Crush Washer

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by 76steelers, Oct 12, 2005.

  1. 76steelers

    76steelers Guest

    I don't have a Honda Dealer close by. Can I go to my local hardware
    store to get a crush washer? Or is there something special about them,
    that they have to be bought at the Honda Dealer?
     
    76steelers, Oct 12, 2005
    #1
  2. 76steelers

    butch burton Guest

    I used the same one on a honda for 15 years and 200K miles - almost no
    drips. Only have 8 years and 190K on the current crush washer - expect
    to get at least 250K out of this one.
     
    butch burton, Oct 12, 2005
    #2
  3. 76steelers

    BE Guest

    I bought a bunch on-line... Google it...
     
    BE, Oct 12, 2005
    #3
  4. 76steelers

    Elle Guest

    I have started buying OEM honda oil filters and crush washers and any other
    parts I think I'll need in the future (to save on shipping) at
    www.slhonda.com.

    I have a vague recollection Autozone and Pep Boys sells crush washers, too.

    Don't re-use the old washer. They lose their "spring" after awhile (like
    after one use?), which means you'll have to torque more for the same amount
    of sealing effect. Ultimately risking the stripping of threads.
     
    Elle, Oct 12, 2005
    #4
  5. 76steelers

    Paul Guest

    : I don't have a Honda Dealer close by. Can I go to my local hardware
    : store to get a crush washer? Or is there something special about them,
    : that they have to be bought at the Honda Dealer?
    :
    When I could no longer find the real crush washers (metal and rubber), I
    started using the nylon kind. They work quite well, but they can be a bit
    difficult to find. Pep Boys used to carry them, maybe still do.

    The all-metal kind you can get from the dealer work OK too.

    Paul
     
    Paul, Oct 12, 2005
    #5
  6. 76steelers

    TeGGeR® Guest

    wrote in

    You can use anythng you like. If you substitute nylon or gasket material,
    drop your torque to 20 ft/lbs from 33, otherwise you risk overstressing the
    pan threads.

    Actually, I use the Honda all-aluminum washer sold up here, and torque to
    31 ft/lbs. I used gasket material for years.
     
    TeGGeR®, Oct 12, 2005
    #6
  7. 76steelers

    SoCalMike Guest

    im still using the same crush washer that came with my 98 civic. thats
    something like 10 oil changes, no leaks. so if you cant get one
    immediately, dont sweat it.
     
    SoCalMike, Oct 13, 2005
    #7
  8. 76steelers

    mikepier Guest

    I got mine from the local auto store.
     
    mikepier, Oct 13, 2005
    #8
  9. The one from the dealers is an exact fit. The all-aluminium crush
    washer from the hardware store will come in all shape and sizes,
    which works fine if they cover the nut.

    Reusing them can lead to leaks months later or risk scarring the oil
    pan's washer surface because of debris and the tendancy to
    overtighten. Once scarred, you may never reuse any washers.
     
    Burt Squareman, Oct 14, 2005
    #9
  10. Never heard of all-metal kind.
     
    Burt Squareman, Oct 14, 2005
    #10
  11. 76steelers

    TeGGeR® Guest


    That's all you can get in Canada from the dealer.

    Doesn't matter one whit whether there's rubber in the washer or not.
    Successful sealing is quite independent of the materials used.
     
    TeGGeR®, Oct 14, 2005
    #11
  12. Ditto. I've used the original on my 90 accord. Estimate 50 oil
    changes. Carport floor is still clean as a whistle.

    Frank
     
    Frank Boettcher, Oct 14, 2005
    #12
  13. 76steelers

    76steelers Guest

    Thanks everyone for the input.
     
    76steelers, Oct 14, 2005
    #13
  14. 76steelers

    Mike Doyle Guest

    Has anyone tried the Fram Sure Drain?
    It replaces the drain plug with a one way
    valve. You remove the cap, & attach a
    drain hose. Drain the oil right into an
    empty jug.
     
    Mike Doyle, Oct 15, 2005
    #14
  15. 76steelers

    jim beam Guest

    i wouldn't. just another point for potential failure. it gets real
    expensive to dump your oil on the freeway 2 hours from civilization.
     
    jim beam, Oct 16, 2005
    #15
  16. 76steelers

    Mike Doyle Guest


    I don't see why this would be more likely to fail than the drain plug.
    I've run one for over a year in a Chevy truck with no problems, &
    put one on my 94 VX when I bought it. So far, no problems, no
    crush washers.

    YMMV
     
    Mike Doyle, Oct 16, 2005
    #16
  17. 76steelers

    jim beam Guest

    mike, /you/ can do whatever you want. /i/ wouldn't use it. with a
    standard plug, you only have the threads and washer to fail. and those
    are pretty reliable. with a drain attachment as you describe, you have
    the thread, the washer, the valve mechanism, the valve seal and an
    unproven material. /you/ may be happy with this on your vehicle, but it
    is unarguably a significant increase in points of potential failure!
     
    jim beam, Oct 16, 2005
    #17
  18. 76steelers

    Burt S. Guest

    I don't know how many times I've driven over uneven road surfaces,
    curbs or debris on the freeway. This is a failure waiting to happen
    if Fram Sure Drain is protruding like this image:

    http://www.motorcities.com/photo/view/02LQF345838026C.jpeg/0/

    The Fram Sure Drain is spring loaded (see image at bottom) with
    a tightness of about 5-8 lbs then why would Honda specify 28-30
    lb for a nut and washer?

    This device also uses an o-ring which can age over time. There are
    no o-rings comparable to Honda genuine o-rings. This device also
    has a small opening, probably in conjunction with a spring,
    could prevent large debris such as crud from fully draining which
    could wreck the motor.

    Overall, Honda's oil pan nut is one solid object with large openings
    that is designed well, practical and predictable.

    http://rustysoffroad.com/media/fram/fram_suredrain_05.jpg
     
    Burt S., Oct 16, 2005
    #18
  19. The oil drain plug is a simple easy to get to and use device. The only thing
    I would consider putting a valve in is my boat motor. That plug is
    impossible to get to and I have to vacuum the oil out through the dipstick
    in order to change it.
    KH
     
    Kevin in San Diego, Oct 16, 2005
    #19
  20. 76steelers

    butch burton Guest

    "This is a failure waiting to happen
    if Fram Sure Drain is protruding like this image"

    Someone has a web site in which they have disassembled every major
    brands oil filters and revealed how these things are put together.
    ALso on that site are comments by former people who worked for Fram
    before being bought out by allied signal. If their "valve" is anything
    like what they have done to oil filters - RUN.
     
    butch burton, Oct 16, 2005
    #20
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