Replace the coil or the whole distributor?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by hutchtoo, Sep 3, 2005.

  1. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    Still working on the non-starting problem with my 1994 Honda Civic EX. Would
    appreciate opinions as to whether I should replace the coil or the whole
    distributor....

    The resistance between terminals makes it look like I have a bad coil:

    (1) Check that the primary winding resistance between terminals A and B is
    0.6-0.8 ohms.
    RESULT: Mine floats between .001 and .400 ohms depending on where I put the
    leads. This is way BELOW the spec.

    (2) Check that the secondary winding resistance between terminals A and the
    coil tower is 12,800-19,200 ohms.
    RESULT: Mine floats around 15K-16K. This looks OK.

    COMPLICATIONS: the screws on the terminals and distributor rotor are badly
    corroded. I got metal shavings all over the place extracting the screws.
    Also subjected the distributor to some physical abuse getting the rotor
    screw out.

    ---> Should I just replace the coil ($85), or play it safe and pay up for a
    new distributor ($180)?

    Would appreciate any thoughts based on past experience... tx.
     
    hutchtoo, Sep 3, 2005
    #1
  2. hutchtoo

    Elle Guest

    Will the new distributor be OEM? If so, from whom are you buying it? Is it
    used or new? If used, how many miles?

    Two years ago my 91 Civic LX's coil died, but complicating this in the
    preceding months had been a stripped rotor set screw. The rotor kept coming
    off, leaving me stranded. Stupid dealer didn't figure it out. Per someone's
    advice here, I drilled a hole through the distributor shaft and rotor and
    used a cotter pin to affix the new rotor. Seemed to work great. Then the
    coil problems began, though at the time, neither the independent shop nor I
    knew the coil was bad. It insisted the problem was my cotter-pin revision to
    the rotor-shaft assembly. So they sell me a new distributor, with a new
    shaft, etc., and the newest rotor now affixed again with a new set screw. A
    week later the car dies again (though I was seeing problems as soon as I
    drove it out the shop's door). Now they say the coil died. So I had them
    replace the coil. They also convinced me to replace the ignitor, too, since
    they claimed a failing coil can adversely affect the ignitor. Having had
    previous bad experience with the ignitor, and not feeling very good aboutthe
    shop at this point, I bought the ignitor but decided to install it myself.

    After all this, I felt ripped off, because it seemed I didn't need a new
    distributor housing. However, after reading here over the years, I know that
    the distributor housing does age; the bearing starts to fail; the threads on
    the shaft for the rotor set screw do fail. A new distributor housing was
    probably a good idea about that time, anyway.

    If you can get an OEM distributor housing and new coil all for $180, I'd go
    this way.

    You should check ebay for its listings on OEM distributor housings. There
    are some for 94 Civics there now, but you'll want to examine the ad closely.
    E.g. is the distributor OEM? Brand new? (I'd welcome the input of anyone who
    has bought a Honda distributor via Ebay.)

    I would not buy non-OEM distributor parts.

    The distributor (and its subcomponents: rotor set screw; ignitor; coil;
    bearing) are the Achilles Heel of circa early 1990s Hondas. Fortunately, if
    you know what to look for, you can deal with the distributor problems as
    they crop up. My 91 Civic has had no problems for 2.5 years now, though I
    watch it like a hawk.
     
    Elle, Sep 3, 2005
    #2
  3. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    This is a rusty car I'll be replacing within a year. Would you STILL insist
    on OEM parts? I have an autozone down the street that has a distributor for
    substantially less than the cheapest OEM options....
     
    hutchtoo, Sep 4, 2005
    #3
  4. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    So when you buy a new distributor, do you get the whole shebang? i.e. does a
    distributor housing include the new coil and ignitor too?

    For example, see the price difference (source: San Leandro Honda)

    30100-P08-006 DISTRIBUTOR ASSY. (TD-42U) (TEC) $459.49
    30105-P08-006 HOUSING, DISTRIBUTOR $274.16
     
    hutchtoo, Sep 4, 2005
    #4
  5. hutchtoo

    Elle Guest

    I've thought about it a lot. If you're keeping it only a year, I think it's
    just a toss-up as to which direction you take. In other words, if you use
    non-OEM parts, I wouldn't count on it lasting a year. But it might.

