I am on a mean streak of glitches...

everything you typed describes a switch problem. best to replace with
new, since junkyard civics will already have some wear and pitting on
the contacts.

 

I think my ignition switch is on its way out know. I guess it could be
main relay related or something else, but here are my experiences:

1991 Honda Civic Si

This all started just last night. I have never had a problem like this
before (got the car ~14 mos. ago). I have been through 1 winter(WI, USA)
with the car, but the cold this year seems to be freaking out my
electrical systems.

I insert my key, and turn it to the position that lights up all the dash
indicators, and wait for the check engine light to go out. I turn the
key to crank the engine and it starts like it always does, but
immediately dies (less than a second). I can't remember if the dash
lights were on after it died, but I turned the I repeatedly took the key
completely out key to off. Then I turned it back to the on position, but
got no lights on the dash. I can't remember exactly what I did next, but
I repeatedly took the key completely out and turned it to the on
position, and generally fiddled with it and got the car started okay. I
drove it for a while last night and it never died except for the intial
cold start attempt.

This morning, it is not very cold. Maybe high 20's, low 30's. The car
did the same thing. Acts normally when starting from a cold start, but
dies immediately. This time however, I think I was able to just restart
it from the on position and it was fine after that for a short in town trip.

It is important to note that I had the cover off the steering column
this past week , removing and reinstalling the headlight switch
assembly. I may just need to make sure I didn't disturb anything I
shouldn't have.

I have a Helm manual, so I'll be taking a peek in there today. I would
appreciate if people have any pointers, and also if they think it is
worth getting electrical parts at salvage yards.

Mark

 

It's not the contact that's bad. It's the plastic key way inside the
switch that's wearing out. On a bad switch, turning the key doesn't turn
the switch as much as should have.

 

So I take it this isn't something I can take apart and service like the
headlight/turnsignal switch?

 

My wife's 92 Acrua Legend had a similar problem. It would start but as soon
as you let go of the key it would die. I removed the switch part of the
ignition switch (you can pull that part off the back of the key part of the
switch) and found that the grease they had put in there had hardened up
enough to prevent contact. I cleaned it and that fixed it, but she wanted
a new switch. The switch and about 18" of cable (from the back of the switch
to the fuse box area) cost $100.

 

Not the one on my 91 LX. Leave the key in the on position. Jiggle the key to
see if the lights go off. The switch was $39 for my Civi .

 

Hey,

I was able to take the switch off the car and take it apart. The
contacts were really messy, so I gave it the same treatment I gave my
headlight/turn signal sitch; I just cleaned them up well and put some
fresh grease on the plastic friction surfaces. The contacts did show
wear, so I'll see if I have trouble down the road I guess. My digital
camera went on the fritz recently otherwise I think I would have taken
pictires to make a HOWTO. Thanks for sharing your experience Mike.

Mark

 

How many keys do you carry with the igniton key?
I have noticed that several Hondas (from 1972 CL350's to 1995 Civics
have rather "delicate" switches that will wear out pretty fast if too
much
weight is on the switch. I have been told by a Toyota machanic that
many
modern cars/trucks have this problem. Mine was a little flaky when I
bought
it 2 years ago, so I cleaned it and only have my car key and house key
on that key ring. Never had a bit of trouble since. I took mine apart
and cleaned the heavy grease and put a light silcon(not heatsink
compound!!!!) grease.
My 1985 Celica had over 100K when I bought it and the igntion lock and
switch wre badly worn. So I added an electronic igniton lock, and
repaired
the actual lock as well as I could. A new switch was obscene, and I had
no luck finding one in a junkyard.
Better to not damage the lock in the first place. Some of the guys I
work
with cary a fistfull of keys and that can't be too good for a lock.
They could
sell the brass and retire!

Terry

 

I have 12 keys on my chain (kinf of heavy). I wouldn't know how the
ignition was treated prior to fall of last year though when I got the
car. How could a heavy keychain screw up the electrical portion of the
switch? I can understand how it may mess up the mechanical part.

Mark

 

I took the igniton switch in my Celcia apart and found that the
machanical/lock
part was so wron that it did not always move the switch completly to
the
run position. In that car I was able to salvage the switch by building
up
the tab that turned the switch with some epoxy. But inspite of my best
efforts, I couldn't get it to where it would always turn the switch far
enough to
engage the start contacts. So I cheated and added an simple electronic
combination lock to provide the start function. I am a tightwad and
could not
find anything but the stock Toyota part, which was integrated into the
lock
and both local dealers wanted over 200$ less labor. If you disassemble
the lock/switch see if the lock positions and switch positions line up
perfectly.
And that the lock is not jiggling back and forth any. Even a tiny
movement can be too much.
Terry