CR-V Fuel pump labor

Discussion in 'CR-V' started by ciggy, Jan 14, 2009.

  1. ciggy

    ciggy Guest

    My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried to
    restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this means
    it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the fuel pump
    failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when he cranked
    the engine. Is that a valid test?

    He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to remove
    the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my repair
    manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat that leads to
    the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The mechanic said it
    would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the fuel pump with an
    aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket replacement pumps cost
    anywhere from $35 to $220 online.

    Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it to
    replace the fuel pump?

    ciggy, Jan 14, 2009
  2. When the car died, did any warning lights come on? If not, the cause may
    likely be the ignition switch. Chances are your car was part of that
    massive ignition switch recall from a few years back.

    Another possibility: I'm not completely sure, but I think the engine in this
    version of CR-V uses a timing belt. If the timing belt has never been
    replaced (and it would have been overdue by now), it may have broken and
    possibly damaged the valves, resulting in big bucks to fix.

    But have the issue properly troubleshot and diagnosed first before
    attempting to replace parts at random.
    Eternal Searcher, Jan 14, 2009
  3. ciggy

    jack42038 Guest

    In answer to your questions.

    1. That is a valid way to test for the presence of gas. If you are
    cranking the engine to start it, and the engine doesn't start, then it
    should flood if there is gas coming up front. You usually can smell a
    flooded engine. There are more reliable tests. Take off that access
    port and have someone crank the engine while you listen to the top of
    the fuel pump with a stethoscope. You should hear a whirring if the
    pump is working. Usually it is audible without the stethoscope.

    2. Ive replaced the fuel pump in a few cars. They used to have cars
    where the pump wasn't even in the tank. Imagine that? BUT, for cars
    like yours with an access pump it shouldn't take long to replace. I
    recently replaced the fuel pump in a Honda. It took about 40
    minutes. If you are savvy at all, you can do it yourself. It is not
    a mystery or a dead language, it can be done.

    3. The price of the fuel pump will depend upon the brand and the
    supplier. Usually OEM parts tend to be more expensive, but using the
    proper replacement part will come with certain guarantees. You know
    that the OEM part was made specifically to fit in this car. No part
    of it will have to be bent, clipped off or otherwise reshaped to fit
    into place.

    jack42038, Jan 15, 2009
  4. ciggy

    Tegger Guest

    That depends.

    If there is no ignition event, the ECU/ECM/PCM will refuse to fire the
    injectors, so no gas and no start and no flood.

    Plus you can fix it.

    Simply hold the pedal right to the floor and crank. Provided you've not
    got thick floor mats bulking things up and holding the pedal off the
    floor, the ECU/ECM/PCM will interpret the resulting WOT combined with
    starter operation as a signal to shut off the injectors so as to clear a
    flooded condition.

    It's a lot easier to simply pull the gas filler cap and listen with your
    ears. The pump will run for two seconds when the key is first turned to
    "II". You will hear a whine/buzz.

    If you wear a hearing aid, as I do, it's even easier. Just switch the
    aid to the "T" setting and listen as you turn the key to "II".


    OEM is far better /build quality/, never mind physical fit. Materials
    are higher quality, bearings are bigger, seals are better, fit is
    better, all sorts of things.

    If I had the time and inclination, I'd regale you for hours with horror
    stories of all the shit aftermarket junk I've seen and heard of over the

    Do yourself a favor and buy OEM. For the average driver who just needs
    his car to get from work to home without fail, OEM is well worth the
    extra cost.
    Tegger, Jan 17, 2009
  5. ciggy

    Dillon Pyron Guest

    Question. Does the inertial kill switch kill the whole thing, or just
    the pump? Or do Hondas even have one? (I know my CRX did).
    On both my CRX and 96 Civic (and my wife's 96 Accord) you could hear
    the pump spin up. Of course, these were manuals, so I waited a second
    or so before pushing the clutch in.
    I'll bet you're fun to be around when the battery starts to go. At
    least my m-i-l is. :)

    - dillon I am not invalid

    When you wish upon a falling star, your dreams come true.
    Unless it's really a meteorite hurtling to the Earth which
    will destroy all life. Then you're pretty much hosed no
    matter what you wish for. Unless it's death by meteor.
    Dillon Pyron, Jan 17, 2009
  6. ciggy

    jack42038 Guest

    I didnt get into the whole OEM vs Aftermarket debate but it should be
    understood, and I stand by my point, the OEM part was made
    specifically for the vehicle. It was what they had in mind when they
    were testing the car and it is was they intended to be on the vehicle
    on the road. There may be parts out there that are considered
    upgrades or mods or what have you, and they may well be of better
    quality (if so they are probably more expensive), BUT you had better
    be aware of any other changes they may bring to the table. I am
    always suspect of any part that claims to be universal. Car shapes,
    sizes, engines, electrical systems and designs are surely not
    universal, how could the parts be? Perhaps light bulbs are universal
    in some cars, but then even that is sometimes not true.

    So far, it has been my experience when dealing with engines,
    especially temperamental ones, that you should use the parts intended
    for the vehicle. I've tried to get by on parts that were "close" only
    to replace them and reinvest time and more money into a situation that
    would have been cheaper just to put the OEM part in to begin with. I
    don't have any scary stories along those lines, just stories that
    involve money being dumped down the drain. Ask Tegger for the scary

    Just because something comes from NAPA doesn't necessarily mean it is
    the Original Equipment for your vehicle. Ask them. Places like
    AutoZone and Advance will usually give you the option of OEM and

    Listening at the fuel door is just as well. I thought you were
    already down as far as the access hatch to your fuel pump was the
    reason I suggested what I did.

