Honda dealer said, Battery test Bad - recommended to change battery, Sears said no need to cgange

Santa

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Honda dealer said (when I took my car for 60K miles service), Battery test Bad - recommended to change battery, Sears said no need to cgange, unless the car started with jumpstart. These are the results when Honda printer for me when the dealer tested my battery (5 years old car, bought brand new 5 years back, sofar I didn't change the battery).

Battery size - 440CCA
Initial voltage - 12.97V
Loadvoltage 9.90V
State of the charge - 91%
Resistance - 0.0mOhm
Battery temp - 70F

Bad tested BAD

When I show this info, in sears, they said, unless the car comes to stage of it needed jumpstart, no need to change. Finally I didn't change the battery, no problem in starting, no problem in headlights sofar, but I am getting scare is, suppose of I turn on my headlight while I am driving, will that makes my car down?. I am thinking of whether to change the battery or not?. Can some expert suggest me, what to do. Thanks and appreciated.
 
I would change it ASAP. On average, batteries last 5 years.

The last thing you want is to find out you need a new battery when you're alone on a deserted highway at night.

I remember looooong time ago, we were at the beach when we found the battery dead. Since it was midnight, no one was around. Finally, someone showed up and my dad asked him for a jumpstart. He refused to do it unless he was paid $50. He reluctantly paid it. Damn negroes don't know the meaning of good samaritan.

....................
I do not killfile nor use do-not-call lists.
 
Honda dealer said (when I took my car for 60K miles service), Battery test Bad - recommended to change battery, Sears said no need to cgange, unless the car started with jumpstart. These are the results when Honda printer for me when the dealer tested my battery (5 years old car, bought brand new 5 years back, sofar I didn't change the battery).

Battery size - 440CCA
Initial voltage - 12.97V
Loadvoltage 9.90V
State of the charge - 91%
Resistance - 0.0mOhm
Battery temp - 70F

Bad tested BAD

When I show this info, in sears, they said, unless the car comes to stage of it needed jumpstart, no need to change. Finally I didn't change the battery, no problem in starting, no problem in headlights sofar, but I am getting scare is, suppose of I turn on my headlight while I am driving, will that makes my car down?. I am thinking of whether to change the battery or not?. Can some expert suggest me, what to do. Thanks and appreciated.

Turning on your lights (or radio, etc.) while the car is running is not going to have any effect on the battery. The power comes from the alternator when the car is running.

The problem you are going to have will be on some cold morning, when you don't have any extra time, the car is not going to start and you will need that jump start that Sears is telling you about. At that point you will have to get a new battery. It might happen tomorrow. It might be fine for another 6 months.

5 years is pretty good for a Honda OEM battery. Around here (Texas) we're lucky if they make it through two summers.
 
Santa said:
Honda dealer said (when I took my car for 60K miles service), Battery test Bad - recommended to change battery, Sears said no need to cgange, unless the car started with jumpstart. These are the results when Honda printer for me when the dealer tested my battery (5 years old car, bought brand new 5 years back, sofar I didn't change the battery).

Battery quality (price) is determined by cranking amps, and months.

60 months is about the longest battery lives you can buy...so even if you assume Honda put the "best" battery in the car, its life could be at the very end.

However it should be noted that "charge cycles" have a lot to do with battery life, as does "in the red" battery load. If you have a car your starting 10-12 daily, expect your battery to have a shorter life. Also, if you load accessories at idle (big stereo, police car) so the battery is outputting more amps than it is receiving (discharging), that can also effect battery life.
Battery size - 440CCA
Initial voltage - 12.97V
Loadvoltage 9.90V
State of the charge - 91%
Resistance - 0.0mOhm
Battery temp - 70F

Bad tested BAD

These number are subjective. At what amp draw did they come up with the "Loadvoltage"?
When I show this info, in sears, they said, unless the car comes to stage of it needed jumpstart, no need to change.

