[QUOTE="Dave"] [QUOTE] [QUOTE="jim"] On 09/28/2010 06:56 PM, JD wrote: Dillon Pyron wrote: Thus spake JD<> : I have a choice at the local dealership between a new or used Honda Civic Coupe LX. The three new ones have less than 10 miles but the used one only has 7,700 miles. The used one is about </body>,000 less than the new ones. All four are gun metal gray with light gray interiors. The only difference is one is used. The dealership tells me the used one was purchased by one of their old salesmen that lives about 30 miles away so most of the 7,700 miles were what they're calling highway miles. His round trip to work was 60 miles a day. He sold it because his family got bigger and he purchased a Honda Fit. I don't have access to the Honda user's manual so I'm not familiar with their suggested break in routine. My concern is most of the miles during the break in period were probably highway miles. Do I save the </body>,000 and take the used one or buy a new one and break it in my way? I generally follow the manufacturer's break in recommendations but push the car a little harder since I drive fast. All my new cars have been broken in this way and I've never had an engine problem. Erh, really, what kind of "break in". Modern engines don't really need one. A rebuilt, yes. But not a new one. Same with pads and disks (but not drums). So they say. I don't really believe that. I like to break them in, just in case. The Coupe comes with drums on the rear but I've never been too concerned with breaking those in. My first new car was a 1968 Pontiac Firebird so I've broken new cars before. 8-) puhleeze. if you think a 68 pontiac has even remotely the same engineering quality or materials quality as a 2010 civic, you need your head testing. significantly higher precision and materials put the civic in a whole different league. just do what it says in the owners manual and forget about it. Should the dealership be offering the used one for a lower price? I have about 21 weeks on the used car (likely closer to 18 or 19). Kelley shows private party to be 500, dealer is K. This is Austin. I'm will to bet you can get the used price down, and the same with the new. You're call. So far, they're not really giving me any great price breaks considering the new and used are 2010 models and they're starting to get 2011 models in. A new car loses about 15% to 20% when one drives it off the lot and I'd like to see that and more reflected in the price of the used one. dude, for crying out loud, move on. this dealer is pulling your chain. each time you go back or call, they know they've got you on the hook. all they're waiting to do now is gaffe you in the back of the head and drag you in the boat, helpless, breathless, bleeding and brain-dead. then they're going to go out and get laid in vegas with all the money you've over-paid for that piece of crap. here is how you buy a car: 1. test drive with different dealers and decide exactly what you want. color[s], model, options, EVERYTHING. make a detailed written list. DO NOT LET YOURSELF GET PERSUADED TO BUY AT THIS STAGE. be nice, but firm. 2. call, fax or email that list to dealers, stating VERY CLEARLY that you're shopping on price. be nice, but firm. 3. see what they come back with, and choose the best deal. do not let they "bait and switch" with the bullshit where once you've driven out there, "we made a mistake, it's actually $x,xxx more than we said". be nice but firm on the quote they gave you. if they won't budge, just turn around and walk out. 4. make sure you contact dealers farther away than you might normally consider. for instance, in the san francisco bay area where i live, civic dealers are all above msrp, and consistent within about 0. can you say "price collusion"? however, if you go about 2 hours away, prices start to become a lot more flexible. especially sacramento where their economy is in the toilet. los angeles is another place large enough where dealers actually compete for business so again, prices aren't too bad. but the point is, DO YOUR HOMEWORK. if the price is right, you should even consider going out of state. here's another tip if you're considering paying cash: don't. tell the dealer you're going to finance the vehicle. make sure there is either no or only a small repayment cost, then just pay off the loan once you've done the purchase. dealers get commission on finance and they sometimes roll that into the price of what they're prepared to negotiate if they think they're going to get that extra income. now stop farting about and get yourself sorted. [/QUOTE] How more helpful can you be? I live in the middle of west Texas. How much am I going to save going "out of state" as you so eloquently put it. Give me a percentage. The MSRP of the Coupe is ,500. How much can I save? Give me a dollar amount, not a bunch of Jim Beam fueled bullshit. Oh, did I mention? Jim Beam is the world's top-selling bourbon whiskey. Do you get a discount by posting here with their name? I know how to play their game. Post something I can use. I'm not going to California to save a few bucks. Be nice, not firm? Twice you used that. Is that some San Fran thing? You're tripping. Go away. And by the way, I don't have the fucking owner's manual since I haven't bought the fucking car so I don't know what it says about the break in. Sorry. And I don't really care. My point with the old Firebird, shit, why am I wasting my time with the world's top-selling bourbon whiskey poster? I'm not wasting any more of my time. [/QUOTE] If you have read here for a few years, you'd know that I've called Beam everything but a child of god; he's no buddy of mine. Everything he said here is good general advice. It could be that some of it doesn't apply to your specific condition, but if you don't understand what you're reading, you're wasting your time. And ours. Sober up, use Beam's advice, and buy a car. RFT!!! Dave Kelsen[/QUOTE] "general advice", enough said.
