design flaw : F20A 's air intake gets useless heat from radiator*coolant

* via thermostat is steel-piped next to & heat is transferred into
rocker cover's breather hose
www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d800cf9d1.gif
, this heated air is then sucked through PCV valve & into intake
manifold.chamber [ii] rubber-hosed into bottom of throttle body
www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d800cf4a6.gif
, & heat flows into the air passing throttle.
Both designs make air intake & cylinder head unduly hot
www.circletrack.com/techarticles/1822/ : whenever intake manifold
heats up ( esp in long trips ), torque drops & warm-starts are difficult
, both because hot air cannot expand much when heated. Ideal
temperature of air to receive injectors' spray of petrol is just 40°C =
104°F ( www.turborick.com/gsxr1127/gasoline.html para 10.2[7] ).
Intake manifold where injectors spray petrol ( near cylinder head ) &
chamber already get heat from manifold's contact with cylinder head,
EAC & Fast Idle valves ( both heated by * ), certainly do not need
more heat. If designer wanted manifold to heat up fast, then throttle
body must have a thermostat to stop * inflow when throttle is heated
to 40°C. These 2 designs make steep hill climbing slow & weak ; *
& air intake will both be @ their hottest, & torque will be lowest (
ironically, when torque is needed most ).
After I disabled these 2 designs, in 28°C air, chamber, manifold
& cylinder head are cooler, benefits are many e.g. 1 can use ( cheaper
) mineral oil & lower viscosity [ii] torque ( 5% > before ) does not
drop after * heats up [iii] warm-starts are easier.

 

There isn't supposed to be much air flowing through a PCV system.

Maybe the thermostat for your throttle body, if it has one, is faulty.
It's supposed to keep it warm, not hot.

Maybe you fixed a symptom, not a problem? Your posting is hardly clear.

 

There isn't supposed to be much air flowing through a PCV system.

Maybe the thermostat for your throttle body, if it has one, is faulty.
It's supposed to keep it warm, not hot.

Maybe you fixed a symptom, not a problem? Your posting is hardly clear.

 

TE Chea wrote:
<snip>

you need to stop drinking the "cold air intake" coolaid there guy. it
may be fine for you kidz in the nice warm county of l.a. to run about
with disabled de-icing equipment, but anywhere else in the country, it
becomes a bit of an issue when your car sputters to a halt because of
ice buildup.

as an aside, i had my air intake cover off the other day, and forgot to
screw it on tightly. the screws worked their way out after a few
hundred miles, and the air intake cover popped off. it was noticeable
by two things:

1. increased noise. ok, ho hum.

2. big /decrease/ in power. the "ultimate" cold air intake, i.e. no
intake at all produces /less/ power???!!! yep, you better believe it.

now, it's possible that some aftermarket manufacturers of air intakes
know what they're doing and understand airflow resonance dynamics and
the effect it has on engine air induction, but somehow i doubt most of
them do. but hey, most of this stuff is not for performance, it's just
for show...

 

TE Chea wrote:
<snip>

you need to stop drinking the "cold air intake" coolaid there guy. it
may be fine for you kidz in the nice warm county of l.a. to run about
with disabled de-icing equipment, but anywhere else in the country, it
becomes a bit of an issue when your car sputters to a halt because of
ice buildup.

as an aside, i had my air intake cover off the other day, and forgot to
screw it on tightly. the screws worked their way out after a few
hundred miles, and the air intake cover popped off. it was noticeable
by two things:

1. increased noise. ok, ho hum.

2. big /decrease/ in power. the "ultimate" cold air intake, i.e. no
intake at all produces /less/ power???!!! yep, you better believe it.

now, it's possible that some aftermarket manufacturers of air intakes
know what they're doing and understand airflow resonance dynamics and
the effect it has on engine air induction, but somehow i doubt most of
them do. but hey, most of this stuff is not for performance, it's just
for show...

 

<SNIP>
does not drop after * heats up [iii] warm-starts are easier.

 

<SNIP>
does not drop after * heats up [iii] warm-starts are easier.

 

His post makes no sense. I read it twice and still can make neither head
nor tail out of it.

 

His post makes no sense. I read it twice and still can make neither head
nor tail out of it.

 

Uh,the air intake is still from the hot under-hood air.All you did was
shorten the intake runner length,which reduces torque.
If you don't believe cold air enables more power,then explain why racers
put scoops and ducts on their race cars.It wouldn't make sense,adding more
drag to get cold air that doesn't produce more power.

 

Uh,the air intake is still from the hot under-hood air.All you did was
shorten the intake runner length,which reduces torque.
If you don't believe cold air enables more power,then explain why racers
put scoops and ducts on their race cars.It wouldn't make sense,adding more
drag to get cold air that doesn't produce more power.

 

uh, i understand how it works thanks. what i'm saying is that it's not
so simple as most of the "cai" crowd believes. if the intake tubing is
tuned correctly, i.e. resonances are set specifically, it enhances the
air charge entering the engine. done right, it flattens/broadens
power/torque curves. otherwise you're stuck with huge flat spots in the
engine's performance, exactly what i was experiencing.

"tuning" the air charge has /way/ more effect than the minor density
differences made by a few degrees of ambient air temperature.

 

uh, i understand how it works thanks. what i'm saying is that it's not
so simple as most of the "cai" crowd believes. if the intake tubing is
tuned correctly, i.e. resonances are set specifically, it enhances the
air charge entering the engine. done right, it flattens/broadens
power/torque curves. otherwise you're stuck with huge flat spots in the
engine's performance, exactly what i was experiencing.

"tuning" the air charge has /way/ more effect than the minor density
differences made by a few degrees of ambient air temperature.

 

I think one of your modifications is allowing carbon monoxide into the
cabin.

 

I think one of your modifications is allowing carbon monoxide into the
cabin.

 

http://groups.google.com.tr/group/Taner___53_01?lnk=li&hl=tr

 

http://groups.google.com.tr/group/Taner___53_01?lnk=li&hl=tr

 

If Honda Tuning Magazine still has the article,they did flow bench and dyno
tests on an RSX for several different brands of short rams and two cold air
intakes.They did a reference test on the unaltered vehicle,then tested each
intake system.Both CAIs got 20HP and modest torque increases.The short rams
only got 5-7 HP gains. They included their graphs in the magazine
article.They also discussed the effect of intake air temperature WRT making
power.

It was a very informative article.Maybe you can get a back issue.

 

If Honda Tuning Magazine still has the article,they did flow bench and dyno
tests on an RSX for several different brands of short rams and two cold air
intakes.They did a reference test on the unaltered vehicle,then tested each
intake system.Both CAIs got 20HP and modest torque increases.The short rams
only got 5-7 HP gains. They included their graphs in the magazine
article.They also discussed the effect of intake air temperature WRT making
power.

It was a very informative article.Maybe you can get a back issue.

 

* via thermostat is steel-piped next to & heat is transferred into

What a laugh! I just read through some as well. I love this one: "Bonnet's
rubber seals & felt, front wheels' hub caps too can be removed, to help cool
engine."

Sounds like his problem is the loose nut between the steering wheel and the
driver's seat.

Steve