Just bought a used Acura - 95K miles - Top 10 things to maintain ??

Just bought a used Acura for $6,300

1997 Acura CL 2.2
-Auto
-95K miles

I'm going to replace the timing belt and drive belts tomorrow. I am
also thinking about changing the following:

-Trans fluid
-Air filter
-Brake fluid
-ABS fluid
-Flush & replace coolant

Is all this necessary????


What else should I change or maintain?? What are the most important
things????
Thanks!

 

I think you're on the right track with what you have mentioned. I always
change the oil too, even if it doesn't look dirty, to make sure they've put
the right weight in there and used a good filter. All the others I do just
for my peace of mind. (Although I have questioned the validity of changing
the brake and ABS fluids -- and been told that they absorb water from the
air just like the others and they should be changed. I have no way to
dispute this claim so I guess it's up to you).
Make sure you put genuine Honda ATF in the transmission. Also, see about
getting the Trans fluid "flushed" instead of just changed. There have been
reports of other Acura's shifting poorly using other fluids. Hunt around
too -- apparently Honda sells fluid cheaper than Acura (for the same stuff!)
Hope this helps,
Enjoy your new ride!
MR

 

Sometimes when changing the t-belt, the water pump is also done too.

If you haven't had these looked at already...
-cv joints/boots
-injectors
-ignition stuff
-ignitor module

don't know if u have records from the seller, but those would help tell ya
for tune-up stuff.

 

Honda and Acura sell the same fluid, in the same bottle, with the same part
number, from the same computer system (basically... ), with the same
suggested list price. Any dealership, Honda or Acura can sell any part for
whatever they want. Where I live the closest Honda dealer used to mark up
all of it's parts at least 10% and some as high as 50%. The Honda/Acura
dealer just a few miles away sold at suggested list. Now that the market
has shifted a little, they have almost switched their practices with each
other.... the closer Honda dealer selling at list, and the Acura dealer
selling at a "matrix" price. You also have to be careful about the "online"
parts places and the discount they give.... sometimes the jack their prices
up a little too, and then discount it... so that you don't REALLY get your
25% or 30% off. www.acuraautomotiveparts.org is a good example. Their
"list" price is NOT list price.

stuff!)

 

Check the maintenance records that came with the car. If there are
none that will tell you when the next replacement should be, replace
all fluids, filters, belts, and other consumables whose condition
cannot be determined from inspection.

 

Is there a "rule" that limits how much above MSRP a dealer could charge for
a given part? The two local dealers, same owner, charge about $6 for a
quart of Honda Manual Transmission Fluid, while a dealer 100 miles away
charges only $3.50.

btw, how does one find what list price is?

thanks

 

Falling asleep through 's post...

Mike, I thought you only had disdain for Toyotas.

--
"If you can't change a tire, you're not allowed to have a beard. It's the
most basic part of a car: If you don't know that much about a car, you
really shouldn't be driving, should you?" - Jimmy Kimmel
http://www.cafeshops.com/creexul.2534632
Owner of Henry Cotter, apparently not the first,
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-
8&q=author:manofhour%40webtv.net+

 

Is there a "rule" that limits how much above MSRP a dealer could charge for

This is America, they can charge whatever they want. Just like not all dealers
sell the same cars at the same price. The real question is, are you willing to
pay extra for convenience.







.........
I do not killfile, nor have I joined any do-not-call lists.

 

I'm not familiar with that particular engine, but I know for Honda 4s in
general, they often recommend replacing the water pump along with the
timing belt while you've got it appart. My 95 2.2L four (Accord EX) has a
recommended interval of 96,000 km between timing belt changes. Belt and
waterpump looked fine but I replaced them both anyways.


(T R) wrote in

 

"Coat" him in in what? Tar and feathers?

 

You thought wrong, I don't 'disdain' any vehicle. Perhaps if you
didn't fall asleep so often you would would know I have always
said every manufacture is building good vehicles today. The only
difference I see among them in our business is price and style.
As to my personal preference, since I buy a new car every year, I
buy those that I have found to be the most cost effective to do
so. I have owned Honda and Toyota but I no longer buy foreign
cars because the cost of replacing them every two years has
gotten too high compared to the domestic cars I now buy. As to
what others buy, I always say it is you money spend it where you
wish, I could not car less.



mike hunt

 

Well, I don't know of "every manufacturer" is building "good" cars...but
some *are* better than others. And while the word "better" is subjective, it
would be safe to sat that Hondas "are better" than say a Chevy or Ford.

