Performance intake module chip?

  • Thread starter Thread starter amsjsj
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amsjsj

I have been looking on ebay, they have a Performance intake module chip,
What this mod does is modify your ECU with a Timing Advacement resistor.
Anybody ever heard of this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456802125&cat
egory=33597. Please check this out guys and tell me what you guys think.
Theres many more like these mods, take a look and see what they say they,are
they worth it?
 
Also I just looked this up NEW-CHIP TECHNOLOGIES NEWEST PERFORMANCE MODULE.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456574381&cat
egory=33597
This one looks alittle better, any opions?
 
I posted a message similar to this one and no one replied to it. (Subject
"IAT Sensor Mod") I guess no one here knows anything about them. Some
help, huh? ;-) Anyway, the only thing I can tell you is that you don't
have to pay $4.00 or whatever it is on eBay. Go to Radio Shack and you can
buy 5 resistors for 99¢. What you need to do is look in a Haynes manual for
the "normal" resistance that comes from your IAT sensor and then get some
resistors that are slightly above and slightly below. (Because I still
don't know if increasing or decreasing resistance is what improves
performance, but for $2.00, what the hell) All you have to do bend the
resistor into a U shape, unplug the IAT socket, and put one end in each
socket of the connector. Just make sure you insert it firmly so it doesn't
fall out. Then, just secure the end in some way so that the resistor
doesn't touch any metal on the engine. You do not have to touch the actual
IAT sensor. Just leave it as it is...unplugged in its place.

Example. I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX 1.5L DPFI. "Normal" IAT resistance
is between 1k-4k Ohms. I've been using a 5.2k ohm resistor in mine, and it
seems to have beefed it up just a little. However, if you put too much on
it, the Check Engine light will come on and the computer will ignore
whatever resistor is in there and just guess, which means no performance
increase. I have yet to try a lower-than-1k-ohm resistor yet to see of that
definitely makes the fuel/air ratio leaner. My assumption is that the 5.2k
ohm is making it run a little richer. Be advised, however, that in
extremely cold areas where temp is almost always below freezing, this mod
will HURT your performance. Only use this on days where temp is at or above
32º F, or 0º C. On colder days, leave IAT sensor plugged up.

Jon
 
hey man I really apreciate it, also i seen a reply saying he used 1.8k
resistance. Also will this wokr with a 96 honda cvic lx?
 
Yes. It will work on any car with fuel injection, regardless of make or
model.

Jonathan
 
I have been looking on ebay, they have a Performance intake module chip,
What this mod does is modify your ECU with a Timing Advacement resistor.
Anybody ever heard of this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456802125&cat
egory=33597. Please check this out guys and tell me what you guys think.
Theres many more like these mods, take a look and see what they say they,are
they worth it?
Click to expand...

I have never tried such a chip but I know of at least one person that
races his civic and he placed such a chip in his Civic and said that it
really helped. I suggest that you keep any parts that you remove. If you
live in a state that requires you to pass a pollution test or whatever it
is called in your state--you should remove the "Permormance intake module
chip" and reinstall any parts that you removed that were on the vehicle
when you purchased it. This means it should pass the pollution test.
 
Hi,

I have 1995 Civic LX SOHC D15B7 and I am using 3.3k ohms and works great. It
cost me 79 cents.

Good luck.

Matt
 
well i tried using a 5.6 k ohm. And my engine light came on, then used a 1 k
ohm which is in the range but i didnt notice a difference. How do i pick
one? Does someone what more resistance would do or less resistance would do?
Dont you have to stay in the range of the specified range? I guess 5.6k was
to much maybe.
 
On a Honda fuel injection system there is no MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor,
instead the mass air flow is calculated based on manifold absolute
pressure (as indicated by the MAP sensor) and intake air temperature (as
indicated by the IAT sensor). The IAT has DEcreasing resistance for
INcreasing temperature. Cold air is denser than warm air, and this trick
works by making the ECU believe the temperature is lower than it really
is. It therefore calculates that the mass air flow is higher than it
really is and thus injects a little more fuel than it normally would.

If you simply replace the IAT sensor with a fixed resistor your engine
will run fine at a limited range of temperatures, and be just awful
outside that temperature band. If you instead insert something like 1
kohm in series with the IAT sensor you should get a more drivable engine
over a wide temperature range.

Another thing is that under steady state conditions the ECU closes the
loop based on remaining O2 in the exhaust. If it were smart enough, it
would calibrate out the additional resistance over time and you would be
back to stock performance. Don't think the ECU does this, though.
 
UPDATE ON MOD, I just put a 3.9k 1/2watt resistor on my bros 96 civic and
it did make a difference. But with my car it set off the engine light. But i
got an 3.3k resistor but 1/4 watt and no light, Is the watts making a
difference or not?
 
amsjsj said:
UPDATE ON MOD, I just put a 3.9k 1/2watt resistor on my bros 96 civic
and it did make a difference. But with my car it set off the engine
light. But i got an 3.3k resistor but 1/4 watt and no light, Is the
watts making a difference or not?
Click to expand...

3.6K is 300 ohms less than a 3.9K resistor.
I'd rather install a real cold air intake,it's worth the money,and I
believe you will get much more power.

Watt rating does not matter in this application.
 
I already have an cold air intake with obx headers and 2 1/4 inch piping for
exhaust.
 
Is that ¼ watt or ½ watt?

Jonathan

MattA said:
Hi,

I have 1995 Civic LX SOHC D15B7 and I am using 3.3k ohms and works great. It
cost me 79 cents.

Good luck.

Matt


much
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456574381&cat
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456802125&cat
Click to expand...
 
I have used a 3.3K Ohm ¼ watt and I got more-or-less the same performance
just as if I left my IAT plugged up. But with a 5.2K Ohm ½ watt, I can tell
a slight improvement. Only downside is that the Check Engine light comes
on sometimes. Here is an idea that someone gave me...don't know how good it
would be, but I'll throw it out there and let y'all leave feedback on it:

Unplug original IAT, but don't remove it from it's spot. Buy a new IAT,
lengthen the wires on the connector, mount it right behind front grill where
it will be exposed to maximum airflow from outside, and not be affected by
heat from the engine. (On my 1990 Civic LX the IAT is in the intake
manifold about 3 inches away from the block) Just leave "old" IAT
unused...don't need an open hole in your intake manifold. ;-)

Jon
 
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