Installing Kill Switch on Honda Accord

[MajorSetback]

I would like to install a kill switch on a 2000 Honda Accord LX. In the past (with 80s model cars), I have simply connected a circuit breaker to the active terminal of the battery. However, as I recall for those days, the battery wires were pretty thin (like 12 gauge). So I could just use 12 gauge wire that could easily fit into the kill switch terminals (for the Toyota Corolla at least). However, the battery on my current Honda is connected with large cables about a centimeter in diameter. Do they carry much larger currents now? How much current is usually involved? I need to ensure that the kill switch and wires can handle the current. Where would be the best place to get a circuit diagram? I would be most grateful for any suggestions.

 

[Remco]

A kill switch to make sure no one takes off with your car? A schematic may show an optional kill relay (not sure on the accord) so you'll want to get a manual. Of course, if you use a documented method like that in a manual, a good thief will just bypass it.

I would not put it in line with the battery because those currents are quite high -- any resistance introduced would drop the voltage getting to vital components, like your starter.

It might be easier to put a switch between the input of the ignitor and ecm or the power to the ignitor (mounted inside the distributor, btw). This would cause fuel to flow, but the car to not have spark. This will flood your engine, so even if a would be thief figured out where your kill switch is after he has been trying to start it, the car will still not start right away (it is flooded, after all).

Or put a switch between the main relay coil and its drive (that's under the dash, usually near your left knee). This would cause the car to have spark, but lack gas -- with this one, the car will most likely start once, die and not restart. If he figured out where the kill switch is, he'd be able to restart the car easily.

Remco

 

[justinreigle (at) gmail (dot) com]

I doubt this is what you're looking for (especially considering you're running a newer model). On my accord (1989), when I leave it sitting for a long period of time, I remove the PGM-FI main relay and take it with me. When I repaired the solder joints on the main relay a few years ago, I never bothered to put it back in its proper mounting place and instead just tucked it up under the dash a little.

- Justin

 

[John Ings]

I would like to install a kill switch on a 2000 Honda Accord LX. In the past (with 80s model cars), I have simply connected a circuit breaker to the active terminal of the battery. However, as I recall for those days, the battery wires were pretty thin (like 12 gauge). So I could just use 12 gauge wire that could easily fit into the kill switch terminals (for the Toyota Corolla at least). However, the battery on my current Honda is connected with large cables about a centimeter in diameter. Do they carry much larger currents now? How much current is usually involved?

Your starter wants 50 amps or more.

I need to ensure that the kill switch and wires can
handle the current. Where would be the best place to get a circuit diagram? I would be most grateful for any suggestions.

You can buy kill switches that are incorporated into a battery clamp if you really want to go the battery route, <http://new.minimania.com/web/AddedFrom/Suggest_invDetail/Item/NMC1050/InvDetail.cfm>

But you'll have to re enter your radio code every time you use it, your car clock will forget what time it is, and your ECU will loose all its data from the past 10 starts.

A simpler way with a cheaper switch is to look under the carpet on the driver's side for the wires going to the back. There are several, going to the gas guage and the fuel pump. Interrupt the one going to the fuel pump with a switch that's reachable with your left hand when sitting in the driver's seat. You'll need a look at a wiring diagram to get the color code for the wire. Usually it's yellow.

 

[Steve Bigelow]

You can buy kill switches that are incorporated into a battery clamp if you really want to go the battery route, <http://new.minimania.com/web/AddedFrom/Suggest_invDetail/Item/NMC1050/InvDetail.cfm>

But you'll have to re enter your radio code every time you use it, your car clock will forget what time it is, and your ECU will loose all its data from the past 10 starts.

You just jumper across it with a fused wire, say 2 amps. It'll keep all your settings intact and clock running, but will blow on starter current draw.

 

[TomP]

Your car has the Honda Type II Imobilizer system; no "kill switch" needed. Your car won't start without the programmed key.

I would like to install a kill switch on a 2000 Honda Accord LX. In the past (with 80s model cars), I have simply connected a circuit breaker to the active terminal of the battery. However, as I recall for those days, the battery wires were pretty thin (like 12 gauge). So I could just use 12 gauge wire that could easily fit into the kill switch terminals (for the Toyota Corolla at least). However, the battery on my current Honda is connected with large cables about a centimeter in diameter. Do they carry much larger currents now? How much current is usually involved? I need to ensure that the kill switch and wires can handle the current. Where would be the best place to get a circuit diagram? I would be most grateful for any suggestions.

