newbie Honda CR-V questions

Discussion in 'CR-V' started by limehand, Mar 1, 2008.

  1. limehand

    limehand Guest

    Hello Honda People!

    I have almost bought a 1999 CR-V and was wondering if I could start my
    education here with a few questions?( But if I should go and read a CR-
    V 101 somewhere maybe someone could point me there?)

    The car was originally registered in Canada. Is it the same car that
    was imported into the states or were the specs different in each
    country?

    What would be the best book to get to learn about DIY maintenance
    valve clearances mechanical info etc? Preferably with big pictures.

    Ive read about the valve lash problem that Honda wont admit to and was
    wondering if an '99 engine that did have its belt changed at
    160,000kms would have had the valves checked at the same time? I have
    no records past 34,000 kms should I be worried? It drives well no
    misfires or anything but Im no expert on this subject...It has around
    182.000kms on it now.

    A condition of purchase is that the car gets a "100 point check out"
    from a Honda dealer before I buy it We pay for this. Would a
    compression test tell the whole story on the valves enough to say yes
    or no to buying? Or should I just get the valves checked in addition
    to the "100 point check"? OR is there some other way of achieving some
    peace of mind about this?

    The car is perfect for my wife and I apart from this Anything else I
    should be worried about?


    Thanks for so far

    Michael
     
    limehand, Mar 1, 2008
    #1
  2. limehand

    M.M. Guest

    http://www.hondasuv.com/

    and/or

    http://www.crvownersclub.com/
     
    M.M., Mar 1, 2008
    #2
  3. limehand

    motsco_ Guest

    -------------------------------

    When you strike the deal, insist they are going to adjust the valves as
    part of your purchase. Then make sure they adjust them to the loose side
    of the specs.

    Since it's new to you, you'll want to change the tranny fluid at least
    once, and the Dual Pump Fluid in the rear diff, if it's an AWD. Take it
    for the 'Parking Lot Test' and if you hear a scraping / growling noise
    when you turn a tight left-hand circle at low speed, insist they have to
    change the dual Pump Fluid for free too. The owner's manual and all the
    keys should also come with it.

    Read through this thread, then sign in and SEARCH for others.

    http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=31423&highlight=parking+test

    The '99 is a good choice, more HP and you get the bonus of DRL and ABS
    for sure, since it's from Canada, right?

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Mar 1, 2008
    #3
  4. limehand

    limehand Guest

    Thanks Curly...

    Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
    a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)

    I am learning fast I think but its great to think there are moe
    knowledgable people i can ask. Especially when I get to building the
    next engine with a V-TEC head...;^)

    Michael
     
    limehand, Mar 2, 2008
    #4
  5. limehand

    motsco_ Guest

    ---------------------

    Daytime Running Lights.

    I think 90% of the Canadian CR-V's have ABS. I've only seen a couple
    without, and I know one was a US import.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Mar 3, 2008
    #5
  6. limehand

    limehand Guest


    Thanks Curly
    Im just recovering from the cost of replacing the weatherstripping on
    this potential purchase $960.00 CAD Im wondering if I should it myself
    or something But wonder if I have to take out the door panels?

    Have posted on this but maybe you can help with this?

    cheers

    Michael
     
    limehand, Mar 3, 2008
    #6
  7. limehand

    motsco_ Guest

    ----------------------------

    Please tell us Who (told you) and Why you think you need your
    weatherstripping replaced. I've never heard of such a crock . . .

    Something to do with windows that go UP slower than DOWN? Too much road
    noise? What possible excuse?

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Mar 4, 2008
    #7
  8. limehand

    limehand Guest

    "such a crock"......?

    OK... I'm the one that doesn't know anything... I almost forgot there for
    a second.

    When the windows are powered down from being fully up (closed)
    specifically the drivers window and its raining on this window (and
    the other windows at the same time of course) the raindrops dont get
    wiped off by the rubber stripping that is fitted horizontally on the
    top of the door (not the very top of the door above the window but the
    "top" where you can lean your arm on when sitting in the car with the
    window fully down of course.

