Replaced rear wheel bearing on Integra

[Tegger]

My left rear was making noise, so I replaced it tonight.

After almost 17 years and 300K miles, the amount of rust under there was horrendous.

The 32mm spindle nut came off in maybe two seconds with my electric impact wrench. That wrench has so far not met its match; it has removed every bolt asked of it, no matter how tight or rusted.

The bearing and hub (one unit) came off with no trouble at all, but it was the splash shield that gave all the grief. It's held on by four 10mm bolts, exactly the same bolts that hold the parking brake cover in place.

These bolts' heads were corroded to the point that they were round. I had to Dremel them to some semblance of hexagonality, and ended up getting them out by hammering a 9mm socket over top of the Dremeled hexes.

Three of the 10mm bolts are in blind holes, and came off without issue. Unfortunately, one bolt is in a through hole. This one resisted all efforts at removal and had to be drilled out, and the hole retapped.

I then had to do lots of sculptor-type hammering and chipping on the trailing arm flange, which was very bumpy with rust. Sanding finished it off.

I was going to take more photos, but I just wanted to rip through the job and only took these four. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/new_rr_wheel_bearing/

It looks so pretty now, I hate to drive it anywhere.

 

[jim beam]

My left rear was making noise, so I replaced it tonight.

After almost 17 years and 300K miles, the amount of rust under there was horrendous.

The 32mm spindle nut came off in maybe two seconds with my electric impact wrench. That wrench has so far not met its match; it has removed every bolt asked of it, no matter how tight or rusted.

The bearing and hub (one unit) came off with no trouble at all, but it was the splash shield that gave all the grief. It's held on by four 10mm bolts, exactly the same bolts that hold the parking brake cover in place.

These bolts' heads were corroded to the point that they were round. I had to Dremel them to some semblance of hexagonality, and ended up getting them out by hammering a 9mm socket over top of the Dremeled hexes.

Three of the 10mm bolts are in blind holes, and came off without issue. Unfortunately, one bolt is in a through hole. This one resisted all efforts at removal and had to be drilled out, and the hole retapped.

I then had to do lots of sculptor-type hammering and chipping on the trailing arm flange, which was very bumpy with rust. Sanding finished it off.

I was going to take more photos, but I just wanted to rip through the job and only took these four. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/new_rr_wheel_bearing/

It looks so pretty now, I hate to drive it anywhere.

what did the axle stub look like? - that's the important bit.

 

[motsco_]

My left rear was making noise, so I replaced it tonight.

After almost 17 years and 300K miles, the amount of rust under there was
horrendous.

 

[Tegger]

Where did you get all the parts? You're in Toronto area, right?

'Curly'

I'm a long drive outside that.

All the parts came from an Acura dealer, and ran me about $225 plus tax.
The parts included:
Hub/bearing assembly (about $200)
Stake nut
Dust cover
Splash shield
4 bolts

 

[Tegger]

what did the axle stub look like? - that's the important bit.

The stub looked brand-new once I cleaned off the accumulated grease. The grease looked like rust at first, but wasn't. You can see that grease in the picture, on the inside of the bearing. The inner bearing race does not turn, but is trapped firmly between the big washer, stake nut (134 ft/lbs) and the rear face of the stub. This means the grease simply accumulated in the tiny gap between hub and race. A surprising amount of grease had escaped the bearing.

I believe there to be rust inside the bearing (that's how my front bearings both failed), but I'd need to pay somebody to press the unit apart so I can see. Don't want to spend the money for that right now.

They've changed the weather seal style on the new one's bearing. The old one has a protruding lip that rides in a groove surrounding the stub. The new one does not have this lip, just an enhanced sort of seal that's flush with the bearng's face.

Now I wish I'd taken the time to take more pictures. What with all the rust and drilling I had to deal with at the time, pictures seemed like too much trouble. It was getting late and I needed the car for the morning.

 

[M.A. Stewart]

The stub looked brand-new once I cleaned off the accumulated grease. The grease looked like rust at first, but wasn't. You can see that grease in the picture, on the inside of the bearing. The inner bearing race does not turn, but is trapped firmly between the big washer, stake nut (134 ft/lbs) and the rear face of the stub. This means the grease simply accumulated in the tiny gap between hub and race. A surprising amount of grease had escaped the bearing.

I believe there to be rust inside the bearing (that's how my front bearings both failed), but I'd need to pay somebody to press the unit apart so I can see. Don't want to spend the money for that right now.

If you are not re-using the hub or bearings... just pound the bearing out with a hammer and drift. Knock the seals out with a hammer and chisle, to look at the balls etc.. With a big vise and a big hammer, you can 'bust' the bearing open. Always think saftey when pounding.

 

[Tegger]

(M.A. Stewart) wrote in

If you are not re-using the hub or bearings... just pound the bearing out with a hammer and drift. Knock the seals out with a hammer and chisle, to look at the balls etc.. With a big vise and a big hammer, you can 'bust' the bearing open. Always think saftey when pounding.

I usually think saftey, especially when spelling isn't occupying my thinking.

 

[Tegger]

(M.A. Stewart) wrote in

Aren't you at Carleton University in Ottawa?

How come your spelling is so bad? Were you an "affirmative action" appointee?

Are you aiming to be a government worker or something? They're not too smart, you know. Powerful, but not intelligent. However, intelligence isn't important so long as you have power, so...

