Main Relay Replacement for Starting Problem '93 Accord

My '93 Accord occasionally refuses to start usually in hot weather. I
can usually get it going after waiting for a period of time and
several tries. After doing some research, the symptoms all point
toward a possible main relay problem.

Question: I noticed the clock was off by several hours. I know that a
disconnected or weak battery would cause this but the battery and
connections are fine. When I try to start it, the engine cranks
strongly, and I have not over cranked it and worn the battery down.
How could the starting problem be related to the clock being so far
off?

Thanks,

Rob

 

My '93 Accord occasionally refuses to start usually in hot weather. I

My '90 SM4 was meant for a cold climate & had many flaws ( so
starting esp when hot was difficult ) e.g. ( too many to list all ) ALB
uses nearly 40 amp = ½ of alternator 's maximum output @ high rpm :
even after I corrected / mitigated every flaw, ALB still uses too many
amps, so I disabled ALB, only then battery & spark plugs can get enough
amps. [ii] windows' motors' relay wasted amps, til bypassed [iii]
injectors' resistors wasted 19.3 watt, I replaced them with a buck
convertor & 5 inductors & 1 diode & 5 capacitors, only then can
injectors be cool enough to stay clean so engine starts faster & torquer
[iv] alternator had no cooling, I added cooling & got more amps [v]
doors & boot & key slot's bulbs wasted amps, til removed [vi] EGR &
air intake valve both wasted amps, til disabled. [vii] air intake heating all
disabled, to suit a warm climate. [viii] wiper motor's plastic cover
removed to let out hot air.
Only now my F20A starts very well, slow idle torque is 2x of original,
can idle stably ( w-o load ) @ just 550 rpm, on highway with coasting
( & nitrogen ) can go 18 km per litre of just RON95 !

 

Whoa, that was quite a mouthful!

 

Also his aluminum foil beanie shorted our the flux inverter.

 

That wasn't the orifice I was thinking of.

 

there's only one thing scarier than chea's ridiculous bullshit on this
topic - the fact that he might actually believe it.

 

| Whoa, that was quite a mouthful!
1 easy way to tell if injectors' nozzles are clogged, is to connect a
digital voltmeter to O2 sensor's output & see if voltage* is stable
during idling ( w-o load ) : if clogged, * will fluctuate between -.1
to +.5 v, if clean then +.19 to +.32 v .
Console should let users see this *, esp now when digital volt
meters are far cheaper than in '90.

 

Where on earth do you get this nonsense?

The oxygen sensor should flip-flop regularly between +0.1 and +0.9 volts.
Anything else means the sensor is bad.

And chances are good that a digial VOM will react far too slowly to
accurately display the flip-flops, which occur several times a second at
idle.

 

| Where on earth do you get this nonsense?
Oscilloscopes are costly & bulky, my readings are from a japan made OKII-28
meter & I think are the averages of voltages read within each report interval.
These readings make sense ; smaller fluctuation when nozzles are clean, &
lower reading during idle.

| The oxygen sensor should flip-flop regularly between +0.1 and +0.9 volts.
This is per www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm but my meter can report 1.32
v during just slight ( <¼ throttle ) acceleration.

| Anything else means the sensor is bad.
I doubt Carley's data applies to my O2 sensor. SM4 specs have no mention..

| a digial VOM will react far too slowly to accurately display the flip-flops.
Carley says a digital volt meter can do, only the transitions can't be seen.

 

You're reading it wrong, then. The unit cannot produce more than 1V.

Honda does not use any such thing.

Carley's data generally applies to Honda O2 sensors. All oxygen sensors
operate on the same basic principles.

The word "transitions" means the flip-flops between .1 and .9.

If you can't see the transitions, then you can't see what the sensor is
doing.