New Or Used 2010 Civic Coupe..

I have a choice at the local dealership between a new or used Honda
Civic Coupe LX. The three new ones have less than 10 miles but the used
one only has 7,700 miles. The used one is about $1,000 less than the new
ones. All four are gun metal gray with light gray interiors. The only
difference is one is used.

The dealership tells me the used one was purchased by one of their old
salesmen that lives about 30 miles away so most of the 7,700 miles were
what they're calling highway miles. His round trip to work was 60 miles
a day. He sold it because his family got bigger and he purchased a Honda
Fit.

I don't have access to the Honda user's manual so I'm not familiar with
their suggested break in routine. My concern is most of the miles during
the break in period were probably highway miles.

Do I save the $1,000 and take the used one or buy a new one and break it
in my way? I generally follow the manufacturer's break in
recommendations but push the car a little harder since I drive fast. All
my new cars have been broken in this way and I've never had an engine
problem.

Should the dealership be offering the used one for a lower price?

 

Is it Honda certified with the extended warranty?

 

From what I can tell, if I want the extended warranty then it will cost
an extra $1,500. They offer it on their web page without the extended
warranty but offer it online through another web page with the warranty
for a higher price. The price difference is $1,500. The used one with
the extended warranty cost more than the new ones. It's only an extra
year warranty.

Seems a bit pricey to me. It's basically a new car with 7,700 miles. Is
the extra year warranty worth the extra money? Seems like I'd be better
off with a new one or the used one without the extended warranty?

I should look into this. If they will sell it at their web page price
with the extended warranty, without the $1,500 price increase, then the
used one might be better? Unless the first owner didn't take care of it.

My preference would be a car that doesn't need any warranty repairs.

 

Buy the new one. Try to get another few hundred off, don't forget it's
end of the model year time, and they are holding 3 identical 2010 grey
ones. Also, don't necessarily believe the "salesman bought it" story.
Sounds like an update to "little old lady who just drove it to church"
story. Don't forget, car dealerships will say whatever you want to
hear. You will never know what that car went through the first 7700
miles. How many curbs hit, how many potholes, accidents, replaced
windshields, etc. And consider this, would you buy a new car and let me
use it for a year and put 7700 miles on it for $1000? If so send your
address and I'll bring cash.

 

I can't believe a used Civic is only $1000 cheaper than a new one. Me
thinks someone is yankin yer chain.

 

On 09/27/2010 06:43 AM, Al wrote:

no kidding.

 

The used Civic may come with the Honda certified warranty. I haven't
talked to the dealership about this.

 

Good points. I thought a new car lost 15% to 20% of it's value when it
was driven off the lot. The used one may come with the Honda certified
warranty. One web page says it has it, one web page says it doesn't.

I've seen the car fax for the used one and it doesn't have any negative
information.

 

Even with the extended warranty, I sure would be going for new.

 

I have a 2008 Honda Civic LX Couple and love it......except for one
thing.

It's a bitch to get in and out of. I'm not a big man, but I am 67 and
feel it. To get into the car, I have to recline the back of the seat,
and literally fall into the car ass first, then straighten the back.
It's fun to do but not pleasant. Getting out is also a contortion
act. I have to recline the seat and haul myself out with a chorus of
accompanying grunts.

Oh yeah, once inside, there is no way you can reach the seatbelt
without either moving the seat back or reclining it, unless, of
course, you have 36 inch arms.

I wish you luck with whichever car you choose and hope very much you
aren't arthiritic : )

Arthur

 

Erh, really, what kind of "break in". Modern engines don't really
need one. A rebuilt, yes. But not a new one. Same with pads and
disks (but not drums).

I have about 21 weeks on the used car (likely closer to 18 or 19).

Kelley shows private party to be $18500, dealer is $20K. This is
Austin.

I'm will to bet you can get the used price down, and the same with the
new. You're call.
--

- dillon I am not invalid

Toby (Tri-Umph That's the Sweet Truth)
March 1998 - June 2010
What a dog. What a dog!

 

Dude..

Ouch! I'm 58 and I feel it but I had no problem entering or exiting the
Coupe when I did the test drives. I've got a few more test drives to go
so I'll pay particular attention to entry and exit because I plan to
have this car when I'm 76.

Seat belts weren't a problem either but I'll look at those next test drive.

What I did notice is it's easier to enter and exit than my 92 Civic 2
door hatch which sits really low to the ground.