 

[M.A. Stewart]

(M.A. Stewart) wrote in

I usually think saftey,

i new that>>> it was a general comet for the kids who have never bustted open a buring> i have bad esite (myopia... per the context of human eyesight, literal) and would hate to have some kids hit with a flyin" chunk O'steal< in the eyball> those burings are made with some hard and brittle steal>

 

[M.A. Stewart]

(M.A. Stewart) wrote in

Aren't you at Carleton University in Ottawa?

No. But it's a common misconception of people (especially those who appear to be fixated on spelling/typo mistakes... i'm just kidding!) world wide, who think FreeNet.Carleton is part of the University, and that the members of the Freenet are somehow associated with the University. NCF (National Capital Freenet) only uses the University's computer system, and it's pipes to the Internet.

Some of the members of the National Capital Freenet are all over the world. Some of them Telnet in, like me. You know Telnet. That old and slow (like your car... I'm just kidding!) Internet system, which still works well (like your car).

How come your spelling is so bad?

I answered that in the other my other response... and my optic nerve gave me a bad headache when I re-read it... damn transpositions, et al..

Were you an "affirmative action"
appointee?

Non.

Now you're getting political! Get back on your bearings (I'm just kidding!)... people want to know more of your observations and conclusions (re your high mileage rear wheel bearings). Well I assume they do... maybe it's just me.

Are you aiming to be a government worker or something?

Non. Je ne parle pas francais... entre autres (et al.).

They're not too
smart, you know.

I would disagree a little bit. There are a few extremely bright people in the government. It's the system... but waddya gonna do.

Powerful, but not intelligent. However, intelligence isn't important so long as you have power, so...

[I end with an antique cliche... hey, isn't that a french in word there, and its missing the proper accent, damn english keyboard.]

"FIGHT THE POWER MAN... FIGHT THE POWER!!"

 

[Grumpy AuContraire]

My left rear was making noise, so I replaced it tonight.

After almost 17 years and 300K miles, the amount of rust under there was horrendous.

The 32mm spindle nut came off in maybe two seconds with my electric impact wrench. That wrench has so far not met its match; it has removed every bolt asked of it, no matter how tight or rusted.

The bearing and hub (one unit) came off with no trouble at all, but it was the splash shield that gave all the grief. It's held on by four 10mm bolts, exactly the same bolts that hold the parking brake cover in place.

These bolts' heads were corroded to the point that they were round. I had to Dremel them to some semblance of hexagonality, and ended up getting them out by hammering a 9mm socket over top of the Dremeled hexes.

Three of the 10mm bolts are in blind holes, and came off without issue. Unfortunately, one bolt is in a through hole. This one resisted all efforts at removal and had to be drilled out, and the hole retapped.

I then had to do lots of sculptor-type hammering and chipping on the trailing arm flange, which was very bumpy with rust. Sanding finished it off.

I was going to take more photos, but I just wanted to rip through the job and only took these four. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/new_rr_wheel_bearing/

It looks so pretty now, I hate to drive it anywhere.

I have to commend you drive to keep, (Well, let's face it), a rolling rust bucket on the road. I just hope that the structural integrity of the body merits all that effort. My old '76 Civic rusted out from under me at 160K back in the mid 1980's. Mechanically, it was nearly perfect!

<snif>

JT

(Who will hopefully never have to return to the rust belt)

 

[Tegger]

I have to commend you drive to keep, (Well, let's face it), a rolling rust bucket on the road. I just hope that the structural integrity of the body merits all that effort.

Me too. There are parts of the body I only get to inspect at greatly dilated intervals, like the windshield pinchweld. I just hope those are OK.

Everything I CAN see is fine, with no rust. Or if there is any, I catch it in time to get rid of it before it becomes irreversible.

My old '76 Civic rusted out from
under me at 160K back in the mid 1980's. Mechanically, it was nearly perfect!

The '70s were bad for rust for just about everybody, especially Honda.

<snif>

JT

(Who will hopefully never have to return to the rust belt)

I wish I didn't have to live here.

Consumer Reports just now has an issue out on how to keep your car going more than 200K miles. They illustrate the article with some anecdotes from people with examples of high-mileage vehicles. I noticed all of them are from low-rust areas.

I almost want to write to CR and point out that living in the Northeast makes 200K miles difficult to attain for the simple reason of rust. They don't mention rust anywhere.

 

[Grumpy AuContraire]

Me too. There are parts of the body I only get to inspect at greatly dilated intervals, like the windshield pinchweld. I just hope those are OK.

Everything I CAN see is fine, with no rust. Or if there is any, I catch it in time to get rid of it before it becomes irreversible.

The '70s were bad for rust for just about everybody, especially Honda.

I wish I didn't have to live here.

Consumer Reports just now has an issue out on how to keep your car going more than 200K miles. They illustrate the article with some anecdotes from people with examples of high-mileage vehicles. I noticed all of them are from low-rust areas.

I almost want to write to CR and point out that living in the Northeast makes 200K miles difficult to attain for the simple reason of rust. They don't mention rust anywhere.

My discover that my ol' Honda was no longer safe to drive is when I could bend by hand the brackets that held the rear suspension together.

I quickly retired the car and bought a $300 Gremlin that lasted over five years but the mileage (mpg) sucked compared to the Honda. That ol' AMC 258 2bbl in line six really had great performance though..

JT