    If they are now suggesting that something is wrong in your ignition
    system and are requesting that you replace it all, you may want to
    check it further yourself, OR take it and get a second opinion. If
    the consensus is to replace the ignition system then let it be so.

    Good luck.

    jack42038, Jan 18, 2009
  7. That's been my experience, too. I am stubborn so I had to do a lot more
    rework than I might have but the message got through. Aftermarket is okay
    for consumables - batteries, tires, wiper blades - but should be carefully
    considered otherwise. Spark plugs and belts often come in quality
    aftermarket varieties, and I'm sure there are quality aftermarket brake
    components out there. As you say, expect to pay more than OEM. But buying
    aftermarket water pumps, starters and alternators gets old real quickly.
    "Lifetime warranty" doesn't put a smile on my face when I am changing some
    inaccessible component for the fourth time.

    Most recent scary story: my son put NAPA ignition parts in his Acura. A few
    months later the rotor broke - the plastic broke away from the metal collar
    that held it. He had to have it towed (it was on the freeway at night) and
    then we had to address the problem of the dust shield the broken rotor tore
    up. The OEM version was much more solid.

    Michael Pardee, Jan 18, 2009
  8. ciggy

    Tegger Guest


    NAPA/AZ/Advance/whoever _cannot_ give you OEM. They can only give you "OEM-
    spec", or "OEM quality". Both are most definitely aftermarket and of
    aftermarket quality.

    OEM _only_ comes from a Honda dealer.
    Tegger, Jan 18, 2009
  9. ciggy

    Tegger Guest

    I don't know.

    What's a pain these days is how the batteries now last a couple of
    weeks, so you forget when you put the last one in, and I keep forgetting
    to carry a spare with me.

    Modern digital aids stay at full volume for a while even with a failing
    battery, but they give you a series of tones (that only you hear) when
    the voltage begins falling. This gives you an hour or so to round a up a
    replacement before it fails outright. The old analog aids would simply
    go dead on you with little warning.
    Tegger, Jan 18, 2009
  10. ciggy

    jim beam Guest

    not necessary - the ecu switches the pump off after two seconds of
    ignition on but no engine run. if the crash is severe enough to kill the
    electrics, the problem is still solved.
    jim beam, Jan 18, 2009
  11. ciggy

    jim beam Guest

    the real question is why is he replacing the pump in the first place? do
    we have diagnostics supporting that? sounds like a typical rip-em-off
    mechanic guess to me.
    jim beam, Jan 18, 2009
  12. ciggy

    jack42038 Guest

    OKAY, so what I am seeing here is that when the stores tell me that it
    is an OEM part they are really saying it is supposedly up to "OEM"
    specs but not really an OEM part? Well that sucks. I had no idea
    about that.

    On a high note I cleaned the EGR valve this weekend on my 97 Jaguar
    VDP (AJ16 X300 series) and gained about 8mpg. Wooo HOOO!!! That was
    an easy fix and I can't begin to tell you how delighted I am. Just
    thought I'd share. The good thing about that car is that nothing but
    OEM exists for it. You really have to modify anything else to make it
    fit, so OEM is always the best way to go and it pays to know where to
    get the best prices for actual OEM ie. Lucas or what have you parts.

    Thanks again Tegger for keeping us ontrack. My son's little Honda is
    doing great for a 3 cylinder. At this point it gets him where it
    needs to and in the event it dies I have free towing and can be
    wherever he is in less than an hour. I am still looking for a
    replacement BT to drop into his chassis that is in good working
    order. Would the Lx (Carbureted engine do okay in that car?)

    I also echo Jim's question. Did we ever figure out for sure if this
    guy's problem was his fuel pump? I wondered if it could be as simple
    as the EFI main relay, but does this car have that little doo-dad?

    Jack the Barbarian.
    jack42038, Jan 19, 2009
  13. ciggy

    Dillon Pyron Guest

    That's my mother-in-law's problem. She has one of the ungodly
    expensive Siemens over the ear. She used to have two cheaper ones,
    but she complained about noise.
    Thank goodness for 24 hour Walgreens.

    - dillon I am not invalid

    Men are like a carpet. Lay them well and you can
    walk on them for years.
    Dillon Pyron, Jan 20, 2009
  14. ciggy

    Dillon Pyron Guest

    My wife had a 84 Escort GT. She was rear ended one day, just a hard
    bump. She had the clutch in, but the car just died. And wouldn't
    crank. Tow truck driver went into the trunk, pulled and access panel
    and showed where where the reset switch was. Then charged us $45. But
    we got it back when the hit & run driver was arrested. If you're
    going to drive off, don't do it at the first on-ramp to have a camera

    - dillon I am not invalid

    Men are like a carpet. Lay them well and you can
    walk on them for years.
    Dillon Pyron, Jan 20, 2009
  15. Ford was doing that even into the '90s, I think. I ran across it on an
    in-law's Escort. For all I know they are doing it still.

    Most cars use the "ignition firing" criterion. I had an '84 Nissan that had
    some sort of ECU problem in which the fuel pump control part didn't know the
    ignition was still going. It would die like clockwork while I was driving,
    requiring me to push in the clutch and use the starter to reset it. I
    eventually had to bypass the safety cutout.

    Michael Pardee, Jan 20, 2009
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