Rear trailing arm - parking brake cable question

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by TeGGer®, Apr 11, 2005.

  1. TeGGer®

    TeGGer® Guest

    If I was to remove the rear trailing arm on the 1991 Integra, would I need
    to disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer in order to remove
    it from the control arm?

    Or will that big rubber donut somehow pass through its hole in the trailing
    arm once it's oriented just the right way?

    (I'm doing planning for bushing replacement some time this summer.)
     
    TeGGer®, Apr 11, 2005
    #1
  2. TeGGer®

    jim beam Guest

    yes, you can service it ok without the need to disconnect. the donut
    only /looks/ like it's all the way through!
     
    jim beam, Apr 11, 2005
    #2
  3. TeGGer®

    TeGGer® Guest



    I'm planning to take the arm to a garage to have them press a new bushing
    in. Still OK?
     
    TeGGer®, Apr 11, 2005
    #3
  4. TeGGer®

    jim beam Guest

    unless there's too much rust or any cracking, sure, it's fine. first
    time i replaced bushings, i stripped the arm right down. last time
    though, i left it nearly complete & the shop managed it just fine. may
    want to remove the compensator arm though. loosening the bolt with the
    arm out it real tricky - advise you loosen while still on the vehicle,
    then remove once you have the arm out. and make sure the compensator's
    attached before trying to refit the trailing arm - the bolt has no
    clearance to be refitted in situ. oh, and make sure the shop knows what
    they're doing. pretty important they understand the orientation of the
    new bushing when it goes in. sounds obvious but...
     
    jim beam, Apr 11, 2005
    #4
  5. TeGGer®

    TeGGer® Guest


    Thanks for the tips. I did wonder about the orientation of the main
    bushing, seeing as how it will need to sit untwisted when the car is at its
    normal ride height.
     
    TeGGer®, Apr 11, 2005
    #5
  6. TeGGer®

    WaterWatcher Guest

    On a '90 Civic, you would need to remove the hub to disconnect the parking
    brake, wouldn't you? I'm planning to take the arm to a machine shop with a
    minimum of dissasembly. Looks like you remove brake drum, dust cover,
    spindle nut and hub, disconnect the parking brake, unbolt the compensator,
    upper and lower controll arms, remove bolts at trailing arm bushing, and
    that should just about do it. Or am I missing something? Is there an easier
    way?

    Thanks,
    WW
     
    WaterWatcher, Apr 12, 2005
    #6
  7. TeGGer®

    jim beam Guest

    don't need to disassemble the whole hub, just the drum & brake stuff.
    that releases the cable and you can feed it back through the hole in the
    backing plate. other than that, yes, disconnect the brake cable from
    the arm, the hydraulic lines [use hose pinches to avoid having to bleed
    the whole system again] and the nuts-n-bolts, & you're good to go.

    there's one more tip on removing the rear lower control arm bolt - with
    the vehicle up on stands, jack up the contol arm so it's in the position
    it would be if it were wheeled & on the road. that way, the bolt comes
    out easily. if it's down in the unweighted position, it's real hard to
    get out. do the reverse for reassembly.
     
    jim beam, Apr 12, 2005
    #7
  8. TeGGer®

    WaterWatcher Guest

    OK, so you need to take the brake shoes off to get to where parking brake is
    attached? Also, what do you use to pinch the hoses? Vice grips, or is
    there some special tool?

    Thanks for your help,
    WW
     
    WaterWatcher, Apr 13, 2005
    #8
  9. TeGGer®

    jim beam Guest

    i like item KD 3438 on page http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdspec17.html
    i like item KD 3438

    on page http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdspec17.html
     
    jim beam, Apr 13, 2005
    #9
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