Incredibly stupid design in '90 accord's air intake's solenoid valve

www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d800d0673.gif
This "intake control solenoid valve" is unneccessary [ii] has a
resistance of 23ohm, receives 11.8, 11v & 3.3mv during driving
cranking & idle time, so wastes 0.513 0.478 amp & 0.143mA.
Users can remove this valve & its box, connect vacuum hose ( #8 )
directly to "intake control diaphragm", so more ampere will be
available for cranking / ignition / charging battery.
Engine will crank faster. If it has low resistance ( <200 ohm, mine
0.2 ohm) spark cables & plugs, then torque ( mine by 8% ), idle
rpm & mpg will rise [ii] exhaust noise will drop ( mine by 8% )
[iii] idle rpm can be reduced ( mine to minimum : can now idle
stably w-o load @580 rpm ).
Users in warm climate can put a polystyrene tray ( mine 5¼ x 9¾"
) between radiator & overflow bottle, so hot air from radiator can
not reach air intake pipes' mouths.

 

???? what a drooling idiot.

quit wasting electrons chea - the nurse will be along in a moment.

 

???? what a drooling idiot.

quit wasting electrons chea - the nurse will be along in a moment.

 

It will make a difference, but you can't measure it. bob

 

It will make a difference, but you can't measure it. bob

 

Yeah, that extra tenth of a milli-amp is really going to make a
difference in the cranking speed.

Why don't you put a polyethylene bag between your air intake and our
oxygen.

 

Yeah, that extra tenth of a milli-amp is really going to make a
difference in the cranking speed.

Why don't you put a polyethylene bag between your air intake and our
oxygen.

 

www.batteryfaq.org Battery's parasitic load will be 0.143 mA
less, i.e. lower risk of sulfation ( when charge stored is <80% )
[ii] nearly ½ amp less discharge during cranking will prolong
battery life.

| It will make a difference, but you can't measure it.
What can't be measured ?
No need to use elaborate equipment ( & pay charges, spend time
+ petrol ) to estimate %age torque rise ; Newton's law says
acceleration ( metre per second² ) = force ( Newton ) ÷ mass (
kg ), I modify this to = ( force - friction / resistance ) ÷ mass. If
acceleration ( esp when climbing hill slope ) rises by 10%, mass
& friction remain constant, then torque must have risen by
nearly 10%.

 

www.batteryfaq.org Battery's parasitic load will be 0.143 mA
less, i.e. lower risk of sulfation ( when charge stored is <80% )
[ii] nearly ½ amp less discharge during cranking will prolong
battery life.

| It will make a difference, but you can't measure it.
What can't be measured ?
No need to use elaborate equipment ( & pay charges, spend time
+ petrol ) to estimate %age torque rise ; Newton's law says
acceleration ( metre per second² ) = force ( Newton ) ÷ mass (
kg ), I modify this to = ( force - friction / resistance ) ÷ mass. If
acceleration ( esp when climbing hill slope ) rises by 10%, mass
& friction remain constant, then torque must have risen by
nearly 10%.

 

That really is insignificant. The alarm system and audio system keep-alive
currents are so much greater than that (about 200 times greater) it would
make no difference whatever. Same goes for cranking - half an amp less than
400 amps just doesn't matter.

Mike

 

That really is insignificant. The alarm system and audio system keep-alive
currents are so much greater than that (about 200 times greater) it would
make no difference whatever. Same goes for cranking - half an amp less than
400 amps just doesn't matter.

Mike

 

Where does a half amp come from? 0.143 mA is about 3000 times less
than a half amp.

Assuming your engine is 100hp, a 10% increase in torque would
correspond to 10 hp (at redline).

Even a 5 hp gain (at a lower rpm) equals about 3800 watts. One half
amp at 13v = 6.5 watts. Even allowing for inefficiency of the
alternator, you still need to account for 99% of your supposed power
increase.

Conclusion #1: Energy consumption from this minor device is
negligible and the "parasitic load" is not measurable except by
measuring its tiny power consumption directly and calculating its
minuscule, hypothetical effect on starter voltage and engine output.

Conclusion #2:You are nuts. (But we already knew that.)