 

So they say. I don't really believe that. I like to break them in, just
in case. The Coupe comes with drums on the rear but I've never been too
concerned with breaking those in. My first new car was a 1968 Pontiac
Firebird so I've broken new cars before.

So far, they're not really giving me any great price breaks considering
the new and used are 2010 models and they're starting to get 2011 models
in. A new car loses about 15% to 20% when one drives it off the lot and
I'd like to see that and more reflected in the price of the used one.

 

I'm trying to get them to let me keep the used one for a couple of days
so I can check it out. If they don't make me a great deal and/or I find
something I don't like about the used one then I'll see what they can do
with the new ones. The ball appears to be in my court? They've got four
of these, new models are arriving daily. Make me a deal!

 

puhleeze. if you think a 68 pontiac has even remotely the same
engineering quality or materials quality as a 2010 civic, you need your
head testing. significantly higher precision and materials put the
civic in a whole different league. just do what it says in the owners
manual and forget about it.

dude, for crying out loud, move on. this dealer is pulling your chain.
each time you go back or call, they know they've got you on the hook.
all they're waiting to do now is gaffe you in the back of the head and
drag you in the boat, helpless, breathless, bleeding and brain-dead.
then they're going to go out and get laid in vegas with all the money
you've over-paid for that piece of crap.

here is how you buy a car:

1. test drive with different dealers and decide exactly what you want.
color, model, options, EVERYTHING. make a detailed written list. DO
NOT LET YOURSELF GET PERSUADED TO BUY AT THIS STAGE. be nice, but firm.

2. call, fax or email that list to dealers, stating VERY CLEARLY that
you're shopping on price. be nice, but firm.

3. see what they come back with, and choose the best deal. do not let
they "bait and switch" with the bullshit where once you've driven out
there, "we made a mistake, it's actually $x,xxx more than we said". be
nice but firm on the quote they gave you. if they won't budge, just
turn around and walk out.

4. make sure you contact dealers farther away than you might normally
consider. for instance, in the san francisco bay area where i live,
civic dealers are all above msrp, and consistent within about $100. can
you say "price collusion"? however, if you go about 2 hours away,
prices start to become a lot more flexible. especially sacramento where
their economy is in the toilet. los angeles is another place large
enough where dealers actually compete for business so again, prices
aren't too bad. but the point is, DO YOUR HOMEWORK. if the price is
right, you should even consider going out of state.

here's another tip if you're considering paying cash: don't. tell the
dealer you're going to finance the vehicle. make sure there is either
no or only a small repayment cost, then just pay off the loan once
you've done the purchase. dealers get commission on finance and they
sometimes roll that into the price of what they're prepared to negotiate
if they think they're going to get that extra income.

now stop farting about and get yourself sorted.

 

that's ridiculous. i'd charge you double, just on principle.

 

How more helpful can you be? I live in the middle of west Texas. How
much am I going to save going "out of state" as you so eloquently put
it. Give me a percentage. The MSRP of the Coupe is $18,500. How much can
I save? Give me a dollar amount, not a bunch of Jim Beam fueled bullshit.

Oh, did I mention? Jim Beam is the world's top-selling bourbon whiskey.
Do you get a discount by posting here with their name?

I know how to play their game. Post something I can use. I'm not going
to California to save a few bucks.

Be nice, not firm? Twice you used that. Is that some San Fran thing?
You're tripping. Go away.

And by the way, I don't have the fucking owner's manual since I haven't
bought the fucking car so I don't know what it says about the break in.
Sorry. And I don't really care. My point with the old Firebird, shit,
why am I wasting my time with the world's top-selling bourbon whiskey
poster?

I'm not wasting any more of my time.

 

Thank God I'm not buying the car from a whiskey-named poster. If I have
the opportunity to keep it for a couple of days to get a feel for it,
how is that ridiculous? Better yet, don't even waste my time or anyone's
time in this newsgroup by replying. Have drink on me, Jim Beam. Cheers!

Jim Beam is the world's top-selling bourbon whiskey.

 

On 09/28/2010 09:30 PM, JD wrote:

so that's why you posted more of your myopic stupidity at 9:35 PM?

idiot.

 

If you have read here for a few years, you'd know that I've called Beam
everything but a child of god; he's no buddy of mine. Everything he
said here is good general advice. It could be that some of it doesn't
apply to your specific condition, but if you don't understand what
you're reading, you're wasting your time. And ours. Sober up, use
Beam's advice, and buy a car.


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen