just how hard is it chg timing belt 99 accord?

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Mango, May 15, 2004.

  1. Mango

    Mango Guest

    Being reasonably mechanically inclined and not to take anything away from
    mechanics but it one has the proper tools, can this belt be replaced without
    a phd in auto mechanics? 4 cyl. air etc.

    thank you

    Mango, May 15, 2004
  2. Mango

    Deep Guest

    Not an easy task at all. My neighbor repairs cars and he charges $250 for
    labour to do this. It's a 4 to 5 hour job and that's if you know what you
    are doing! :)

    Deep, May 16, 2004
  3. Mango

    Caroline Guest

    I am prepping to change the timing belt by myself (for the first time) in a year
    or so on my 1991 Civic LX (152k miles right now). In addition to the archive for
    this group, several resources I have bookmarked for this job are:

    http://timingbelt.soben.com/ (specifically designed to help a person decide
    whether to do the job him/herself, for a circa 1994 Integra)



    These are generally for older Hondas. I'd skim these sites and then get at least
    a Chilton's manual for your 1999 Accord from the library and see if huge
    differences from the sites are indicated in the Chilton's. Then make a decision.

    Reports here indicate that a Helm manual is the very best for work on one's car.
    It's far more detailed than Chilton's or Haynes manuals. Around $65 at
    www.helminc.com or http://tinyurl.com/2c2tg , or try Ebay.

    Based on reading here, I'm pretty much sold on buying a "harmonic damper pulley
    puller" to ease the difficulty of getting off the crankshaft bolt. (Others will
    say they got away without buying the $50+ tool.) I don't know if this tool is
    appropriate for your Accord, but you might want to check. See for example


    Caroline, May 16, 2004
  4. Mango

    jim beam Guest

    why do you want to remove the crank pulley? once the belt is
    de-tensioned, it slides off the cam pulley easily, and then it comes off
    the crank pulley no problems.

    the /only/ thing that's a pita about the 91 is remembering to remove one
    of the l/h mounting bolts from underneath, not try freeing up the welded
    nut from on top. [speaks the voice of experience!]

    other than that, a bit of patience and the right research, which you
    seem to have done, you should be fine.

    good luck.
    jim beam, May 16, 2004
  5. Mango

    Caroline Guest


    Right now, I'm just going by (1) what the Chilton's manual says; and (2) what
    others have said about the biggest hurdles to changing the timing belt.

    The online instructions for timing belt replacement on a 1990-94 Honda Concertos
    at http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/ConcertoManual/62sk301/5-29.pdf are very similar
    to those in my Chilton's manual. Note that on page 2, step 9, the directions say
    to remove the crankshaft pulley.

    So I have not put my hands on all this. I do follow what you mean: In theory all
    it should take is for the tensioner to be loosened and the belt should slide
    off. (And I see that it sounds like you've done as much.) So I don't know why
    the manual says this. Yet many people have posted here in the past that the main
    hurdle in this job often (like all the time?) is getting the crankshaft pulley
    bolt loose. On my car at installation, the bolt is supposed to be torqued to 119
    ft-lbs. Others here have noted that, after operation for a few years, it
    tightens further (due to rust and heat cycling?). Speculation here has been that
    the break-free torque of the bolt sometimes exceeds 500 ft-lbs, IIRC. I gather
    this estimate is based on the air impact wrench rating people have used to get
    the thing off.

    So at this point I defer to others to explain why the crankshaft pulley bolt and
    crankshaft pulley must come off when changing the timing belt.

    I have put your other comments in my notes. Maybe I'll just throw a party I
    change the timing belt and invite all the newsgroup regulars as well as any
    newbies and lurkers over. :)
    Caroline, May 16, 2004
  6. Mango

    E. Meyer Guest

    I can't speak to the '91 specifically, but on the '95 Integra and the '96
    Odyssey, you have to take off the crank pulley to get the lower cover off in
    order to get to the belt.

    E. Meyer, May 17, 2004
  7. Mango

    jim beam Guest

    i lied! i swear i don't remember taking it off when i did my 89, but
    checking back in the helm manual, it seems like it's necessary to allow
    removal of the lower cover. senior moment obviously.

    i guess i was thinking about it not being essential to remove the pulley
    for timing. a lot of vehicles require removal of the pulley face so
    that timing marks on the toothed cog can be seen & alligned with marks
    on the belt, both for the cam & crank. this is particularly common with
    dual camshafts. this is not the case with the 91.

    wild goose chase. sorry.
    jim beam, May 17, 2004
  8. Mango

    Caroline Guest

    No problem.