More hogwash proving your a mark. Example, Chevy Caviler vs. Honda
Civic...there is no question the Honda is better engineered and built than
the Chevy.

More bullship. If you are too stupid to recoup the cost, that is your own
ignorant fault. However, it shouldn't be surprising that you are indeed
challenged, given your spewed ignorance here.

And you too...feel free to throw away your money year after year on inferior
cars, and never having the luxury to own a better vehicle.

Sounds like you don't that much money, but that's probably typical of a 17
year old...wait until later in life when you are more financially
comfortable.

 

"Most cost effective"? you mean, "This is how I lose the least amount of
money".

Only a fool would buy a new car every year. It is impossible to recoup the
drastic depreciation that occurs in the first year of car ownership. You
might as well throw cash right out your Pontiac Sunbird window.

There should be no question from anybody here, that this is proof you are
either:

A: A troll and/or mark
B: Some kid playing with his Mommies keyboard
C: An idiot
D: Someone who is trying to fake he knows a lot about cars
E: Someone who like to see his own posts and writings
F: All of the above

 

Only a fool would buy a new car every year. It is impossible to recoup the

Well, I did trade in a 1 year old Accord before. And I had EQUITY in it even
though I only put down $2000. Says alot about Honda's resale value.





.........
I do not killfile, nor have I joined any do-not-call lists.

 

Zactly! This Mike clown is bass-ackwards. He would like us to belive that
our Hondas are somehow magically exempt for forming equity, but he can walk
away from owning his Chevy Caviler after one year, with boo-coo bucks in his
pocket...bull shingles!

It doesn't really matter anyway...I've got him figured out...he just a mark,
that makes up things as he goes to suit his agenda. I really shouldn't be
wasting my time, but its too much fun catching him in lies and making him
look foolish. What even funnier, he doesn't even get it!

I was an ASE certified technician for 12 years, and I have driven and worked
on hundreds and hundreds of vehicles. I have owned and operated Plymouths,
Dodges, Mercury's, Fords, Chevy's, an Opal, a Buick Capri, VWs, Subaru's,
Hyundai's, Toyotas, and Nissans. I currently have a 1989 Chevy Silverado, a
1994 Accord LX (my 4th Honda), a 1999 Lexus ES 300, a 2003 S2000, and I even
had an Acura NSX for 4 weeks. I build high performance boats and engines as
one of my hobbies, and do all my own work. I believe I have the
credentials...and will let then speak for themselves.

Anyway, I'm starting to rant...everybody have a good weekend.

 

Honestly? You buy a new car every year? Wouldn't it be a whole lot easier
to do a 12 month lease and hand it back rather than worry about re-sale or
your depreciated domestic car?

 

I run two cars, not one. I'm replacing my two year old car.
When I bought my 2003 Mustang GT convertible last August I was
replacing a 2001. I sell my own cars, then do a 'trade through'
a dealership to save on the Pa. sales tax. I have a connection
with a megadealerships company where I once worked as Group Sales
Manager and buy at net invoice. I sold my 2001 for $24,900 and
bought it for $26,300. God bless the used car buyers that are
willing to buy the vehicles I no longer want. If not for them I
would be spending lot more money. My cars are always mint
condition loader vehicles. I have people waiting for my used
cars.


mike hunt

 

Only in your small mind do YOUR facts add up. When I sold my
2001 GT convertible, that I bought in August of 2000, in August
of 2002 and bought the 2003 it was worth 25K on the market. How
do you figure the price today would apply? Where did you dream
up the tax fraud crap, anyway. Doing a trade through is
perfectly legal. The buyer paid the sales tax on 25K for the 2001
and I pay the tax on the difference of my purchase price of the
2003. Perhaps if you took the time to make sure you know what you
are talking about before you sound off, you would not sound so
foolish so often. Go look at a dealership to see what
convertibles sell for in summer v book values then go get a life.


mike hunt

 

I could care less what you chose to believe, but that is what it
cost me, plus tax. I didn't pay MSRP, that was near 30K.





mike hunt

 

Falling asleep through 's post...

You still have yet to provide where in Florida do you live. After claiming
to live there. And somehow you post from PA. Tell us about your million
mile Tempos again. And how you had fleets of cars.

--
"If you can't change a tire, you're not allowed to have a beard. It's the
most basic part of a car: If you don't know that much about a car, you
really shouldn't be driving, should you?" - Jimmy Kimmel
http://www.cafeshops.com/creexul.2534632
Owner of Henry Cotter, apparently not the first,
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-
8&q=author:manofhour%40webtv.net+