Heating problem in 1988 Honda accord

Discussion in 'Accord' started by tim1337, Mar 6, 2005.

  1. tim1337

    tim1337 Guest

    Recently Ive been having problems with getting heat and possible
    engine overheating. I though the thermostat was stuck, so I replaced
    it. That didnt do anything.

    The car was started I got nothing. When i drove around the block
    (which lasted no longer than 5 minutes) the engine temp gauge started
    rapidly climbing. Eventually, it went to the red line.

    When I shut it off, it hadnt been running for more than 15 minutes. I
    popped the hood to check the engine. Im sure t wasnt overhewating. i
    could still touch the engine with my hands and it was just a litle
    hot-nothing unusual for runinng like that.

    First, how what can it be thats taking my heat away? Its not even
    getting a little warm.

    Also, is my engine really overheating, or is it the gauge or something

    tim1337, Mar 6, 2005
  2. tim1337

    Randolph Guest

    Perhaps the water pump no longer works? If so, you will get no heat
    inside the car and the engine will overheat. Depending on where the
    temperature sender for the gauge is located, the gauge may or may not
    register that the engine is overheating. If it is a failed water pump,
    you can easily ruin the engine if you drive the car before getting it
    Randolph, Mar 6, 2005
  3. As Randall says, it sounds like the coolant isn't circulating. Since the
    guage starts reading right and then climbs to red line in about the time
    we'd expect for no coolant flow, I don't think the guage is lying. Don't
    drive that car until you get this sorted out or you will be dealing with a
    warped cylinder head on top of whatever's doing this.

    There have been sporadic reports of water pumps that have lost their vanes,
    but you could also be dealing with a blockage or other coolant supply

    If your timing belt is due for replacement soon, you may want to bite the
    bullet and get the timing belt and water pump replaced now. The labor is
    essentially the same to do one as to do both. If the timing belt isn't due
    for a few more years, the gurus here may have some tips and hints for
    checking the water pump and coolant flow.

    Michael Pardee, Mar 6, 2005
  4. tim1337

    tim1337 Guest

    is replacing the water pump hard/expensive?
    tim1337, Mar 6, 2005
  5. tim1337

    Jason Guest

    I agree with the other posters that told you that it could be a defective
    water pump. I once replaced a water pump and it was a lot of work. Since
    it is clear from your later post that you have never before replaced a
    water pump, I advise you to have a friend help you-that has done it
    before-or take it to a mechanic that you trust. If possible, watch the
    mechanic so that you can learn how to do it yourself. If you decide to do
    the work yourself, you should have a repair manual for your car--you can
    buy one at almost any auto store such as NAPA or AutoZone.
    Jason, Mar 6, 2005
  6. I'm afraid so. The pump is nestled behind the timing belt. The major steps
    1) drain the coolant system (naturally)
    2) remove the crankshaft pulleys (harmonic balancer)... this takes a hefty
    impact wrench or a pulley holding tool and a socket with giganamous cheater
    bar. It *cannot* be done with the old trick of putting the socket handle on
    a jackstand and bumping the starter because the engine turns the wrong way.
    The pulley holding tool is useful even with the impact wrench.
    3) remove the timing belt cover and timing belt
    4) remove the water pump
    5) put it back together about the way it came apart, but without all the
    colorful language describing the insanely tight hardware.

    Many of us lump water pump replacement in with timing belt replacement
    because the first three steps are the same. The market price for timing belt
    and water pump replacement is around $500 all told, but it is possible to
    pay significantly more and possible to pay significantly less. As a DIY job
    it definitely gets into the "very challenging" range unless you can get a
    shop to break that crank bolt loose and retorque it for you. The spec'd
    torque is under 200 ft-lbs but it gets extremely stubborn over the years.
    The bolt is accessible easily enough to make that a practical approach if
    you can find a shop willing to do it (or if you rent a powerful torque
    wrench and buy a 19 mm impact socket).

    Michael Pardee, Mar 7, 2005
  7. tim1337

    tim1337 Guest

    Ok, on my way home from school (about a 15 minute drive) and when i
    was almost home, I hit a small pot hole and heard kind of a pop. My
    engine was running hot for about 5 minutes. Instantly, my heat turned
    on and the temp gauge went down to normal. When i got home my engine
    was a little smoky. (Terrible to run it that hot, I know, but I needed
    to go) The car drove and sounded fine afterwards too.

    im thinking this is a good sign or a very bad sign....
    tim1337, Mar 7, 2005
  8. tim1337

    tim1337 Guest

    It should also be noted that I went over some really rough bumps the
    day it all started happening.
    tim1337, Mar 7, 2005
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