grease, clutch cylinders

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Abeness, Nov 12, 2004.

  1. Abeness

    Abeness Guest

    I need to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders on my 94 Civic.
    Any tips?

    Does it really matter whether I get OEM from e.g. Majestic, or
    aftermarket from the local store from which I *think* it will be
    somewhat less?

    I'm assuming that I need to buy the clutch master seal and cotter pin
    separately. Anything else I should have on hand? I'd obviously like to
    try to avoid having to run out to get stuff (barring unforeseen
    problems) while the car is unavailable.

    Can I assume that the reservoir hose clamp and hose will hold up in the
    transition from old master cylinder to new?

    And how about grease? The Helm manual lists "super high temp urea
    grease" and "brake assembly lube or equivalent rubber grease"--are these
    items that can be picked up easily at any auto parts store? I've got an
    old container of NLGI#2 lithium wheel bearing grease (Castrol) that's
    listed for high-temp applications (would have to be for bearings)--would
    that be an appropriate equivalent to the former? I know nothing of
    grease: what's the difference between lithium and urea greases? The
    Honda grease is $10 from slhonda, which seems excessive.

    Any info on potential gotchas will be appreciated, as this will be my
    first significant automotive job. It looks pretty straightforward and
    I'm far from a mechanical idiot.

    BTW, is the "Mity Vac Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit" a good
    choice, even though it's a bit pricey? I'm looking for somethig I can
    use to not only bleed the system, but also to suck the fluid out of the
    Is there something better?

    Abeness, Nov 12, 2004
  2. Abeness

    jim beam Guest

    how long you going to keep the car? some of the aftermarkets only last
    a couple of years. oem lasts at least 10.
    should. you'll find out!
    absolutely do /not/ use the castrol grease. the hydraulics use natural
    rubber which needs a silicone grease or plain old brake fluid to lube.
    anything else [like castrol] attacks the polymer making it first swell,
    then fall apart.

    on the actuator end, you can get away with a cheaper grease /if/ it
    doesn't creep. but if it does creep, like the castrol, the light
    elements work their way back towards the hydraulic end and contaminate
    the rubber...

    yes, the auto store should have both of the honda spec type greases, but
    be sure you stick to your requirements, not settle for "think this'll work".
    i just use a neighbor to press the pedal. costs me a beer.
    jim beam, Nov 12, 2004
  3. Abeness

    Abeness Guest

    For the few bucks extra, then, I'll go OEM. Just got the car, and plan
    to drive it into the ground.
    Right. Thanks!
    Exactly why I asked. So what is urea grease, anyway?
    Abeness, Nov 14, 2004
  4. Abeness

    jim beam Guest

    remember to change your hydraulic fluids yearly! old fluid has absorbed
    moisture which corrodes the metals in the moving parts. that in turn
    abrades the seals, then they leak. it also has much greater risk of
    vapor lock at high temperatures. finally, fresh fluid contains rubber
    preservatives & conditioners greatly improving life.
    i gather the poly-urea is just a highly stable thickening agent. i
    believe that normal thickeners, soaps, are not as good at higher

    if you want to do some experiments, get some [natural] rubber bands,
    then smear one in each of these different greases, oil & brake fluid.
    then leave them in a safe place for a couple of weeks. you'll see some
    pretty dramatic differences when you come back to them.
    jim beam, Nov 14, 2004
  5. Abeness

    Abeness Guest

    Thanks a lot for the tip. I have to replace the clutch master and slave
    cuz they're both leaking, and lord knows if the gal I bought it from
    ever replaced the fluids. I've been meaning to replace the brake fluids
    (ABS included) ASAP for this very reason, and tranny oil too. Not that
    those clutch seals wouldn't have gone after 10 years anyway, of course.

    She neglected to give me the repair history when I picked up the car
    (yes, she had kept all her receipts), and then threw it out without
    asking if I wanted them! Unbelievable. Shame on me for not confirming
    that they were there. She did draw up a list of mileages at which some
    of the major things had been done (e.g. timing belt/water pump), but
    gads. Lucky for me the car is in great shape, despite the local dealer
    finding $3000 worth of repairs they could do when I had them inspect it
    (at $94/hr). Glad I know some stuff and got to see it on the rack...

    Just one example: they wanted to replace the front rotors for some $400
    becase they were "rusted inside". Unh-hunh... that's what rotors do,
    man, and you don't replace them until they start to weaken and you have
    thumping, etc. They definitely did what I expected them to, though, gave
    me the worst-case scenario, and it wasn't bad.
    Yeah, I bet. I had forgotten the effect of regular oil on rubber, but
    you're quite right--it degrades quickly. I've never tried brake fluid on
    rubber, will have to do that. Can't stand touching the stuff.
    Abeness, Nov 14, 2004
  6. Abeness

    jim beam Guest

    some dealers are utterly unscrupulous.
    if you ever get brake fluid on paint, slosh water all over it asap.
    don't touch it. just keep running water on it for a few minutes, then
    let it dry naturally. when you're done, the paint will be fine. if you
    try wiping it off, the paint will come off with the wipe, & that's
    jim beam, Nov 14, 2004
  7. Abeness

    Abeness Guest

    Thanks for another good tip. I probably would've wiped ASAP and been
    Abeness, Nov 14, 2004
  8. Abeness

    Abeness Guest

    OK, the local store didn't have urea grease, but it doesn't have a huge
    selection. It did have CRC Synthetic Brake Caliper grease, marked for
    very high temp, made of Polyalphaolefin, etc. I can't see brake fluid
    being thick enough to stick around for very long in the slave cylinder
    boot, so I guess I'll use this stuff. Unfortunately, the urea gease
    apparently can't be shipped (so says slhonda), so I'll either have to
    get it from my local dealer or find an auto store that carries it.
    Abeness, Nov 16, 2004
  9. Abeness

    Abeness Guest

    Boy, urea grease is a hard-to-find item. Not at Pep Boys, AutoZone or
    Strauss, and non of them can get it, either. Dealer has a 1.7 oz. tub
    for $14.14!
    Abeness, Nov 16, 2004
  10. Abeness

    Mista Bone Guest

    just use high temp wheel bearing grease, $1.99 a tub at Autozone.
    Mista Bone, Nov 16, 2004
  11. Abeness

    SoCalMike Guest

    Mista Bone wrote:

    it wont mess up rubber seals?
    SoCalMike, Nov 17, 2004
  12. Abeness

    jim beam Guest

    there's an urea grease used in bike maintenence. sold by park tools.
    not sure if it's the spec that honda recommend, but it's definitely cheaper.
    jim beam, Nov 17, 2004
  13. Abeness

    Abeness Guest

    Thanks for the reference, but knowing as little about grease as I do, I
    decided to stick with the Honda stuff. I couldn't find much info about
    the park tools stuff--the materials safety data sheet mentioned
    petroleum, and that's I think what I want to keep away from the rubber.
    The Honda stuff says it's synthetic.

    So $15.36 for the grease and a whopping $3.65 for a 12-oz. bottle of
    fresh Honda power steering fluid later... Talk about ripoff.
    Abeness, Nov 18, 2004
  14. Abeness

    jim beam Guest

    you thank that's a rip? try $9 for 1.2oz!!!
    jim beam, Nov 18, 2004
  15. Abeness

    Abeness Guest

    Still got it beat: the Honda grease works out, pre-tax, to $8.32/oz. The
    stuff you mention is "only" $7.46/oz. Hah! <g>

    You're right, though, the pwr steering fluid is cheaper... ;-)
    Abeness, Nov 18, 2004
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