One more lesson ....Battery lost Power.

A glass going up and down in automatic windows door consumes a lots
of battery. I've the problem of the glass that can't going up and I spent
about 30 minutes try to fix the problem. I sort of push up and down the
glass switch that control by the motor. Well after 30 min I tried to start
the car but the battery has lost power. I did not know that the glass
motor consumed a lots of battery. Well i have had to charge battery. it gots
start. This is no easy fix since the cable moving up and down connect o
cable need to be exam. I can't take this part. So don't play around with
Glass motor switch, it consumes battery power fast.

 

So now you know--start the engine if you have to play around with the
windows for a long time. If you listen to the difference in motor sound
with the engine running and with the engine off, you'll notice that the
motor sounds a lot stronger (or at least more robust) with the engine
running. This is a good clue that it's drawing a lot of juice, and is
happier when powered by the alternator. You can also turn on your
interior light and see what happens when you hit the window switch. My
guess would be that it will dim significantly with the engine off.

Anyway, 30 mins. is a very long time.

 

I suspect that your battery is just old and has lost a lot,
maybe most, of it's capacity. You might want to start pricing
a replacement before your current battery dies for keeps.
Modern cars, and light trucks, have such "good" ignition
systems that most will start with what would have been a
"dead" battery 30 years ago.
In the "Good old days", batteries failed in the dead of
winter. A large V8 engine, hard to crank with a an old Kettering
points based ignition system, required a hefty batttery to spin
the motor and produce a hot enough spark to start the engine.
Modern engines are smaller, easier to spin and the ignition
system will produce a nice hot spark with as little as 8V!
I recently fought a fried CPU and failed main PGM-FI relay.
I can start both my 1991 Civic and my 1985 Celica with a 24amp
hour gell-cell, in cold, 20 degrees F, weather.
That little battery won't even spin a V8 on a hot July day!
Modern batteries most often fail during extreme heat. The battery
was sick the preceeding winter, but the engine would start. A common
warning of impending battery failure is the radio losses the memory
assignments. The lights will also vary in brightness with engine
speed as the battery approaches EOL. (End Of Life)
One of the simple, 3 LED, "battery checkers" that plug into your
cigerette lighter are usefull. A better test is a load box with
a voltmeter. Put a 1/2 ohm load across a 13.6V battery and you draw
26+Amps. Monitor the battery voltage before the load is applied and
keep the load in place for 30 to 60 seconds. If the battery voltage
drops to 11V or lower, you are on borrowed time. This load will get
HOT! (13.6V^2)/.5 Ohms= 369.92Watts!
The starter on my Civic only draws 30+ amps.
Harbor Frieght often has battery test load boxes for under 20$.
Most parts places can check your battery for free.
I like to check my battery every oil change, and before I go
on "long" trips. I much preferr to change a weak battery then to
mess with a dead one on the road or in rain or snow.
Wwwhile I am a TV engineer, most of my automotive experience
has been with my hobby with radio. I hold an Extra Class ticket
and have fought automotive electric ssytems for 35 years.
Compared to generators common in the 1960s' we have it made
with modern electronics. No points to replace. Alternators last a
long time. Generators always gave poor performance. Everything old
was not great. I know that when the auto's CPU/ECM dies it is a major
pain. But most cars rust out before the engine or ECM fail.
Terry

 

Thanks, Chief. Maybe next time spend more wampum for heap big battery.

JM