    With someone else's hint, I looked at the drawing in my Chilton's and now get
    it. Like you say, that lower timing belt cover must come off to get access to
    the whole timing belt, and the cover can't come off unless one removes the
    crankshaft pulley, etc.
    Now with this I do have direct experience. I agree the timing on my 91 Civic's
    and many other (all?) Hondas is checked without removing the crankshaft pulley.

    The discussion got me deeper into the steps I'll be taking to do this in a
    couple of years. That's always helpful. :)
    Caroline, May 17, 2004
  9. Mango

    Eric Guest

    Based on reading here, I'm pretty much sold on buying a "harmonic damper
    By the way, save your money. That pulley holding tool won't work for a '91
    Civic. Only a '92 and above. Honda changed the design of the pulley. The
    '88-'91 models don't have the 50 mm hex opening in the pulley needed in
    order to use that tool.

    Note though that a pulley holding tool can be easily fabricated. For one
    suggestion, see the post at http://tinyurl.com/33r5n.

    Eric, May 17, 2004
  10. Mango

    Caroline Guest

    Okay, thanks.
    I read your post at this link but am not sure this is what I need. Or I am not
    following your description very well.

    From the Majestic parts site, The 1988 Civic LX manual trans. crankshaft pulley
    and my 1991 Civic LX manual trans's crankshaft pulley are the same. See
    http://tinyurl.com/23qjb and http://tinyurl.com/3dtb5 . Is this your crankshaft

    I did find a drawing of a crankshaft pulley bolt tool that might be "dead-on"
    for my 1991 Civic. It's the one for the 1991 Honda Concerto SOHC. I think the
    Concerto's 1.493 liter engine is identical to my Civic's 1.493 liter engine. For
    the tool, see:




    Does the tool above look anything like the tool you fabricated?

    Obviously I need to get another look at my car's crankshaft pulley bolt, figure
    out how this tool is going to work exactly, and keep researching this, though I
    think I'm making progress. The first time I inspected and turned this bolt was
    when I checked my valve clearance's a few months ago.
    Caroline, May 17, 2004
  11. Mango

    Eric Guest

    Yes, the pulleys are the same to the best of my knowledge.
    That's the factory tool. I believe it will need to be special ordered from
    a Honda dealership. It also has a price in the range of $200 if I remember
    It's similar. The tool I made uses two bolts which act as pins to go
    through the holes in the crankshaft pulley. The bolts are attached to a
    heavy iron bar. For this, I obtained a piece of scrap for free from an
    ornamental iron works shop. It's a section of top railing about 2 feet
    long. The bolts are inserted into the holes in the pulley and the bar
    prevents the engine from turning by swinging up against the suspension as
    the pulley bolt is loosened. The Honda tool only has one pin and uses their
    special socket to provide a second pin. If you make a tool, you may want to
    use high grade bolts, e.g., grade 8 or equivalent.

    Eric, May 17, 2004
  12. Mango

    Caroline Guest

    Thanks. Using your description, along with the photo and description at
    http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html , I think I have a much
    better picture of how your tool works.

    I appreciate your passing along the bolt hole dimensions. I'll try the bolts you
    suggest next time I'm under the car around June. I'm going to try making your
    tool or one a lot like it, first. For kicks, I'm wondering if I can squeeze a 2
    x 4 in there (in place of your 2-foot length of steel which gets two holes
    drilled in it, etc.) and if the wood can take the stress. I'll run some

    Worst case, sounds like I'll have to play around a bit to get the "home-made
    pulley holder tool" and 17 mm socket wrench with long breaker bar properly
    positioned. The guy at the site above says he did it with a 5-foot length of
    pipe over the breaker bar.

    I realize I can always try the air impact wrench route, too.
    Caroline, May 17, 2004
  13. Mango

    Eric Guest

    The pulley holder that I've made is somewhat similar in concept to the one
    pictured in that link. However, I have the bolts going through the bar.
    The bar is actually a shallow U shape that's flat on one side. The bolts
    protrude from the flat side which is the side that's put up against the
    crank pulley. I put nuts on the bolts on the back side of the pulley to
    help hold the bar to the pulley. In my prior post I recommended using 7/16"
    bolts since they were close to 12mm. However, I didn't have those around so
    I used 10x1.25x40mm bolts which protrude roughly 36mm from the flat side of
    the bar. The following rough sketches may give you a better picture (though
    they are not to scale).

