Torque on civic lower rear arm bolts?

Discussion in 'Civic' started by z, Jan 8, 2007.

  1. z

    z Guest

    Can't find my service manual since I moved; anybody got some figures
    for the torque on the bolts of the rear lower control arms on a 92
    Civic EX sedan?
     
    z, Jan 8, 2007
    #1
  2. z

    Tegger Guest


    The two on the compensator arm: 47 ft lbs each
    The two that hold the big center bushing: 47 ft lbs each
    Damper fork to lower arm: 40 ft lbs
    Lower arm to hub: 40 ft lbs
    Upper arm to trailing arm: 40 ft lbs
    Upper arm to body: 29 ft lbs
     
    Tegger, Jan 8, 2007
    #2
  3. z

    Tegger Guest


    The two on the compensator arm: 47 ft lbs each
    The two that hold the big center bushing: 47 ft lbs each
    Damper fork to lower arm: 40 ft lbs
    Lower arm to hub: 40 ft lbs
    Upper arm to trailing arm: 40 ft lbs
    Upper arm to body: 29 ft lbs
     
    Tegger, Jan 8, 2007
    #3
  4. z

    Tegger Guest



    One I missed:

    Lower arm inner-end to body: 40 ft lbs.
     
    Tegger, Jan 8, 2007
    #4
  5. z

    Tegger Guest



    One I missed:

    Lower arm inner-end to body: 40 ft lbs.
     
    Tegger, Jan 8, 2007
    #5
  6. z

    z Guest

    Thank you. That's not huge torques. I guess the potential removal
    problem is from them freezing to the sleeves inside the bushings, no?
    In which case, not having any bushings left might turn out to be a
    blessing.
     
    z, Jan 10, 2007
    #6
  7. z

    z Guest

    Thank you. That's not huge torques. I guess the potential removal
    problem is from them freezing to the sleeves inside the bushings, no?
    In which case, not having any bushings left might turn out to be a
    blessing.
     
    z, Jan 10, 2007
    #7
  8. z

    Tegger Guest



    The problem is the sleeves themselves, which you've still got. If the
    bolt's rusted to the sleeve, you can't withdraw the bolt so the arm can
    be dropped from the body.

    A trick I discovered that works well: TIGHTEN the bolt before attempting
    to loosen it. Tighten maybe 1/16 or 1/8 turn. This will clamp the sleeve
    in place so the rust seal can be broken as the bolt is rotated. Work the
    bolt back and forth 1/8 turn a few times to break up the rust. After
    that the bolt should be able to be removed the normal way.
     
    Tegger, Jan 10, 2007
    #8
  9. z

    Tegger Guest



    The problem is the sleeves themselves, which you've still got. If the
    bolt's rusted to the sleeve, you can't withdraw the bolt so the arm can
    be dropped from the body.

    A trick I discovered that works well: TIGHTEN the bolt before attempting
    to loosen it. Tighten maybe 1/16 or 1/8 turn. This will clamp the sleeve
    in place so the rust seal can be broken as the bolt is rotated. Work the
    bolt back and forth 1/8 turn a few times to break up the rust. After
    that the bolt should be able to be removed the normal way.
     
    Tegger, Jan 10, 2007
    #9
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