Removing Crankshaft bolt

What is the proper way to hold the crankshaft from turning,while removing
the crankshaft bolt on an 89 Prelude?

 

I have tried the Impact gun with 150 psi and no luck. the problem is holding
the crankshaft from turning.

 

Me too.....then I took it to my fav shop. 3/4" gun...buuuu-ring!
Done like dinner.

Make sure you don't have too many disconnects in your line, they restrict
airflow a bunch. 150 at the pump doesn't mean 150 at the gun.

 

This topic comes up often. I have pasted a copy of thread from March 03:


"I had the same problem on a 94 last month. If it has the hex shaped recess
in
the damper then there is a holder tool available from the auto specialty
online stores. My 94 has the holes around the edge type. Someone in this
newsgroup (see below) suggested I make a holder tool from a couple foot long
pipe with two bolts inserted. I found a piece of angle iron and inserted the

hardened bolts in it, it worked really well. The bolt loosens
counterclockwise so if you let the holder tool swing up against the lower
control arm it shouldn't damage anything. It is tightened to 130 ft/lbs. so
you will need a hefty breaker bar and decent access. I worked throungh the
drivers side wheel well with the car elevated on jack stands.

Here is the thread on this idea:

Another person used a rachet as a holder, this idea did not work for me:
http://www.crxsi.com/resources/repair/change_timing_belt/

Some others suggested removing the starter motor to insert a large srewdriver

into the teeth of the flywheel, I was afraid of breaking flywheel teeth.

I have also read an impact wrench with 500-1000 ft/lb capability can break it

free. I have a cheapy that couldn't do it.

Good luck!

 

its kinda crude, but in a jam once, I took a long power bar and a
socket, put the socket on the crank bolt, the powerpar then reached
out to the ground. then turned the car over with the starter.
but beware, this has all the makings of a disaster.

 

Actually, that's one of the techniques to use.

Of course, you shouldn't have motor mounts that might be stressed too
much (depends on their design) since the engine will torque a bit away
from the frame, especially if the crankshaft bolt won't give! This
technique didn't work for me though (the rubber motor mount broke and
so the engine didn't hold fast).

I ended up calling up one of those guys who go out and change
18-wheeler truck tires (mobile tire guys, who usually have a serious
air tool compressor on their trucks)...I supplied the correct 1/2"
drive metric socket and he loosened it for me.

Good luck,

John D.

 

When you say "one of the techniques to use" Who's techniques?Should the bar
me able to swing and gain momentum,or placed tight to the floor before
engaging starter?Aside from motor mount damage,What else can happen?