BTW, you are violating a Federal law when you disable these devices.
The fine could be up to $50,000. Why don't you instead go out and buy
a $50,000 car which will really will be >10% faster and better in
every way except fuel consumption and perhaps maneuverability. Then
do not ever look under the hood and, if you do, don't tell us how
defective it is.

 

Where does a half amp come from? 0.143 mA is about 3000 times less
than a half amp.

Assuming your engine is 100hp, a 10% increase in torque would
correspond to 10 hp (at redline).

Even a 5 hp gain (at a lower rpm) equals about 3800 watts. One half
amp at 13v = 6.5 watts. Even allowing for inefficiency of the
alternator, you still need to account for 99% of your supposed power
increase.

Conclusion #1: Energy consumption from this minor device is
negligible and the "parasitic load" is not measurable except by
measuring its tiny power consumption directly and calculating its
minuscule, hypothetical effect on starter voltage and engine output.

Conclusion #2:You are nuts. (But we already knew that.)

BTW, you are violating a Federal law when you disable these devices.
The fine could be up to $50,000. Why don't you instead go out and buy
a $50,000 car which will really will be >10% faster and better in
every way except fuel consumption and perhaps maneuverability. Then
do not ever look under the hood and, if you do, don't tell us how
defective it is.

 

| The alarm system and audio system keep-alive
| currents are so much greater than that (about 200 times greater) it would
| make no difference whatever.
The bigger is parasitic*load, the more important is any reduction
of *, to avoid sulfation of battery whenever battery gets no
charging for many days, unless user has a functional solar battery
charger connected. My clock, radio, windows motors' relay (
similarly unnecessary, wastes current & drains battery ) are all
removed. My alarm is close to getting removed.

| half an amp less than 400 amps just doesn't matter.
Bullshit, F20A 's starter motor is rated 1.4 kw @12v
http://icelord.net/honda/repair/ page 3-16, i.e. draws 116.66 amp if
voltage is 12v ( from a 65 Ah battery ). My 35 Ah battery's voltage
drops to 8½ v during cranking, i.e. ampere used is just 116.66 x 8½
÷ 12 = 82.6 amp.

 

| The alarm system and audio system keep-alive
| currents are so much greater than that (about 200 times greater) it would
| make no difference whatever.
The bigger is parasitic*load, the more important is any reduction
of *, to avoid sulfation of battery whenever battery gets no
charging for many days, unless user has a functional solar battery
charger connected. My clock, radio, windows motors' relay (
similarly unnecessary, wastes current & drains battery ) are all
removed. My alarm is close to getting removed.

| half an amp less than 400 amps just doesn't matter.
Bullshit, F20A 's starter motor is rated 1.4 kw @12v
http://icelord.net/honda/repair/ page 3-16, i.e. draws 116.66 amp if
voltage is 12v ( from a 65 Ah battery ). My 35 Ah battery's voltage
drops to 8½ v during cranking, i.e. ampere used is just 116.66 x 8½
÷ 12 = 82.6 amp.

 

Not with the clock again, Cheah.

You know, your car would accelerate faster if you drove naked.

Funny, my GS-R has a 1.4kW starter and a high compression engine and I
live in Chicago where it can easily hit -10 F in the winter. I have
an electric clock, windows and a radio and God knows what else that
you would confusingly label "parasitic" and my car cranks and starts
just fine every time. And that is the experience of virtually
everyone here. What is your problem?

If you are really so anal about parasitic load, why don't you just
install a disconnect on the battery? Here is one that I can
personally attest for:

http://www.autoanything.com/driving-accessories/69A1720A0A0.aspx

 

Not with the clock again, Cheah.

You know, your car would accelerate faster if you drove naked.

Funny, my GS-R has a 1.4kW starter and a high compression engine and I
live in Chicago where it can easily hit -10 F in the winter. I have
an electric clock, windows and a radio and God knows what else that
you would confusingly label "parasitic" and my car cranks and starts
just fine every time. And that is the experience of virtually
everyone here. What is your problem?

If you are really so anal about parasitic load, why don't you just
install a disconnect on the battery? Here is one that I can
personally attest for:

http://www.autoanything.com/driving-accessories/69A1720A0A0.aspx