    Now my assumption is that when this water goes in between the glass of
    the window and the plastic/rubber piece (I call this piece weather
    stripping) it continues down into the door and from there well I just
    dont know where it goes but if the inside of the door (the metal
    parts) gets wet and doesnt dry off it will rust and this might make a
    hole in the door which of course will make me unhappy.

    No one told me about this. I just sort of worked it out by myself.

    cheers curly

    Michael
     
    limehand, Mar 4, 2008
    #8
  9. limehand

    motsco_ Guest

    ------------------------

    Hmmmmm. I don't think any of my 8 CR-V windows 'squeegee' themselves
    perfectly when going down.. There are three or four drain holes provided
    at the bottom of the door, and a vinyl shield inside to keep the
    moisture away from the controls and inner door panel. I've asked myself
    whether I could adjust the trim that holds the 'squeegee' so it would
    wipe better. I don't think it matters much since it NEVER comes up on
    the newsgroups. www.slhondaparts.com has your parts diagrams. Your
    owner's manual is at
    https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/RJAAI001_OMANUAL.asp

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Mar 4, 2008
    #9
  10. limehand

    limehand Guest

    I had a look at the two URL's you provided curly and neither added
    more to what I know (not much) and this is the following.

    The original strip did in fact come into contact with the glass and
    therefore couldnt help but squeegee (good term) the glass (in my
    opinion). I got this info from looking at a CR-V on the road side here
    in Toronto it was quite tight and bent up a bit against the glass
    quite different to my prospective car the strip on which seems to be
    bowed out leaving a gap of three sixteenths I reckon in the middle.
    Maybe this was caused by UV ? They seem brittle.

    Thanks for the info about where the water goes by the way.

    I called a couple of Honda dealers in Toronto and the part which is a
    single piece is around $114.00 each. I then did a search and found a
    couple of places where they were $26.00 or so, not so bad but I dont
    know if I have to take off the panel inside the doors or just dig it
    out from the outside and click a new one in (im hoping). One of the
    parts girls said I had to take off the mirror on the front doors but
    who knows? I get the impression these dealership parts people are all
    in training still.
    I am an old VW person that is sick of the unreliability of VWs these
    days. And really like the CR-V when driving it. Its really perfect for
    us. I just to make IT perfect 8)

    Michael
     
    limehand, Mar 4, 2008
    #10
  11. limehand

    motsco_ Guest

    --------------------

    If your prospective car has been 'unlocked' by a tow truck operator
    (locksmith) a few times, that could explain why the trim is bowed out.
    They jam wedges in there to get the 'slim Jim' down inside. My wife's is
    that way more than mine, probably for the same reason. You could walk
    into a body shop and ask the most experienced looking guy about it . . .

    I know what you're saying about V Dub. I owned a couple and ditched them
    as soon as I started hanging on a newsgroup! Volvo was the same, due to
    the (same) electrics.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Mar 4, 2008
    #11
  12. Looks like the outside molding strips for each of the four windows cost
    about $42 each. This is for the outside molding only which is all you should
    have to replace. See this URL for a 1999 CRV. Best to drill down to the
    appropriate page for you particular model though. Sunlight is the enemy of
    rubber and plastic.

    http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?hidSwitch=&hidIrn
    o=&catcgry1=CR-V&catcgry2=1999&catcgry3=5DR+EX&catcgry4=LM&catcgry5=MOLDING&
    vinsrch=no&ListAll=&prdrefno=&act=&count=0&quantity=0

    You will need a few tools such as a door panel tool, a hook or pick, and
    screwdrivers to get the door panel off. Taking the inside door panel off and
    rolling the window down (do that before you disconnect the window motor wire
    harness) is the only way I have ever done this job. The metal clips on the
    molding just press into small rectangular holes in the door. Pry the old one
    out and then press the new one in. Best to have a service manual to get the
    panel off. Some tricky hidden stuff that must be removed on the door handle
    and sometimes the speaker mount under the speaker grill. The manual shows
    you the location of each of the plastic clips so you know where to place the
    panel tool to pop them loose. The manual will tell you how to do it
    properly. You can find manuals for the CRV on bit torrent or I got one on
    Ebay for $3.00 on CD. They are just homemade scans (1300 pages worth)
    probably just downloaded from bit torrent and then burned onto CD. The Body
    section is where the door panel info is located.

