engine stalls on hard braking

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by rollingthunder6, Sep 5, 2006.

  1. this pertains to a 1998 honda civic LX, at, ac, 163000 miles:
    recently during the last few months whenever i'm travelling at between
    20 and 40 mph and i've had to brake very suddenly and very hard, the
    engine stalls as soon as the car comes to complete stop. never used to
    do that before. engine starts up w/o any difficulty afterwards. a/c
    is NOT on when this happens. engine does NOT do this when i brake
    normally, i.e., non-panic stop.
    any ideas on what's causing this and what components to check? any
    advice would be greatly appreciated .....
    tia.
     
    rollingthunder6, Sep 5, 2006
    #1
  2. rollingthunder6

    jim beam Guest

    have you had the ignition switch recalled?
     
    jim beam, Sep 6, 2006
    #2

  3. ----------------------------------

    Are you sure your CHECK ENGINE light is functioning, and are there any
    CODES stored?

    'Curly'
     
    'Curly Q. Links', Sep 6, 2006
    #3
  4. no, haven't had any recall on the ignition switch
     
    rollingthunder6, Sep 7, 2006
    #4
  5. 'check engine' light comes on fine when you go to start the engine and
    then it goes out (normal operation). no codes are stored. 'check
    engine' light does not come as part of this problem except after the
    engine has stalled (and the other lights are on as well)
     
    rollingthunder6, Sep 7, 2006
    #5
  6. rollingthunder6

    jim beam Guest

    ok. there was a recall. if your ignition is defective, hard braking
    could be moving your key bunch about and upsetting an about-to-fail
    switch. go to the dealer and get the free recalled switch fitted - the
    problem should go away.
     
    jim beam, Sep 8, 2006
    #6
  7. This could be a problem with the brake power booster having an air
    leak. Does the engine stall if you apply the brakes hard while
    stationary?
     
    Gordon McGrew, Sep 8, 2006
    #7
  8. ok! thanks. i'll check out the other items on this thread as well,
    just on g.p., and take myself down to the dealer. thanks.
     
    rollingthunder6, Sep 8, 2006
    #8
  9. i'll check it out his weekend. thanks.
     
    rollingthunder6, Sep 8, 2006
    #9
  10. rollingthunder6

    nm5k Guest

    Wonder if your dashpot, or throttle control is functioning right...
    Normally, the throttle is held open a bit for say appx 3 seconds or
    so before it goes to idle. The purpose is to prevent stalling on hard
    stops due to the throttle cutting off too quick. You should be able to
    get an idea if it's working by goosing the throttle up to 3k or so, and

    quickly releasing. It should take about 3 seconds or so to totally cut
    back to idle. If it cuts back almost instantly, I'd check the
    idle/dashpot
    controls. Just thought I'd mention this being as no one has yet..
    MK
     
    nm5k, Sep 8, 2006
    #10
  11. rollingthunder6

    jim beam Guest

    not on a fuel injected car with electronic idle air control. and with
    carburetted cars, it depends on the design - many didn't have dash pots
    at all.

    btw, the reason the motor takes time to drop to idle speed is because of
    the momentum of the rotating crankshaft, flywheel [etc.] mass - it's not
    a function of carburetion.
     
    jim beam, Sep 9, 2006
    #11

  12. My 88 Tercel manual said that the throttle was held open to burn off
    fuel spray remaining in the intake manifold after the throttle suddenly
    closes. It was a CA and federal emissions component. It might have a
    different use in fuel injected cars, though.

    The idle screw is usually what prevents the stall. Even a modern car
    needs it set properly to avoid stalls.
     
    Kevin McMurtrie, Sep 9, 2006
    #12
  13. rollingthunder6

    jim beam Guest

    not on a fuel injected car with electronic idle air control. and with
    carburetted cars, it depends on the design - many didn't have dash pots
    at all.

    btw, the reason the motor takes time to drop to idle speed is because of
    the momentum of the rotating crankshaft, flywheel [etc.] mass - it's not
    a function of carburetion.
     
    jim beam, Sep 9, 2006
    #13
  14. rollingthunder6

    nm5k Guest

    I was thinking the idle air valve would control that. But I couldn't
    remember if it was computer driven, or used a dashpot for a slow
    release.

    and with
    My 89 accord with a carb does. Has a section in the manual covering
    the "dashpot system". But it seems to be part of the throttle
    controller.
    Well, yes, the flywheel, etc adds to it, but in the case of my car,
    it's also a function of the carb. The dashpot keeps the throttle
    controller
    arm from fully extending too fast. In checking the manual, they state
    the
    proper time is 1-3 seconds. They say if it's less than 1 second, or
    more
    than 3 seconds, to inspect the throttle control valve, vacuum, etc.
    I was thinking even the EFI cars had some type of slow throttle return,
    even though it's probably using a different method to achieve it. I
    was
    thinking it was controlled by the computer via the IAC...? Maybe not
    though..
    The "puter" manual I'm looking at now doesn't cover the EFI version,
    and
    my crappy haynes manual is out in the car.. I don't think it's normal
    for
    any of them to return to idle in less than 1 second. In the case of
    mine,
    they say it will, if the throttle controller/dashpot is not working
    right. So the
    flywheel inertia on it's own must not last too long.. BTW, the 1-3
    second
    return on mine is from 3500 rpm maintained for 2-3 seconds, and
    suddenly
    released.
    MK
     
    nm5k, Sep 11, 2006
    #14
  15. got the switch replaced, checked (i did) all vacuum lines, + the idle
    air control valve still having the same problem
     
    rollingthunder6, Sep 19, 2006
    #15
  16. no, it does not stall when brakes are applied hard when car is
    stationary.
     
    rollingthunder6, Sep 19, 2006
    #16
  17. rollingthunder6

    jim beam Guest

    hmmm. does it stagger to a halt with the motor fighting against the
    brakes, or does the motor smoothly cut out? if the lockout clutch on
    the transmission is not releasing quickly enough, that could stall it.
    also check the idle speed is set correctly. basically, [with a fully
    warm engine] disconnect the iacv and adjust the idle screw to achieve
    750 rpm. iacv's don't adjust too quickly, so if you stop too fast,
    maybe it's go too far to adjust and can't get there fast enough? [guessing]

    other than that, look for an electrical problem. is there any
    mechanical componentry floating about or loose connections under the
    dash that could be disrupting power to the ecu or ignition? any bad
    stereo installations?
     
    jim beam, Sep 20, 2006
    #17
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