CRX ELECTRICAL- Odd batt drain - A little more info please.

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Meatman, Jun 24, 2008.

  1. Meatman

    Meatman Guest

    Originally posted here...I can't find it to paste in. Bottom line:
    batt drains seemingly at random til car is dead, dead, dead. Can
    happen driving or overnight. New batt. Alt OK. Fuses OK. Test
    light showed no parasitic draw with multiple tests over time.

    So: I did it differently this time. I hooked the V/O meter up to
    check for batt drain and sure enough you could watch it falling off
    from 12.5v down to the high 10's low 11's...until I pulled the fuse
    for the interior lighting circuit when it stabilized. Further
    discovered that if the driver's door is closed (circuit supposedly
    open) I get the voltage leak-off. If door is open everythink is OK.
    Passenger door switch does not cause same behaviour. Chased wires and
    saw that drivers door switch wire(just one) only runs to the passenger
    door switch. That is to say that this wire appears to only have 2
    points, A and B, and goes nowhere else in the car. This circuit only
    seems to connect the two door switches. If true, how the hell does
    this circuit operate? I thought I was so close. Help guys! Thanks.

    Kevin
     
    Meatman, Jun 24, 2008
    #1
  2. Meatman

    jim beam Guest

    be methodical and forget the light switches for the moment. get a 12V
    bulb, and use it as a dummy fuse for each of the smaller fuses in both
    fuse boxes. if it lights, whichever fuse you have shows which circuit
    to trace. if it doesn't light, measure the voltage across it. if you
    have voltage, you have current, and you need to check that circuit.
    bear in mind that some circuits are "always on", notably the ecu,
    stereo, etc.

    having determined which circuit, look for obvious problems. stereo
    installations are very common fault points. start at one end of a
    circuit and follow through to the other. anywhere where factory wiring
    has been cut or altered is a suspect.

    or it could be something simple like a trunk light. the above circuit
    testing will tell you.

    going back to your door switches, it's common for the less-used switch
    to corrode internally. unscrew, clean and reinstall with a little
    silicone grease on it. the circuit works by having a live light feed
    and grounding it to complete the circuit. but a switch that doesn't
    make contact is not your problem. and you shouldn't be getting a "leak"
    if the switch is working properly. if the door is open, the circuit
    should make and the cabin light should come on.
     
    jim beam, Jun 25, 2008
    #2
  3. Meatman

    motsco_ Guest

    ================

    Honda ran the door switch / interior light through some models of the
    stereo because the alarm was piggy-backed onto the stereo. Sounds like
    your stereo may be a good place to start. To drain your battery from
    12.5 to high 10's should have taken days, or you'd be producing HEAT
    somewhere. You sure the battery is a good one? Check and clean the
    ground for the battery's black wire. What's your year and mileage again?

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Jun 25, 2008
    #3
  4. Meatman

    Meatman Guest

    To motsco and Beam:
    1988 CRX DX 240k. No alarm :) Also there is no "internal part of
    this switch. In one position wire connected to sliding tab touches
    switch body that is grounded to frame. In the other position(open
    circuit) the tab does not touch the switch body and therefore not the
    frame either. No internal mechanism involved. I think I know which
    circuit to trace already as you'll read below but something doesn't
    jive---> Stumper is that the wire, the ONLY wire, from the door
    switch(es) only seem to connect one another...a swear to god they
    do...and to nothing else in the car. I've even got the carpet out.
    Battery is new since I parked car due to this problem. It ran down,
    of course, I charged it up over night and part of next day and the
    charger never shut off showing the battery to be fully charged. THEN
    after I removed the interior light fuse I put it back on charge on a
    4A medium charge and it charged properly and the the charger
    registered a full charge and shut off unlike when the fuse was in.
    Interior lights illuminate properly and when they are supposed to
    (door open/closed). All fuses have been pulled singly in testing and
    this is the only one that is suspect. And like I said, even wierder,
    is that the pass door switch does NOT seem to cause the same problem,
    Clearly I've missed something or this is waaay simpler than it
    appears. Thanks fellas.

    Kevin
     
    Meatman, Jun 25, 2008
    #4
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