CRV Valve Tick After Adjustment and a few other questions.

I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted.

before (it had 60k on the odo when I purchased). As per the info I got
from this forum, I had them adjusted to the loose side of spec. Now
when the vehicle is idling I hear a tick-tick from the driver side
valve area. It's not a constant ticking that repeats in a distinctive
pattern but sort of a random tick-tick that comes and goes. Any
thoughts? Something to worry about? Cause? cure? Just let it be?

I already had the rear-diff squeal and changed the fluid myself and
it's a silent as can be now, thank you to the forum for that info. Also
looking to replace the timing belt, water-pump and idler pulleys(sp?)
at 90k, too soon? Not soon enough?

Tires, it has winter treads (they can take studs) and the tire noise is
pretty loud. Are passenger car tires ok as a replacement? Was looking
at Khumo Touring 795 A/S and Hankook Mileage Plus II H725's. Had the
Kumho's before on a mini-van and presently have them on a Ford
Countour. Does the CRV need an SUV/Truck tire?

And lastly, this thing has so many clunks and bangs from the
suspension, it's very irritating. The dealer says they found nothing
abnormal and according to the work order "found no abnormal noises,
sounds like similar vehicles. What???? Honda engineered and built a
vehicle that sounds like this on purpose? They said the bushing are
good. Any suggestions on that?

TIA.

 

Does the ticking go away as the car warms up?

Do you have an owner's manual? It gives the miles/years for the timing belt.

 

Is that the same owners manual that tells me to have the valves
adjusted at 105k or only if they get noisy? Change rear differential
fluid at 90k?

I'm sure most would agree that both those intervals are wrong, and the
valve interval being followed according to the manual could result in a
very expensive repair bill, that's why I was asking about the timing
belt/water pump.

 

I guess that's a no.

But I don't really know.

One wiseass tends to dampen volunteer enthusiasm.

 

I'm not sure where you want to go with this.

Yes, I have an owners manual and it has information in it that is
considered wrong among Honda enthusiasts. Hence there is good reason to
seek the advice of others regardless of what the owners manual tells
me.

I could say the same thing about your "owners manual" reply. I wasn't
being a wise-ass, I was stressing that the manual is not always
correct. There are cases where simply directing someone to their owners
manual can be costly, I'm trying to avoid that.

 

wrote in

One valve is slightly too loose. As long as you can stand the noise, just
let it be. A loose valve is a happy valve.

However, if the noise changes, get it looked at just to make sure somebody
didn't forget to tighten a locknut or something.

Mostly Curly, I'd suspect. He's been the primary promulgator of diff fluid
problem solutions.

I thought it was over 105K by 1999? Still got an owner's manual?

 

From our perspective there is a wide range of timing belt recommended change
intervals among the various Honda/Acura models and years out there. The
owner's manual is going to be a lot better than any guess all but the most
deeply knowledgable of us could provide. It is way beyond me.

Mike

 

If it's happy, I'm happy.

Will do. Thank you.

I believe that is correct. I was freaking when I first heard it, all's
quiet now.

Yes, it says 105k. I was wondering if I should have it done sooner as I
haven't found many records for this vehicle, thinking maybe some things
should be done sooner if the previous owner was lax in doing proper
maintenance
The dealer shows 3 records, only one being an oil change. I didn't do
my homework before buying and the lack of records has me a little
worried. I realize he/she may have done things themselves, but I don't
know at this point.

Yes, dumb on my part.

 

Yes, I appreciate that. As I explained in another post, there is a lack
of records of things being done to this vehicle by the previous owner,
I should have asked that if maintenance was lax, should some things be
done sooner than the owners manual states.

 

wrote in

It's 105K or seven years as I recall.

Hondas have what are known as "interference" engines. When the belt snaps,
you risk seriously expensive damage.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#interference
Doesn't mean it WILL get damaged, just that the risk is exponentially
higher.

Having said that, the ones that break are taken *considerably* over their
limits. It appears Honda builds in quite a safety factor into their
schedule. But do you really want to take the chance?

Paranoia is a very useful thing when buying a used car. Very few owners pay
any sort of attention to maintenance and repair.

 

No wise-assness was intended. Many Honda owners do not know that the owner's
manual has a maintenance schedule in it.

IMO the valve lash adjustment frequency has declined over the years because
of better technology. My 91 Civic's owner manual recommends a certain
frequency, and it has worked fine.

I can't comment on your differential fluid objection.