Hey...have you been talking to Mike? :)
Finally I didn't
change the battery, no problem in starting, no problem in headlights sofar, but I am getting scare is, suppose of I turn on my headlight while I am driving, will that makes my car down?.

Wont happen with a working alternator...providing your not discharging.
I am thinking of
whether to change the battery or not?. Can some expert suggest me, what to do. Thanks and appreciated.

Change your battery.
 
Santa said:
Honda dealer said (when I took my car for 60K miles service), Battery test Bad - recommended to change battery, Sears said no need to cgange, unless the car started with jumpstart. These are the results when Honda printer for me when the dealer tested my battery (5 years old car, bought brand new 5 years back, sofar I didn't change the battery).
Battery size - 440CCA
Initial voltage - 12.97V
Loadvoltage 9.90V
State of the charge - 91%
Resistance - 0.0mOhm
Battery temp - 70F
Bad tested BAD

I think five years is excellent life from an OEM battery.

The failure mode might be that if you leave your lights on once, and need a jumpstart, the battery won't hold a charge at all after that. You would prefer to know that the battery is going to go bad just before it does.

Did Sears actually test it? I think Sears, Kragen, and the dealer probably all use a very similar load test. Probably 15 seconds at a load equal to the battery rating, maybe 440Amps in this case.

9 volts probably won't start the car. 9.9 volts in this test may indicate that it won't start the car on a cold day...
 
The original battary on my DX hatch is still doing great, after 5 canadian winters. I've got it loaded down with a 100amp bazzoka subwoofers, a total of 600watts of speakers, CD Changer and Alpine receiver. In countless occations, i've had the car plasting the music 8 hrs straight. I've left the interior lights on in many occations and drained the battary. I've also jump started stalled cars in about 20 to 30 insidence over the years...

We'll just have to see how well the battary holds up this comming winter.

Pars
98 DX Hatch
 
Honda dealer said (when I took my car for 60K miles service), Battery test Bad - recommended to change battery, Sears said no need to cgange, unless the car started with jumpstart. These are the results when Honda printer for me when the dealer tested my battery (5 years old car, bought brand new 5 years back, sofar I didn't change the battery).

Battery size - 440CCA
Initial voltage - 12.97V
Loadvoltage 9.90V
State of the charge - 91%
Resistance - 0.0mOhm
Battery temp - 70F

Bad tested BAD

When I show this info, in sears, they said, unless the car comes to stage of it needed jumpstart, no need to change. Finally I didn't change the battery, no problem in starting, no problem in headlights sofar, but I am getting scare is, suppose of I turn on my headlight while I am driving, will that makes my car down?. I am thinking of whether to change the battery or not?. Can some expert suggest me, what to do. Thanks and appreciated.

Since when is a battery test a part of normal dealership maintenance?! It sounds like they're looking for an excuse to sell you something.

If this was a 96/97 Civic, the numbers above would be passing. Its test procedure is:

Battery must be between 70F and 100F.
Bring battery to full charge.
Apply 300A load for 15 seconds.
Allow 15 seconds recovery.
Apply an amperage load of 1/2 CCA rating for 15 seconds. Voltage must remain above 9.6 volts during load test.

Get a second opinion and post your model of car. Dealerships will scam customers just like any greasy hole-in-the-wall shop will. Compare parts prices too. The scam dealerships will jack the prices up 2 or 3 times list price.
 
My wifes VW battery last 9 years before it exploded. Man, what a mess it made. It even dented the hood.
 
I'd say you have a dead battery just waiting to happen. One of these days it's going to fail you, likely without warning. Once a battery gets to five years of life it is good insurance to replace it. Unless of course you like being stranded somewhere with a dead battery. Do you really want to wait until it fails?

Dick
 
Santa said:
Honda dealer said (when I took my car for 60K miles service), Battery test Bad - recommended to change battery, Sears said no need to cgange, unless the car started with jumpstart. These are the results when Honda printer for me when the dealer tested my battery (5 years old car, bought brand new 5 years back, sofar I didn't change the battery).