    I have had some success with "restoring" the pliability of degraded rubber
    with a liquid compound used by Laser and Copier technicians that use it to
    restore the tackiness of paper pickup rollers. It is call "Rubber
    Rejuvenator" or "Rubber Roller Cleaner" and can be purchased from

    http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/

    I have also used a hot air gun to "unfold" rubber window moldings that got
    caught up on the glass when it was going down and folded over and stayed
    folded over when the window went back up. If they stay in that position very
    long they will "set" the fold and only the most severe treatment will
    restore them. After I heat the rubber I place a piece of wood on each side
    of the rubber strip and keep it clamped in the unfolded position until it
    cools and sets. Usually works.



    3/4/08 1:473/4/08 1:
    pickleman
    (please remove yourpants)--
     
    delbert brecht, Mar 4, 2008
    #12
  13. limehand

    limehand Guest

    THANKS for the bittorrent lead MUCH appreciated. I spoke with seller
    of car about this and his offer was I get the parts and he installs
    for nothing BUT he did say it could be done from outside the car
    without taking the panel off which presumably is a nightmare and a
    thief of much time?

    I just dont want to do it myself at this time of year or wait for July
    It is getting on my nerves thinking about all this. I DO believe you
    but MUST the panel come off? He said its an hour job. Can the panel
    come off and go back on in one hour? (by a newbie) Do you reckon?

    thanks pickleman

    cheers
    Michael
     
    limehand, Mar 5, 2008
    #13
  14. I can't find in the service manual where they tell you a recommended
    procedure on how to do this. I have only done it with the door panel off. It
    isn't that big a job and you only have to learn on your first one the rest
    are the same. I would do one of the rear doors first and when the panel is
    off look at the set up and make a judgment as to the feasibility of doing it
    without removing the door panel. I could have a door panel off in less than
    15 minutes and then back together in 10. If you pry use a soft cloth to
    prevent paint damage and do not pry u p or down on glass.


    3/5/08 2:093/5/08 2:
    --
    Pickleman

    Please remove "yourpants" to reply
    1988 Civic DX retired with 234K due to extensive rust and gas tank problems
    1998 Civic HX MT with 138K
    2000 CRV EX MT with 98K
     
    delbert brecht, Mar 6, 2008
    #14
  15. limehand

    limehand Guest

    Hello pickleman

    I have been a busy boy and have had a chat with a friendly dealership
    autobody person here in Toronto and he tells me the pieces we are
    talking about can be removed and replaced from outside the doors using
    a putty knife to get the clips undone after taking off the mirror and
    a couple of screws.
    and he says drop round and I will show you...8) Soooo The BIG question
    is did Honda manufacture a car that allowed rain to run through the
    doors and put stripping on the door that was never intended to
    actually clean the winow of rain (thus allowing the driver to see
    through the window) or not? I would be disappointed to hear this is
    standard on Honda CR-Vs

    My neXt question will be Does anyone know if there was a diesel engine
    made for the CR-V UK Europena market I think there was The next
    question is of course has anyone ever put in a UK/Euro diesel into a
    Can/American CR-V?

    Michael
     
    limehand, Mar 8, 2008
    #15
  16. 3/7/08 20:393/7/08 20:
    You are lucky to have a relationship with this person. If it can be done
    from the outside without munging up the paint or anything and without
    removing the door panel then take the person up on their offer and replace
    these strips.
    Most cars are designed with flow through doors. Plastic protects the innards
    and rain just flows through and out the bottom of the doors. Try cleaning
    the glass with Rain-X and visibility will be adequate even in rainy weather.
    Best to put this question up in a separate thread if you want a response to
    it.

    --
    Pickleman

    Please remove "yourpants" to reply
    1988 Civic DX retired with 234K due to extensive rust and gas tank problems
    1998 Civic HX MT with 138K
    2000 CRV EX MT with 98K
     
    delbert brecht, Mar 8, 2008
    #16
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