Signs that side and front engine mounts are bad?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Tim, May 7, 2007.

  1. Tim

    Tim Guest

    I know my rear engine mount is bad from the way the engine vibrates
    when I am in reverse.

    As I replace the rear mount how do I know if the other mounts are also
    in need of change?

    Thanks,
    Tim

    91 Accord 173k
     
    Tim, May 7, 2007
    #1
  2. Before you condemn the mount... is this an automatic transmission vehicle?
    If so, the rear mount is hydraulic and the problem may be in the control
    system.

    Take a look at the mount. If there is a lever on the top of it and a vacuum
    tube, it is a hydraulic mount. That lever should be in one position - firm -
    most of the time and in the other - soft - at idle in gear. Often that lever
    gets stiff and oil may or may not fix it. In addition, be sure vacuum is
    applied when idling in gear. The hose or the valve that controls the mount
    would be suspect if the vacuum is absent or weak.

    Haynes says an expert is needed to troubleshoot the hydraulic mount system,
    but the real Honda manual available from helminc.com has the simple
    procedure.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, May 7, 2007
    #2
  3. Tim

    Tim Guest


    But I don't see a lever. Could that be just on other year models?

    I see the vacuum hose to the mount going into a round case, about the
    diameter of a half-dollar, at the base of the mount. There is
    virtually no vacuum present in the tube as it goes into the mount (at
    idle in gear.)

    Thanks Mike.
     
    Tim, May 7, 2007
    #3
  4. Tim

    Tim Guest

    I don't see a lever. Could that be just on other year models?

    I see the vacuum hose to the mount going into a round case, about the
    diameter of a half-dollar, at the base of the mount. There is
    virtually no vacuum present in the tube as it goes into the mount (at
    idle in gear.)


    Thanks Mike.
     
    Tim, May 7, 2007
    #4
  5. At least this leads you to places that are easier to see and get at :)

    The hose is easy enough to follow up to the control valve, located near the
    top of the firewall right in the center. The valve gets vacuum from that
    short hose that connects it to the intake plenum. The connector has only two
    pins, that should have something like 12 volts across them when the engine
    is idling. (I must have been wrong about having to be in gear. In addition,
    the troubleshooting flow chart requires the engine to be warmed up; the
    radiator fan runs at least twice.) The vacuum is shut off by the valve when
    the engine is above 700 or 750 rpm.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, May 8, 2007
    #5
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