Dick said:
They didn't just copy the remote unlock system to the new key. They changed the remote program for both keys.
We're talking two different things here:
1) the ignition security code (lets you start the car)
2) the remote lock/unlock system
They *must* copy the ignition security code from your old key to the new key. If you lose both your keys, then they must perform the costly operation (much more than $100) of putting an all-new ignition security code into the computer AND adding that to your keys.
The remote lock/unlock system, however, is far simpler. Each key has a unique transmitter identity; it's a simple 10 second procedure (per key) to match up the key to the lock/unlock receiver system inside the car.
You can do that.
If you needed a new key, it by definition must match up with the ignition security system. But because your key also contains the remote lock/unlock transmitter, that part of replacing your key also needed to be done.
One key, but that key serves two purposes, therefore it needed two things done to fully match it with the car.
The service advisor told me
they had to reprogram all the keys and the car.
Not for $100 they didn't. If you went in with one key and came out with two, and both keys started the car and locked/unlocked the doors, and all you paid was $100, they did not "reprogram all the keys and the car".
The fact that your lost key continued to start the car is the final proof. They never touched the ignition security code itself, other than copying it from your existing key into the new key. That's standard procedure. Also standard procedure is the 10 second mating of the new remote transmitter to the car.
This is evidenced by
the fact that the old (previously lost) key will no longer unlock remotely.
Not at all. I have four remotes programmed to my van, and sometimes one of those will lose its "mind"--that is, the receiver in the car loses its knowledge of the remote in question. I have to perform the 10 second procedure for that remote again. The procedure doesn't touch the other keys.
It's not impossible that they cleared the remote lock/unlock system and started it from scratch, but that would have been another 10 second procedure by itself. The remote lock/unlock system and programming a new key transmitter for it is something you could have Googled the instructions for and done yourself. Probably would have saved you $50.
The fact that your lost key still starts the car is proof that they didn't "reprogram all the keys and the car" with regard to the ignition security system. That's very costly to do.
Something I haven't figured out yet is why, if they only copied the ignition security and remote codes to the new key, did I get charged for programming 3 keys, which included the valet key without any remote buttons?
That's an excellent question to ask your service manager.
Please note: they did not COPY the remote lock/unlock code to the new key. The copying of codes relates ONLY to the ignition security system. The lock/unlock system is separate and operates differently. The system in the car can recognize up to four transmitters, and there's a specific 10 second sequence to go through that requires that the new key be physically present at the car. This process does not alter the code in the transmitter itself; the transmitter already has a unique code in it from the factory. This procedure merely establishes a link between that transmitter and the car's lock/unlock computer. The link is verified by the fact that the key is physically at the car and that the key can physically operate the door lock. Once that dance is completed, the car's computer is convinced that this particular key is supposed to operate this particular car, and the computer remembers that for remote operations.
It's only a 10 second dance.
Like I said, the $100 paid for $50 of key plus ignition security code transfer, and $50 worth of matching the new transmitter in the new key to the car's remote lock/unlock system.
The reason you're here asking all of this is because you don't know how the systems work, and you're looking for people who do know. You've found one--but you're resisting believing that person.
You could believe a guy who spent a half hour of his life going over all of this FOR FREE with a COMPLETE STRANGER, or you can believe the dealership service department who just printed out a load of crap for you to get your hundred bucks.
The key points (pun intended) to consider are these:
1) you were charged only $100, which does not in any way, shape, or form pay for anything regarding the ignition security code inside the car itself
2) your lost key still starts the car
It can't be any plainer to someone like me who knows how this works. You may choose not to believe me; that's your business.
It may be time to go back and have a talk with my
Honda dealer.
I'd say so.