    Do you have any interest in using Ebay (and so you can wait as much as a
    week for the part to arrive)? There's a company called "Distributor King"
    selling distributors there, and it has an impressive looking warranty. Just
    do a search at www.ebay.com for {distributor civic}. Distributor King's
    distributors include a new ignitor, cap, rotor, everything. See
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-92-95-Honda-Civic-1-5L-N-VTEC-Ignition-Di
    stributor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33690QQitemZ7995718758QQrdZ1

    I've never used them, but under your conditions, and based on my experience,
    I'd consider them.

    You could also just buy a new OEM coil (about $80 from www.slhonda.com), and
    roll the dice with the old distributor.

    You might need a new ignitor. Have you tried some diagnostics on it?
     
    Elle, Sep 4, 2005
    #5
  6. hutchtoo

    Elle Guest

    Not necessarily, so you're right to ask. You especially now want to ask what
    Autozone is offering you for $180 (if you have not already). Just the
    housing (that's my bet)? Or the housing with a new coil? Or the housing with
    a new ignitor and coil? I suspect

    See my previous post for mention of a dealer on Ebay that sells the whole
    shebang and is something on which I, for one, under your conditions, would
    gamble. (But all your options are gambles!)
    I am pretty sure the above is the whole shebang: Housing, coil, ignitor,
    etc.
    The housing by itself will not have the coil nor ignitor.
     
    Elle, Sep 4, 2005
    #6
  7. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    Yep, it's a beater and I drive it about 50 miles a week to get to my train
    station, that's it :)

    Funny you should mention Distributor King, I was just looking at their
    listings and 100% feedback, looks credible. Canadian outfit. I just don't
    have time to wait for shpping with my commute I need to fix it myself this
    weekend or throw in the towel and have it towed on Tues -- which is why
    Autozone is my easiest option.

    I haven't looked at the ignitor yet. Was having some trouble finding the
    test appropriate for a 94 civic
    http://tinyurl.com/ajuuy

    Thanks for the input.
     
    hutchtoo, Sep 4, 2005
    #7
  8. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    OK then, if Autozone has the whole pkg for $180 I'll probably do it
    tomorrow, easy enough to find out at the counter.

    I respect the experience of the group and the strong reco for OEM parts.
    However, for a low mileage beater* this is in large part a cost decision
    while I wait to upgrade to a late 90s or early 00s Accord within the year.

    * also rusty, in sore need of body work, great for a winter/city commuting
    car when you WANT to have nothing to lose ;)
     
    hutchtoo, Sep 4, 2005
    #8
  9. hutchtoo

    Elle Guest


    Do you know if the ignitor has ever been replaced?

    Based on my experience, an early 1990s Civic that suddenly refuses to turn
    over at all under any conditions is most likely to have a failed ignitor.

    Coils often fail slowly, allowing the car to run sometimes, with erratic RPM
    at idle, and being very temperature dependent. If you've seen none of this,
    I'd be checking the ignitor.

    Try the 1990-1994 Honda Concerto manual for checking the ignitor, coil, etc.
    at
    http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/ConcertoManual/index.html . Click on
    "electrical," then "distributor." The third page gives the ignitor test. The
    12th page gives the coil test. Good drawings.

    Have you eliminated the main relay as being the main problem? Did you get a
    new distributor cap? New ignition wires? I'm really not sure where you're
    at, based on your other posts, and I don't want to say something that would
    be inappropriate if, for example, you haven't changed the distributor cap.

    Hang in there. I suspect there's life in this car yet, unless, say, it
    really has been very poorly maintained for years...
     
    Elle, Sep 4, 2005
    #9
  10. hutchtoo

    hutchtoo Guest

    It had a non-start incident once, about 2 months ago.
    The coils are my top suspect. I wonder if the Park/Neutral revving I saw
    recently is the same as erratic RPMs.
    Yes, it clicks 3 times.
    Yes, that was the first thing I replaced last week.
    Hondas are fine cars, 12 good years so far....
     
    hutchtoo, Sep 4, 2005
    #10
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