Timing belt frequencies in the owner's manual are also considered to be
accurate, based on my reading and my own work with my Honda.

IIRC the 99 CRV manual says 7 years or 105k miles for normal driving
conditions. Since you're about at the 7-year mark, and assuming I am
remembering correctly, then yes, do the timing belt within the next 12
months. It is said by shops and amateurs alike to do the water pump at the
same time, because of the overlap in labor, and the expected life of the
water pump is the same. As for the idler pulley, I'd go with the manual. If
the manual says nothing on it, keep checking back. Certain timing
belt-related parts can be done every other timing belt change.

On the other hand, if you haven't any idea how the vehicle was driven
previously, and I'm wrong about the 7 years, doing the timing belt now is a
good idea. Severe driving conditions of course reduce the time and mileage
interval for the timing belt. These conditions are listed in the owner's
manual...

 

No problem.

I'm not sure I follow you on this. My rear diff was noisy the first
time the 4wd kicked in and I was alarmed until I searched here and
found the cure, changing the fluid. I had visions of costly repairs
until I read what was causing it.

Good advice, thank you.

That is what prompted my concern, few records from the previous owner
have me thinking I should have it done sooner to be on the safe side.
Thanks.

 

I just meant that I am not read up on the subject. I am in no position to
dispute your finding. But if Curly was the one who steered you this way,
that does not surprise me. He is one of many fine contributors here with
important experience to share.

Hopefully more will chime in with comments on the tires and suspension, etc.
I am a mere, puny 91 Civic owner.

 

<SNIP>
European manuals say 50,000Km for the valves (30,000 Miles). The Dual
pump Fluid only lasts 50,000 Km / two years.
An oil change might make that valve quiet down, but Tegger's right, it's
a 'happy valve' as long as the mechanic didn't fail tighten the locknut

Add all the extra DOTS to your owner's manual maintenance schedule, and
you'll impress the person you sell it to in ten years.
The TBelt has 6 years on it. I think it's time anyway. Personally, I
wouldn't change the water pump unless I knew the former owner was using
non-honda coolant or TAP WATER (Hondacide). The idler pulley will
probably last until the fourth or fifth TBelt, unless you're someplace
really hot.

'Curly'

 

Do a google (or eBay) search for rear stabilizer links. You can get two
for the price of one on eBay. The get very noisy when going over bumps.
Clack clack. For the road test your dealer sent a mechanic who wears no
hearing protection while using air tools. Find a bumpy dirt road and get
your helper to (carefully) hang out the tailgate or door to see where
it's coming from. You're supposed to be able to get them off with a
14?mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench, but you should have a nut-splitter
at the ready to cut the frustration level down.

'Curly'

 

Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve?

It's like random,
tick-tick-pause-pause-pause-tick-pause-pause-tick-tick-tick...

I just changed the oil about 3 weeks ago. I assume I'd have to open the
valve cover to see if it's the locknut? It's been run about 2500 miles
since I first noticed the ticking, if it was the locknut, would it have
done something more by now, like fall off or cause some other problem?
I've never done something like pull the valve cover on a vehicle so I'm
a little apprehensive at that prospect.

I'm gonna run it forever.

That's my main problem, no info on what the past owner did or didn't do
or what they used. I'll get that TBelt replaced then. Thanks for the
great info, all of you.

 

Thanks for that bit of info. I'll get my wife to drive it tomorrow
while I hang out back and listen.

 

--------------------------------

A camcorder (a light one) does a great job when you can't get your own
ear in close.

'Curly'

 

---
Sounds more like your PCV clicking. Use a couple feet of garden hose or
heater hose to listen for it. Pinch the hose and see if it changes the
noise.

----------------------
if it was the locknut, would it have

----
You'd have a misfire indication, or backfiring, or 25% power loss by now
(we were pulling your leg a bit)

------------------------

---
Find the dealer where they had it serviced and just walk in. Tell them
you're the new owner (have registration in your pocket) and ask if
they'd please give you PRINTS of all the service. It always works for
me. Have them photocopy your registration and fax it to Honda CORPORATE
(whatever country you are in). Then you'll get future notification of
recalls, etc. While there, get the other info like actual date in
service, which location sold it, whether the ignition switch recall was
performed, and other outstanding recalls. Have you got the real owner's
manual, and the radio CODE (if needed)?


'Curly'

 

Thanks for all the advice. Contacted the dealer today. I have the
original manual. Vehicle has an aftermarket CD player/radio that uses a
code that I picked myself.