Battery size - 440CCA
Initial voltage - 12.97V
Loadvoltage 9.90V
State of the charge - 91%
Resistance - 0.0mOhm
Battery temp - 70F

Bad tested BAD

When I show this info, in sears, they said, unless the car comes to stage of it needed jumpstart, no need to change. Finally I didn't change the battery, no problem in starting, no problem in headlights sofar, but I am getting scare is, suppose of I turn on my headlight while I am driving, will that makes my car down?. I am thinking of whether to change the battery or not?. Can some expert suggest me, what to do. Thanks and appreciated.
our 2001 honda needed a jump to start.. the battery checked out fine. i just ignored it..... so two weeks later it needed a jump to start.. battery checked out fine.... i figured it was time to get a new battery.. Auto Zone, cost about $39.95 for a new battery, 440 CCA.... with a 1 yr. replacement and then the next 4 yrs. prorated... no big deal for a battery... its three yrs old..no sense in pushing it.....
just go buy a new battery,...
 
The cold weather seems to be a usefull tool when determing the quality of the battary. Last winter, My Hatch was snowed-in for a week untill I finally got around to digging it out. Luckly, the car started, but I needed two attemts (consisting of 3 cranks each) and I doubt there was enough juice left in that battary for a third try. Given that my car has always started on the first try (When strating the car, I will not keep the ignition going for more then 3 cranks), if the car fails to start-up after the first attempt, I'll know something is wrong and have it changed. Hopefully, an explosion will not be in order untill that happens.

Pars
 
Thanks for your suggestions and comments, appreciated
 
jim said:
our 2001 honda needed a jump to start.. the battery checked out fine. i just ignored it..... so two weeks later it needed a jump to start.. battery checked out fine.... i figured it was time to get a new battery.. Auto Zone, cost about $39.95 for a new battery, 440 CCA.... with a 1 yr. replacement and then the next 4 yrs. prorated... no big deal for a battery... its three yrs old..no sense in pushing it.....
just go buy a new battery,...

yeap...for about 50 bucks, hopefully you will not need to worry about it for another few years vs getting stuck somewhere waiting for help.
 
I was taught as follows:

When the battery is FULLY charged and can take a load of 1/2 its CCA (220A) for 15 seconds without dropping below 9.6V, it was good.

I'd ask the dealer how they determined the battery was bad.

Note: To reply, replace the word 'spam' embedded in return address with 'mail'.
N38.6 W121.4
 
E. Meyer said:
Turning on your lights (or radio, etc.) while the car is running is not going to have any effect on the battery. The power comes from the alternator when the car is running.

The problem you are going to have will be on some cold morning, when you don't have any extra time, the car is not going to start and you will need that jump start that Sears is telling you about. At that point you will have to get a new battery. It might happen tomorrow. It might be fine for another 6 months.

5 years is pretty good for a Honda OEM battery. Around here (Texas) we're lucky if they make it through two summers.

As you alude heat is the biggest killer in modern cars. Way back when we all drove carsx with carbs, and non electronic ignition (can you say Ketting?) systems, most batteries died on the first super cold night that hit. But for the last 20 years or so, more people have dead batteries in July or August after a long hot day. Most modern cars require very little battery power to start. I am starting my 1985 Celica with a lawnmower battery. (trying to decide to between restoring and junking) The Celica starts easier then the MDT/ Briggs 15HP engine.

Does else remember 6 volt cars, and how much current they require? We used to jump my wife 63 bug from my 68 bug. She kept her lights and radio off and the bug would start on the coldest days, but with a new 6V battery, it had to crank for a long time.

And I would try to avoid letting my battery weaken to the point where I needed a jump, modern electronics are tricky and I have several friends who "smoked" their auto CPUs with a jump. Works both ways, either car can lose it's CPU.
Terry
 

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