Bleeding an ABS Brake System?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by G-Man, Jun 7, 2004.

  1. G-Man

    G-Man Guest

    Is this any different than a regular system? I need to do a fluid change.
    I have a Mity-Vac to assist with this. Or is it better left up to someone
    with special equip?

    G-Man
     
    G-Man, Jun 7, 2004
    #1
  2. G-Man

    rastapasta Guest

    Yeah, I hear you need a special ABS wrench for Hondas/Acuras. I've had to
    replace my ABS cylinder twice. Well, the 1st one I got via HAP Recycling
    (~$150), was installed by a local garage, but that one failed too, since it
    was used, but HAP sent out an other one for free, & had that one put on. No
    problems since then, though, knock on wood! I saved a bundle getting a used
    one & actually FINDING a guy that would install it, also. I called,
    literally, every garage in town (& I'm in Dallas area), & they all refused
    to do ABS work & referred me to the stealership, which a new ABS cylinder is
    ~$1000, not including labor. I called ONE LAST # I saw, & the good 'ol boy
    said--"Bring it on!!! We'll do it!!!". They did the job for ~$200, the first
    time, then ~$150 the 2nd time. That garage rules. They had a couple big ass
    beefed-up Nova's & Chargers sittin' out front, too. Worked for me.
     
    rastapasta, Jun 7, 2004
    #2
  3. G-Man

    Red98 Guest

    No. You don't need to take to someone. And you don't even need to take the
    wheels off. You need, I think, a 10mm box end wrench to open the bleed
    screws, a length of rubber or plastic tube that fits tightly on bleed
    screws, a quart of fluid and something to catch the expelled fluid in. The
    mity-vac should have instructions on how to bleed and connect the little
    storage reservoir that accumulates the bled fluid from the system. It has to
    be emptied frequently because it's not very large. Start out by sucking
    almost, but not all of the fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir, then
    filling to top with new fluid This saves the time and work of sucking this
    dirty fluid all the way through the system. Next, attach the rubber tube to
    the wheel cylinder nearest the master cylinder. In US it's the left front.
    Crack the bleed screw open slightly and suck with the mity vac vacuum. Close
    the bleed screw each time you stop sucking. Check the level in the master
    cylinder frequently to avoid sucking in air, refilling as necessary. Keep
    removing fluid from each wheel cylinder until it is coming out clean
    (practically colorless) There will be some bubbles in the stream of fluid
    coming out, but this is usual. When it does come out clean, close the bleed
    screw tightly and move onto the next wheel cylinder which would be the right
    front, then the left rear and finally the right rear.
     
    Red98, Jun 7, 2004
    #3
  4. G-Man

    motsco_ _ Guest


    +++++++++++

    red98 was close, but forgot a couple of things. Before starting, with
    engine OFF, step on the brake pedal a few times until you hear / feel
    all the vacuum bleed off. Forget the Mity-Vac. It sucks air past the
    threads and its very confusing to tell if the air is from inside or
    outside the system. Get a helper and put a 2x4 under the pedal to
    prevent helper pushing the pedal past the usual range of travel.

    Start at closest to reservoir, as directed. Use clear plastic tygon
    tubing, and open nipple, say 'down' and helper pushes slowly. Helper
    says OK and you close the nipple. You say 'up slowly' and when they get
    to the top the helper says 'ready'. You open the nipple and watch the
    color of the fluid, and for air. ETC, ETC, Repeat for front right.

    Check level in reservoir often, don't SHAKE the bottle of brake fluid,
    and don't put any lubricant dino-based on the rubber parts, or on the
    bleed nipples of a braking system.
     
    motsco_ _, Jun 7, 2004
    #4
  5. G-Man

    E. Meyer Guest

    What's the name of this place? There are lots of us driving around Dallas
    with bad Honda ABS systems.

    By the way - To just bleed the brakes on a Honda with ABS, you do not need
    any special tool beyond what you need to bleed regular brakes.
     
    E. Meyer, Jun 8, 2004
    #5
  6. G-Man

    rastapasta Guest



    Allen Foreign & Domestic Auto
    112 W. Main Street
    Allen, TX 75013
    (972) 727-1494

    Map:
    http://mapsonus.switchboard.com/bin/maps-maponly/usr=~40c535d4.4d4a6.58f3.7/c=1/refsrc=SB.newsb/isredir=1/

    There's a big ol' boy there named Marlin (Manager). They're all pretty
    cool. Tell 'em John sent ya, with the Black '92 Integra, with the 2 ABS
    repairs last year sometime. ;}

    Oh, here's some coupon I found, too.
    http://www.allenonline.com/Coupons1/AllenCarCare1.html

    BBB report
    http://www.dallas.bbb.org/commonreport.html?bureau=dallas&compid=26001858&code=

    Got my ABS cylinder from Honda Acura Recycling (CA)
    (HAP parts)
    Someone recommended to me once to just simply unhook the ABS wires, & the
    ABS light while I'm at it. I just said "Nahhhhhhh---I'll get it done right".
     
    rastapasta, Jun 8, 2004
    #6
  7. G-Man

    DCB Guest

    [snizzle]
    Oops.... I think the name of it is actually something like "HAR"---Honda
    Acura Recycling, or something.
     
    DCB, Jun 12, 2004
    #7
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