Replacing front brake pads on '91 Accord.

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Bob, Sep 15, 2003.

  1. Bob

    Bob Guest

    Having never done brake pads on an Accord before, what should I watch
    out for, if anything? The rotors are true and in good shape, there is
    no pulsing or grooving, so I am leaving them alone. I am using OEM
    Honda Akebono pads, with the factory grease, and I do not intend to
    torque my wheel bolts over 80 lbs when putting them back on, so at
    least those things I am aware of.

    Thanks.
     
    Bob, Sep 15, 2003
    #1
  2. Bob

    N.E.Ohio Bob Guest

    If you aren't sure, do one side at a time, so you can check how it
    should look.
    There is one thing I've done about every year on my '92. Take a
    regular old hammer, and knock off the corrosion that forms at the outer
    edge of the rotor, front and back sides. Keep your hands and everything
    clean.
    Think about loosening the bleeder at the caliper when you push the
    piston back in. You will see how dirty the brake fluid is. May want to
    have the brake fluid changed too. bob too
     
    N.E.Ohio Bob, Sep 15, 2003
    #2
  3. Bob

    Jafir Elkurd Guest

    I'm pretty sure the OEM brand is nissin.
     
    Jafir Elkurd, Sep 16, 2003
    #3
  4. Bob

    Jafir Elkurd Guest

    Nope... I guess that's just on the coupe...

     
    Jafir Elkurd, Sep 16, 2003
    #4
  5. Bob

    Bob Guest

    That's right. Nissen on the coupe, Akebono on the sedan.

    Thanks for the tip on the brake fluid, and on knocking the corrosion
    off the rotors. I already considered doing that, glad to have some
    backup on my thoughts.

    Bob
     
    Bob, Sep 16, 2003
    #5
  6. Bob

    Bob Guest

    Well, this went superbly. The genuine Honda pads were well worth the
    ease of installation and peace of mind. I used a very simple one-man
    brake bleeder to flush all of the old fluid from the system, front and
    rear, adjusted the rear brakes while I was back there, and installed
    the new front pads, all in about 3.5 hours. If I had to do it again,
    I could probably do it in 2.

    The bleeder is a simple piece of tubing with a one-way valve at the
    end. I slipped it over the loosened screw and pushed the brake pedal
    to the floor, several times, until all of the fluid came out clear and
    fresh. Furthest wheel from the master cylinder first.

    I have seen a lot of debate on the groups on the worthiness of
    changing brake fluid. Should I/shouldn't I? All I have to say is, go
    spend $10 on a bleeder like this and it's a simple job. I have changed
    fluid before and it's always been a two-man job, and a hassle. "OK."
    "Ok what"? "Push". "You sure?" "PUSH"!" "OK, let up." "I already did."
    "Damn".

    Just keep the master cylinder pretty full during the whole process to
    avoid sucking air.
     
    Bob, Sep 18, 2003
    #6
  7. Bob

    N.E.Ohio Bob Guest

    Where'd ya get it? bob too
     
    N.E.Ohio Bob, Sep 18, 2003
    #7
  8. Bob

    Bob Guest

    I think my Dad picked it up at NAPA.

     
    Bob, Sep 19, 2003
    #8
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