Engine cuts out when clutch depressed but only after warmup

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by myaccordcoupe, Jan 15, 2007.

  1. My 1999 Accord Coupe engine cuts out whenever the clutch is depressed.
    Seems to be fine when the engine is cold in that the revs only drop
    slightly but as soon as the engine is warm and I press the clutch to
    change gear the engine cuts out completely. It will restart
    immediately as long as the battery has enough charge (recently had to
    replace battery as it kept draining). Pulls fine whilst in gear. Local
    garage has had it for 3 days and are stumped, currently suggesting
    total engine replacement !! Any suggestions or similar experience.
    Please help!
    myaccordcoupe, Jan 15, 2007
  2. It may seem completely out in left field, but they should verify the engine
    ground is still good. Bad engine grounds make for a lot of really weird
    effects, and they are really not that uncommon.

    One of my brothers once worked in a stereo installation bay. One guy brought
    his car back because the stereo didn't work. Naturally, when he tried to
    demonstrate it worked fine. Eventually they found that the radio worked when
    the parking brake was on but not when it was released! The engine ground was
    bad, and the parking brake grounded the engine when the cable was tight in
    the sheath. When the cable was released the ground was lost and the radio
    didn't work... the battery got its ground through the engine.

    Michael Pardee, Jan 15, 2007
  3. Forgot to mention - I see no reason total engine replacement would help at
    all. The only internal failure I can imagine doing anything like this would
    be a bad thrust bearing (do Hondas have those?)... and that can be checked
    by measuring the play when the crank pulleys are pulled out and pushed in. I
    think they just want you and your problem to go away by telling you it would
    be outrageously expensive to proceed.

    Michael Pardee, Jan 15, 2007
  4. myaccordcoupe

    jim beam Guest

    Michael Pardee wrote:
    that's the truth!

    i think you have a good point with looking for internal electrics.
    other things to look for include brake vacuum. it's common for the
    engine to stall if the servo vacuum is leaking - and typically, you
    press the brake at the same time as the clutch, but when driving, the
    engine will only stall when the clutch is disengaged. doesn't usually
    happen until the engine is warm.
    jim beam, Jan 15, 2007
  5. Something finally filtered through my aging mind... the clutch has to be
    depressed to start the engine. How does it behave when you try to restart
    after it dies? It may not mean much, but if it cranks normally (whether it
    fires or not) it rules out the engine per se.

    Michael Pardee, Jan 15, 2007
  6. Mike, thanks for the suggestion, I think you were probably right about
    the garage as we picked the car up on Saturday because they still had
    no ideas. Luckily it was only 1 1/2 miles to home and it died just as
    we rolled onto the drive.
    Will check out your other suggestions now we have access to the car
    again. Noticed as well that when running cold on the drive and the
    clutch is depressed the clutch is quite noisy, grating noise?
    myaccordcoupe, Jan 15, 2007
  7. The clutch noise isn't a good thing, but not necessarily related to the
    engine problem. Talking about this with my son, we're really curious about
    the battery drain symptom. If that is happening with the new battery
    (battery isn't charging right) I'd recommend chasing that problem. I have a
    hunch that the fix for that is also the fix for the engine cutting out.

    If you have access to a digital voltmeter the info and tests in Elle's site
    at http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id13.html will tell you what's
    going on there. If you don't have a digital voltmeter, this is a good time
    to buy one. An adequate one can be had for $20 US these days, and I recently
    bought a simple one for $6.95 US. The engine ground can be tested by
    watching for voltage between the engine and the body; it should never go
    over a tenth of a volt or two.

    Michael Pardee, Jan 16, 2007
  8. myaccordcoupe

    Jim Yanik Guest

    I'd watch out for Harbor Freight's cheapo DMMs;I got one that read WAY too
    high for a 1.5V alkaline battery,like 1.8-1.9Volts.
    I took it back and exchanged it for another one that read right.
    I'm still unsure about the AC volts accuracy.
    Fortunately,I have a much better 4.5 digit DMM,too.
    Jim Yanik, Jan 16, 2007
  9. myaccordcoupe

    Tegger Guest

    Your clutch release bearing is dragging on the pressure plate fingers and
    is probably getting ready to bust through them.

    The drag is slowing the engine down. (This used to happen from the factory
    on certain old BMC models that had carbon release bearings.)

    Time to get a new clutch. And really soon. If the bearing pokes through the
    fingers, an awful lot of stuff can get torn up.
    Tegger, Jan 17, 2007
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