Marvel Mystery Oil

I've heard good things about Marvel Mystery Oil. Just curious how it
works since you can put it in the oil and gasoline tanks and does it
work well still with newer cars, I have 05 Civic. Also, what's the best
time to put it in like early/middle/late life of oil for oil. And for
gasoline empty tank then fill, or after full tank?

 

The very best time to put Marvel Mystery Oil in your car is...NEVER.

Total waste of money. It will do less for you than timely oil changes.

 

Back in the day, you could buy a Marvel Mystery Oil reservoir that
attached to the carburetor and slowly dripped the stuff into the gas,
or so my father told me. I used it 20 years ago as a gas additive in my
Chevy small block. As far as I could tell, it did me no good. Not sure
I'd want to subject my Honda fuel injectors to this stuff.

If you feel the need to add something to your gas add a bottle of
Chevron's Techron every now and again. AFAIK that stuff won't hurt
anything and probably does some good.

I'd never consider adding MMO to my oil because I don't know what it
would do to the viscosity or how it would interact with the oil's
additives. TeGGeR's right, clean oil is good oil.

 

At least one of the major car companies - DC I think sez in the owners
manual that using crank case additives will void the warranty. Back in
the days of lose engines - a increase in viscosity may have been a good
thing - not today - will probably impede lubrication. Any modern oil
that meets all of the current requirements will be fine - just change
it and the filter and do it regularly.

It never ceases to amaze me when I walk past the snake oil section of
auto parts stores - people still buy that stuff.

 

SEAFOAM! or LUCAS OILS FUEL TREATMENT! You can buy them both anywhere.
Gas tank only though. I think that the only thing you should add to
your oil is oil, and that's just if it's low. Mobil 1 is always my
suggestion and change it at 3000 or sooner. As for MMO, I wouldn't
want to trust something that is able to be used in the engine and in
the fuel. Plus, you have a Honda!!! You don't have to do too much to
those things and they'll still run forever, so don't fix what isn't
broken. Run good gas, keep up on maintenance, and that's about it.
See ya. Matt

 

Start saving up money... to buy a new catalytic converter.

The whole concept of marvel oil is a little bogus. Gasoline already
has a lot of oily components in it, and that is what lubes the upper
cylinders well enough for engines to last 300,000+ miles.

Now check out Brazil, which insisted on developing ethanol production
to replace gasoline use. Result is, engines don't last at all. The
alcohol has no lube qualities, and the engine is toast.

 

The only thing I used Marvel Mystery Oil for when I was twisting wrenches
for a living, was to put a small amount in the inlets of my air tools, then
blowing air through them before putting them away at night... I wouldn't put
it inside an engine, not now, with all of the electronics and sensors, for
sure...
..

 

wrote in

You are full of bovine fecal matter. Gasoline is a SOLVENT, NOT a
lubricant. It washes motor oils off the bore walls.

Gasoline does have a touch of light machine oil in it, but that's for the
injectors, not the bores.

 

They still make that -- shades of JC Whitney and the ooo ga horn

 

Ah-OOH-gah, you mean.

 

Actually, I think MMO would probably decrease the viscosity of the
oil, and I wouldn't want to do that either. MMO is an old product. If
it had any extraordinary benefits as a crankcase additive, its
components would have been incorporated into motor oils long ago.

That said, I have seen it recommended for various general and special
lubrication purposes. It is probably a very fine light-weight,
general purpose lubricating oil, but it is neither marvelous or
mysterious.

 

And when was this day of "lose" engines?

 

I don't know. Gasoline may not be as good a lubricant as oil but I
can see how it would be a lot better than ethanol. Not saying that
he's right, but it isn't implausible IMO.

Do Brazilian liquor burners really go through engines like a drunken
sailor? I hear they are still selling well and by now everyone would
know it if they were self destructing. I couldn't find anything on
the web about it either.

 

Hey, don't knock JC Whitney. They've saved my butt more than once. An
example was replacing the aluminized batt insulation in a '69 Dodge
van engine box (the one between the seats) I once owned. I looked
everywhere. Dodge dealers, Autoshops, boat centers, RV centers,
custom shops, you name it. After 2 weeks I was at my wits end. My
buddy suggested I look in JC Whitney . Sure enough, twice as much as
I needed for $30, including shipping. JC Whitney is alright.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/StoreCatalogDisplay/c-10101/s-10101

nb

 

dont waste your money.

 

I would guess back in 70s and earlier. Tolerances on the parts going
into engines have gotten much tighter over the years. For some time I
worked in a bal bearing factory that made a number of parts for the
automotive companies. I can remember them pushing us to have much
tighter tolerances on the parts we supplied them. I suspect that's
continued over the years as it seems that today's engines are much
more efficient than engines from a few decades ago.

 

You are full of bovine fecal matter. Gasoline is a SOLVENT, NOT a

I specifically said UPPER CYLINDER WALLS. Sure, it would be better to
have some 10W30 up there, but it isn't really happening. Solvent,
lube, whatever. Don't get hung up on labels. Did you take organic
chemistry 30 years ago like I did? There's a lot of oily in gasoline,
and it isn't due to any additive.


My wife has two relatives doing an extended project in Brazil right
now, and they'll agree with me regarding engine longevity.

 

That is "Male Bovine Fecal Matter"

Sid

 

Hmmm... Some examples:
2003 Acura RSX crank journal to bearing clearance: .0007"-.0020"
1991 Honda B18A1 crank journal to bearing clearance: .0009"-.0020"
1975 Toyota 2T-C crank journal to bearing clearance: .0006"-.0039"
1956 Chevrolet six or V8 crank journal to bearing clearance: .0007"-.0028".

The tight tolerance is essentially the same from 1956 to 2003, but the
older engines were permitted to get a lot looser before being considered
out-of-spec. I'd suspect metallurgy is a lot better now, so they can afford
to specify tighter tolerances and still get adequate life out of the
engine.

Also, oils back in 1956 or 1975 were not what they are now. Sort of with
poyethylene, back then you had to make it thick to get the film strength.
Now they can do it by making the polymer chains longer and stronger. I
think that and metallurgy have more to do with the lightness of modern oils
than viscosity requirements.

 

Another couple I just found:
1970 Ford 302 V8 crank journal to bearing clearance: .0005"-.0024"
1970 Ford 250 six crank journal to bearing clearance: .0005"-.0022"


I'm not sure those old engines were much looser than modern ones.