is one job that virtually anyone can do - and really not possible to screw up.
Sure it is, it's possible to screw anything up including a valve adjustment. I've seen techs get the valve cover gasket on wrong which caused oil leaks on the timing belt.
I've also seen techs leave the lock nut loose. If this nut backs off all of the way it can cause physical damage to the engine especially the camshaft.
By the way, buying ultra inexpensive tools from KMart is not a good investment. Quality tools will pay for themselves over the years that you own them. I've had some cheap plastic screwdriver handles literally break apart in my hand as I was using them.
Eric
Stephen Bigelow
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amsjsj said:Well i foudn some tools, i got the feeler gauge i was reading and i have the concept of adjusting the valves. What confuses me is the trurning of the cam shaft. What is a breaker bar?
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/tools.asp?parent=1I1418P1025M0
Also do i have to replace the gasket?
Always a good idea.
Valve cover gasket required replacement when automakers were more concerned with their costs than the owner's problems. Today, a valve cover gasket is a neoprene type material that makes leaks and replacement irrelevant. Valve cover cannot be attached backwards or incorrectly. Once those four valve cover nuts are tightened, then valve cover is sealed and restored - without a new gasket.
Usually removing a cover (after nuts are removed) requires some gentle prying. Start by separating cover from plastic timing chain cover - the semicircular round part of valve cover on your right (left side of car). Valve cover will then simply peal off the engine. Best not to pry between aluminum engine and valve cover so as to not dimple the engine's aluminum.
A hole in wheel well permits turning engine crank shaft - to rotate pistons and valve cam. Breaker bar (or rachetted socket wrench) is simply a long shaft that attaches to a 19 mm socket via a 3 or 4 inch extension. I use a 1/2" drive socket, extension, and wrench; but 3/8" may also work. (Then with a 17 mm socket and that breaker bar, I also have a better wrench, if necessary, to replace a flat tire.)
Forgot to mention that engine must be out of gear (or in park) so that 19 mm socket can freely rotate engine crankshaft. This 19 mm socket simply attaches to a bolt at end of engine crankshaft. Third party maintenance manual would have pictures of this bolt and pulley wheel (timing chain pulley wheel connects timing chain from cam to crankshaft). Turn front wheels fully to left and view that access hole.
Usually removing a cover (after nuts are removed) requires some gentle prying. Start by separating cover from plastic timing chain cover - the semicircular round part of valve cover on your right (left side of car). Valve cover will then simply peal off the engine. Best not to pry between aluminum engine and valve cover so as to not dimple the engine's aluminum.
A hole in wheel well permits turning engine crank shaft - to rotate pistons and valve cam. Breaker bar (or rachetted socket wrench) is simply a long shaft that attaches to a 19 mm socket via a 3 or 4 inch extension. I use a 1/2" drive socket, extension, and wrench; but 3/8" may also work. (Then with a 17 mm socket and that breaker bar, I also have a better wrench, if necessary, to replace a flat tire.)
Forgot to mention that engine must be out of gear (or in park) so that 19 mm socket can freely rotate engine crankshaft. This 19 mm socket simply attaches to a bolt at end of engine crankshaft. Third party maintenance manual would have pictures of this bolt and pulley wheel (timing chain pulley wheel connects timing chain from cam to crankshaft). Turn front wheels fully to left and view that access hole.
so when i take the valve cover off the timing belt cover comes off as well to acces the bolt that turns the crank shaft? Sorry about being a pain in the rear but i think this will help out anybody thats like me. Again i appreciate the help.
null_pointer
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I don't want to sound condescending, but if you need to be asking these types of questions here, you should give serious consideration to having someone knowledgeable walk you through this the first time. I've done this several times with friends. There are too many ways to do it wrong and some of these could cause serious damageso when i take the valve cover off the timing belt cover comes off as well to acces the bolt that turns the crank shaft? Sorry about being a pain in the rear but i think this will help out anybody thats like me. Again i appreciate the help.
Stephen Bigelow
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I don't want to sound condescending, but if you need to be asking these types of questions here, you should give serious consideration to having someone knowledgeable walk you through this the first time. I've done this several times with friends. There are too many ways to do it wrong and some of these could cause serious damage
Not to mention, "Buy a Manual For Your Car!"
Jeez.
Nothing posted says anything about removing timing belt cover. Don't jump to conclusions. Its just not the rocket science you are making it out to be. Posted was:
This assumes your shop manual has pictures. If not, then get the Honda manual which includes many pictures and other information that third party shop manuals abbreviate. Third party shop manuals are usually abbreviated copies of the automaker's original manual.
There is no mystery about rotating the crankshaft. Did you ever replace a tire? Turn crankshaft clockwise - as if restoring nuts that hold new tire to vehicle. Its really no different than turning a screw. You are making a trivial 'rotation' into a major campaign.
Each post assumes you were looking at those shop manual pictures. One picture even shows the crankshaft being manually rotated with a wrench. Without those pictures, you cannot appreciate all that was posted.
Start by separating cover from plastic timing chain cover - the semicircular round part of valve cover on your right (left side of car).
This assumes your shop manual has pictures. If not, then get the Honda manual which includes many pictures and other information that third party shop manuals abbreviate. Third party shop manuals are usually abbreviated copies of the automaker's original manual.
There is no mystery about rotating the crankshaft. Did you ever replace a tire? Turn crankshaft clockwise - as if restoring nuts that hold new tire to vehicle. Its really no different than turning a screw. You are making a trivial 'rotation' into a major campaign.
Each post assumes you were looking at those shop manual pictures. One picture even shows the crankshaft being manually rotated with a wrench. Without those pictures, you cannot appreciate all that was posted.
