I need to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders on my 94 Civic. Any tips? Does it really matter whether I get OEM from e.g. Majestic, or aftermarket from the local store from which I *think* it will be somewhat less? I'm assuming that I need to buy the clutch master seal and cotter pin separately. Anything else I should have on hand? I'd obviously like to try to avoid having to run out to get stuff (barring unforeseen problems) while the car is unavailable. Can I assume that the reservoir hose clamp and hose will hold up in the transition from old master cylinder to new? And how about grease? The Helm manual lists "super high temp urea grease" and "brake assembly lube or equivalent rubber grease"--are these items that can be picked up easily at any auto parts store? I've got an old container of NLGI#2 lithium wheel bearing grease (Castrol) that's listed for high-temp applications (would have to be for bearings)--would that be an appropriate equivalent to the former? I know nothing of grease: what's the difference between lithium and urea greases? The Honda grease is $10 from slhonda, which seems excessive. Any info on potential gotchas will be appreciated, as this will be my first significant automotive job. It looks pretty straightforward and I'm far from a mechanical idiot. BTW, is the "Mity Vac Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit" a good choice, even though it's a bit pricey? I'm looking for somethig I can use to not only bleed the system, but also to suck the fluid out of the reservoir. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00947058000 Is there something better? Thanks!
how long you going to keep the car? some of the aftermarkets only last a couple of years. oem lasts at least 10. should. you'll find out! absolutely do /not/ use the castrol grease. the hydraulics use natural rubber which needs a silicone grease or plain old brake fluid to lube. anything else [like castrol] attacks the polymer making it first swell, then fall apart. on the actuator end, you can get away with a cheaper grease /if/ it doesn't creep. but if it does creep, like the castrol, the light elements work their way back towards the hydraulic end and contaminate the rubber... yes, the auto store should have both of the honda spec type greases, but be sure you stick to your requirements, not settle for "think this'll work". i just use a neighbor to press the pedal. costs me a beer.
For the few bucks extra, then, I'll go OEM. Just got the car, and plan to drive it into the ground. Right. Thanks! Exactly why I asked. So what is urea grease, anyway?
remember to change your hydraulic fluids yearly! old fluid has absorbed moisture which corrodes the metals in the moving parts. that in turn abrades the seals, then they leak. it also has much greater risk of vapor lock at high temperatures. finally, fresh fluid contains rubber preservatives & conditioners greatly improving life. i gather the poly-urea is just a highly stable thickening agent. i believe that normal thickeners, soaps, are not as good at higher temperatures. if you want to do some experiments, get some [natural] rubber bands, then smear one in each of these different greases, oil & brake fluid. then leave them in a safe place for a couple of weeks. you'll see some pretty dramatic differences when you come back to them.
Thanks a lot for the tip. I have to replace the clutch master and slave cuz they're both leaking, and lord knows if the gal I bought it from ever replaced the fluids. I've been meaning to replace the brake fluids (ABS included) ASAP for this very reason, and tranny oil too. Not that those clutch seals wouldn't have gone after 10 years anyway, of course. She neglected to give me the repair history when I picked up the car (yes, she had kept all her receipts), and then threw it out without asking if I wanted them! Unbelievable. Shame on me for not confirming that they were there. She did draw up a list of mileages at which some of the major things had been done (e.g. timing belt/water pump), but gads. Lucky for me the car is in great shape, despite the local dealer finding $3000 worth of repairs they could do when I had them inspect it (at $94/hr). Glad I know some stuff and got to see it on the rack... Just one example: they wanted to replace the front rotors for some $400 becase they were "rusted inside". Unh-hunh... that's what rotors do, man, and you don't replace them until they start to weaken and you have thumping, etc. They definitely did what I expected them to, though, gave me the worst-case scenario, and it wasn't bad. Yeah, I bet. I had forgotten the effect of regular oil on rubber, but you're quite right--it degrades quickly. I've never tried brake fluid on rubber, will have to do that. Can't stand touching the stuff.
some dealers are utterly unscrupulous. if you ever get brake fluid on paint, slosh water all over it asap. don't touch it. just keep running water on it for a few minutes, then let it dry naturally. when you're done, the paint will be fine. if you try wiping it off, the paint will come off with the wipe, & that's expensive!
OK, the local store didn't have urea grease, but it doesn't have a huge selection. It did have CRC Synthetic Brake Caliper grease, marked for very high temp, made of Polyalphaolefin, etc. I can't see brake fluid being thick enough to stick around for very long in the slave cylinder boot, so I guess I'll use this stuff. Unfortunately, the urea gease apparently can't be shipped (so says slhonda), so I'll either have to get it from my local dealer or find an auto store that carries it.
Boy, urea grease is a hard-to-find item. Not at Pep Boys, AutoZone or Strauss, and non of them can get it, either. Dealer has a 1.7 oz. tub for $14.14!
there's an urea grease used in bike maintenence. sold by park tools. not sure if it's the spec that honda recommend, but it's definitely cheaper. http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Grease+4oz+Tube&vendorCode=PARK&major=6&minor=7
Thanks for the reference, but knowing as little about grease as I do, I decided to stick with the Honda stuff. I couldn't find much info about the park tools stuff--the materials safety data sheet mentioned petroleum, and that's I think what I want to keep away from the rubber. The Honda stuff says it's synthetic. So $15.36 for the grease and a whopping $3.65 for a 12-oz. bottle of fresh Honda power steering fluid later... Talk about ripoff.
you thank that's a rip? try $9 for 1.2oz!!! http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Ring+Drive+Lube&vendorCode=KING&major=6&minor=7
Still got it beat: the Honda grease works out, pre-tax, to $8.32/oz. The stuff you mention is "only" $7.46/oz. Hah! <g> You're right, though, the pwr steering fluid is cheaper... ;-)
