Accord - Changing Brake Rotors - Tools/Procedure?

Discussion in 'Accord' started by kiselink, Jul 5, 2004.

  1. kiselink

    kiselink Guest

    I want to change the brake rotors on my 97 Accord EX 4 Cylinder. Can
    I do this with non-air tools and what tools do I need to get the hub
    nut off! What is the procedure!

    Someone I know tried to do this with a 3/8 inch breaker bar - the bar
    broke. He jacked the car up before applying leverage on the hub nut
    and had someone hold the wheel in place by hold the brakes. Seemed
    like this was not the way to go.

    Do you need to use 3/4 inch socket? How do you get the nut
    loose.....put the transmission in park, leave wheels on ground, have
    long wrench and apply force down toward the ground?
     
    kiselink, Jul 5, 2004
    #1
  2. kiselink

    disallow Guest

    ummmmm, unless I am off my rocker, you don't need to remove
    the hub nut, just the retaining screws on the rotor. The
    easiest way to remove these is with an impact screwdriver,
    the kind you hit with a hammer, and it turns and exerts
    downward pressure at the same time.

    Should take about 10 minutes, if its anything like my 98
    civic.
    t
     
    disallow, Jul 6, 2004
    #2
  3. kiselink

    Lex Guest

    these accords (I think its 90-97 models) are a pain in the ass when it comes
    to rotor resurfacing or replacement. we use an on-car brake lath to
    resurface them at the dealership I work at. I haven't replaced any but, I
    know they're pressed onto the hub, or hub bearing, one of the two. theyres 4
    bolts that need to be taken of, then the axle bolt needs come off. i highly
    recommend impact tools. at least a half inch drive.
     
    Lex, Jul 7, 2004
    #3
  4. kiselink

    chuck smoko Guest

    Check out the following document for reference.

    http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconnect/technicalservices/downloads/3501.pdf

    It took a lot of hammering with a 2 lb. sledge to remove the rotors
    but they finally came off. IMHO, a bad design to require the hub
    and bearing to come off just to remove the rotor.

    My breaker bar w/ a 1/2" drive and 3 foot pipe removed the nut after
    hitting the lock tab thingy with a punch as to unlock the little divit
    from
    the axle. It was still tight.

    chuck smoko
     
    chuck smoko, Jul 9, 2004
    #4
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