 

[shawn]

Your car has the Honda Type II Imobilizer system; no "kill switch" needed. Your car won't start without the programmed key.

Do the thieves have a way around it. Obviously they could tow the vehicle, but I'm wondering if they have found a way to start the car and drive it away, yet?

 

[SoCalMike]

A simpler way with a cheaper switch is to look under the carpet on the driver's side for the wires going to the back. There are several, going to the gas guage and the fuel pump. Interrupt the one going to the fuel pump with a switch that's reachable with your left hand when sitting in the driver's seat. You'll need a look at a wiring diagram to get the color code for the wire. Usually it's yellow.

they run through the cabin along the drivers side doorsill? hmmmm... ive been wanting to do something like that and not have to worry bout a crappy alarm.

 

[John Ings]

they run through the cabin along the drivers side doorsill? hmmmm... ive been wanting to do something like that and not have to worry bout a crappy alarm.

It will stop someone driving the car away, but won't keep them from stealing your wheels, your battery and your radio, or towing the whole thing away!

 

[TomP]

Do the thieves have a way around it.

Obviously they could tow the
vehicle, but I'm wondering if they have found a way to start the car and drive it away, yet?

If they want Your car bad enough they will get it. Other than "jack you" or tow the car. There is no easy way around the Imobilizer system. Organized car thief's will always get their prey, but with Imobi System the "joy ride" thefts are all but history.

 

[SoCalMike]

It will stop someone driving the car away, but won't keep them from stealing your wheels, your battery and your radio, or towing the whole thing away!

heh. its a CX hatch, still has the 14" steelies on it, and a blaupunkt 10 disc changer. the battery is OEM and still works great, too!

so i guess theyll haveta tow it.

 

[MajorSetback]

Your car has the Honda Type II Imobilizer system; no "kill switch" needed. Your car won't start without the programmed key.

The issue arose when our keyless entry switch started playing up (possibly due to an old battery). When my wife opened the door with the key, the alarm went off. It was outside a gas station and a guy from the gas station came out and started playing with this setup that involved a red flashing light on the dash-board to the left of the steering wheel (relative to the driver on a drive-on-the-right car). By doing this, he was able to turn off the alarm system. I am now able to open the door and start the car with just the physical key.

My question is this. If the guy from the gas station could disable the alarm system, could a car thief not also disable the alarm system? Would this not enable the thief to hotwire the car?

Thanks,
Peter.

 

[MajorSetback]

It will stop someone driving the car away, but won't keep them from stealing your wheels, your battery and your radio, or towing the whole thing away!

You reach a point where they will just go after another car - in my case at least. After all, it is not a collector's item and there are always other parked cars around. I'm mainly thinking in terms of parking lots and cul de sacs.

Thanks,
Peter.

 

[chip]

The issue arose when our keyless entry switch started playing up (possibly due to an old battery). When my wife opened the door with the key, the alarm went off. It was outside a gas station and a guy from the gas station came out and started playing with this setup that involved a red flashing light on the dash-board to the left of the steering wheel (relative to the driver on a drive-on-the-right car). By doing this, he was able to turn off the alarm system. I am now able to open the door and start the car with just the physical key.

My question is this. If the guy from the gas station could disable the alarm system, could a car thief not also disable the alarm system? Would this not enable the thief to hotwire the car?

Thanks,
Peter.

you have aftermarket keyless, he hit the valet button. everyone knows how to do that. as for starting an immobilizer car, if i find a way to turn the switch, like take it off the cylinder, the the brake code can be used to start it without a programmed key.
Chip

 

[MajorSetback]

you have aftermarket keyless, he hit the valet button. everyone knows how to do that. as for starting an immobilizer car, if i find a way to turn the switch, like take it off the cylinder, the the brake code can be used to start it without a programmed key.
Chip

I hope I don't sound too clueless but is the "programmed key" the physical key? I guess the keyless entry button is separate from the immobilizer. My question is, how can a solid metalic key be programmed?

Thanks,
Peter.

 

[r2000swler]

It has a IC memory chip in the plastic covering the non keyed end.

And they are very expensive it you loose one.

Terry

 

[MAT]

You can buy kill switches that are incorporated into a battery clamp if you really want to go the battery route, <http://new.minimania.com/web/AddedFrom/Suggest_invDetail/Item/NMC1050/InvDetail.cfm>

Rememebr a couple of years ago when Diehard advertised a battery line with a a built in 'kill switch' and accompanying remote key fob. I thought it sounded neat but never looked into it further.