    | _______ | | | <--3"--> | >
    End view |\___|___|___|___/| Side view |____|__________|________>
    | | | | | |
    | | | | | |
    | | | | | |
    Even if a wooden 2x4 will fit in the space available (which I doubt), I
    don't think it will take the stress without cracking. Though, if you do
    succeed with the 2x4 then I'm sure you'll post back to let us know.
    Drilling in steel is not that big of a deal, just make sure that you use a
    sharp center punch to mark your holes so your drill bit doesn't walk.
    I only needed a two foot long breaker bar to loosen my crank pulley bolt
    using the holder tool I made.
    Yes, that's always an option as well. In my area it's possible to rent a
    small air compressor from Home Depot for about $26/day though I don't know
    what they charge for a 1/2" drive impact gun. If you're in a hurry and know
    that you'll only need the compressor for a day or two, then this might be
    the way to go. However, if you need it for a longer period of time, then
    $26/day can add up pretty fast and it may be more economical to build a
    pulley holder.

    Eric, May 18, 2004
  14. Mango

    Caroline Guest

    I turned my left front wheel and removed part of the splash shield yesterday and
    studied the crankshaft pulley more closely. I likewise now am not optimistic
    about the 2 x 4 working. I took some measurements and did some crude
    calculations. They indicate that, if 500 ft-lbs of torque are required to break
    free the bolt, then the 2 x 4 is likely going to hit its maximum tensile
    strength (assumed around 1000 psi). No factor of safety built in, either. It's
    not something I recommend at this time unless one knows what to expect with such
    an experiment, proceeds with great caution, and has insurance.

    I'm keeping my eyes peeled for scrap iron with dimensions like you suggest.
    Maybe Home Depot sells bars of the stuff, worst case. I can swing a titanium
    drill bit and have cutting oil, of course.

    Alternatively, I'm thinking maybe it's not a big deal to do what the guy at the
    web site did: Just take a couple of very long, high strength bolts, insert them
    in two of the crankshaft pulley holes (one hole apart), and then take any old
    pipe, bar, whatever steel or iron scrap is laying around and maneuver the bar so
    the bolts push it against the car frame (or ground?) when one is turning the
    crankshaft pulley bolt CCW.
    Great! I happen to have a five-foot pipe that I think will work for me (a puny
    person), worst case.

    George M., Tegger, Curly, and some others gave me some advice on the impact gun
    earlier, so I think I'm set on this route.

    Thanks for the additional detail on your tool. I put it in my notes.
    Caroline, May 18, 2004
  15. Mango

    Eric Guest

    You likely won't need a titanium bit. A standard high-speed steel bit
    should work just fine. I happen to have a set of cobalt bits so that's what
    I used but it was over kill.
    Eric, May 18, 2004
  16. Mango

    motsco_ _ Guest


    Just keep the laws of physics in mind when using an air tool.
    'Something's gotta give' if the nut doesn't move, you'll (I'm joking)
    tear your arms off if you're a skinny chicken like me :) :)

    (having removed a few nuts by locking my arms under the bumper and
    'standing' horizontally, on the breaker bar)



    To REPLY: If there are a couple of underscores in my return address,
    you must remove them to reply directly . . . . . . Thanks.

    Regarding stage performances: When everyone else has finished playing,
    you should not play any notes you have left over. -
    motsco_ _, May 19, 2004
  17. Mango

    Chip Stein Guest

    have a decent impact on hand, i never use the holders. a 1990 timing
    belt may take 45 min. at most if you know what you are doing. A 1999
    accord 4cyl has so much more room it's rediculous.
    Chip Stein, May 19, 2004
  18. Mango

    Rich Gray Guest

    I've changed a few timing belts on Hondas and the best tool I've used is a
    chain wrench. I use an old a/c belt and wrap it around the pulley in the
    groove then the chain wrench on the belt and pulley. Then I attach a S hook
    to a foot long heavy duty chain and the another S hook on the toe hook. Then
    I put a breaker bar on and push it off with my feet. The belt protects the
    pulley from the bite of the chain wrench and the nut comes off pretty easy.
    I'll take some pictures this week so you can "see" what I mean.
    Rich Gray, Aug 24, 2005
  19. =================================

    On a '99 He probably needs the 50mm hex tool to hold the flywheel pulley
    steady. because there's a rubber harmonic damper built into the pulley,
    you can't safely clamp it from the outside (at least not on the Gen 1
    CR-V) They're easy to build (see Tegger's FAQ) or you can often get them
    on eBay.com

    'Curly Q. Links', Aug 24, 2005
  20. I bought one of these
    and it did a great job.

    Michael Pardee, Aug 24, 2005
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