CV Wheel Nut

Hi, Its a 92 Acura Intregra, and we are trying to replace the drivers
side cv axle. The problem is the nut is seized on and rusted out... its
even stripped. What would you use to get the nut off?

 

The last resort for that kind of thing is an air chisel. Are you sure it's
too stripped (I presume you mean rounded) for a 6 point impact socket? Even
without rust those are *awfully* tight and best done with an impact wrench.

Mike

 

Split one last week that was like that. My 3/4" heavy truck air impact
gun makes 340 foot pounds of torque, and didn't work. Then, I put my
1/2" Craftsman heavy bar on my 6 point impackt socket, along with my
long hydralic jack handle, and put all my 300 pounds on it, and snapped
the wrecker bar. would have used my 3/4" bar, but, it is somewhere in
one of my other tool boxes... plus, the long jack handle won't fit over
the thing...

So, split the nut. Used a cold steel hand chisel and my 2 pound sledge,
and wore goggles... took about ten minutes.

 

i'd be interested to see how long your wheel bearings last after that!

the real deal solution, that runs no risk of damage to the bearings, is
an air impact driver. a good quality driver connected to a high volume
air supply with 1/2" hose will shift it in about 3 seconds.

 

If such trauma damaged the wheel bearings, the noise would be immediate.

It's worth trying an electric DeWalt impact gun. You can rent them for
about $25 per day from most industrial rental places.

The DeWalt is capable of 325 ft lbs of torque and does not require a
compressor. It is one impressively powerful piece of equipment. I'm sure
one day I will come across a bolt that mine won't shift, but that day
has not yet arrived.

 

not necessarily. for badly brinelled bearings, yes, but the effect can
be much more insidious.

i've been resisting it, but i may break down and get an electric impact.
a cordless version that i can take junkyard surfing is /real/
attractive.

 

I see what you're getting at. You're thinking surface damage that may
not be apparent until it begins flaking. I was thinking little dents in
the races, which would cause a howl right away.

You won't regret it, believe me. It makes things SO much easier. No
longer is your heart in your throat with every bolt you tackle. You
actually have confidence that you'll be able to finish a job quickly and
easily.

And it makes removing wheels a breeze.

Haven't tried one of those myself, but others I know who have say
they're wonderful.

The only problem I've found with the electric guns is their extreme
bulk. They're just about useless in an engine bay or other tight spots,
even with U-joints. But anywhere you have lots of room, they're
great.That means axle nuts, suspension bolts, crank pulley bolts,
subframe bolts, that sort of thing.

One of the best tools I ever bought, outside of the balljoint puller. I
used both of those when I changed my alternator a few weeks ago. What a
time-saver.

 

more like little dents become bigger dents. bit like a "flat tire" on a
railroad car. a tiny flat spot becomes a big one just through use.

flaking is spalling caused by fatigue. that's usually overload or
abrasion damage scratching the running surfaces - and those scratches
then nucleate fatigue.

 

A torch does wonders.

 

yeah, it ruins bearings and bearing seals. wonderful.

 

Now im not talking "Red" hot here.A slight touch with a torch for ten
seconds or so and wait for a minute to let the heat travel through is
sufficient.Done it several times and no bearing or seal was hurt
during the telecast.Maybe it's where experience comes into play.

 

i have plenty of experience - i used to do this stuff for a living and
probably know more about emergency field repairs than most. the steel
used in ball bearings starts to soften at only a couple of hundred
degrees centigrade. seals cook well before that. you probably won't
notice an immediate effect, but it will definitely have a "down the
road" detrimental effect on bearing life and sealing.

if you don't have the gear, the guaranteed safe and absolutely most
effective strategy is to drive it to the local shop and have them spin
it off with the proper air tool. a couple of beers for the guys is
/way/ cheaper than a new bearing.