AC not as cold as it used to be

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by thebigguy, May 30, 2011.

  1. thebigguy

    thebigguy Guest

    1997 CRV 135500mi
    Went on a trip yesterday...four pass and quite hot and humid out. The
    AC in the car was cool, but not cold. Sometimes it would get colder
    than others. On the way home that night the AC was plenty cold.
    Never had this thing charged or anything...any ideas?
     
    thebigguy, May 30, 2011
    #1
  2. thebigguy

    Dillon Pyron Guest

    What was the outside temperature? A/C is only good for dropping the
    temperature x degrees, not putt it down to a certain level. When it
    hits 100 plus around here (last Thursday) my Fit had a lot of trouble
    getting cool for quite a while.

    Are you using recirc? That helps after a bit (but surely not at
    first) since you are cooling air that is already cooler. But your
    heat exchanger can only dump so much heat. That's why cars tended to
    overheat back in "the good old days".

    Driving during the day, hot air. Driving home at night, cooler and
    less humid air.
    --

    - dillon I am not invalid

    "You idiots, it's rape, pillage,THEN BURN!!!"
    --- chief of the Aggie Vikings
     
    Dillon Pyron, May 31, 2011
    #2

  3. Bigguy...

    Dillon's likely spot on with his answer to your "problem."

    If, however, you begin to see this occurring when it is NOT quite so hot
    and muggy, it may be that your refrigerant charge is down a bit.
    Actually, it's probably likely that your refrigerant charge on a 14 year
    old car that's never had the AC service is marginal.

    Easy to cure provided you read and follow directions. The little
    recharge kits they sell at the auto supply stores work great PROVIDED
    THAT YOU DO NOT OVERCHARGE the system. As stated - read and follow
    directions, and in most cases you'll be back in Iceland quickly and
    cheaply (>$25).

    P.S. if you happen to overcharge the system, you'll know it as the high
    pressure cutoff will kick in and the compressor will shut down. In
    which case, simply bleed off (at the same port you're adding the
    refrigerant) some of the charge and start over again FOLLOWING THE
    DIRECTIONS THIS TIME<g>
     
    Unquestionably Confused, May 31, 2011
    #3
  4. thebigguy

    Boomer Guest

    "thebigguy" wrote in message

    1997 CRV 135500mi
    Went on a trip yesterday...four pass and quite hot and humid out. The
    AC in the car was cool, but not cold. Sometimes it would get colder
    than others. On the way home that night the AC was plenty cold.
    Never had this thing charged or anything...any ideas?


    This is likely not your problem, however. My air conditioner in my 98 CRV
    just was not handling the hot weather like it once did. I complained to my
    mechanic. He checked the coolant charge and said it was fine. He then asked
    when was the last time my filter for the cooling and heating system was
    changed. I told him never. He pulled it out and it was almost completely
    blocked. This needs to be pretty clean for the Honda air to work very well.
    Honda air conditioners have always been marginal. Everything needs to be in
    very good working order for things to get cool.

    Michael
     
    Boomer, May 31, 2011
    #4
  5. thebigguy

    thebigguy Guest

    OK...my mechanic said probably orifice valve (TXV). He changed it and
    recharged the system and everything seems to be back to normal. $125
    parts and labor. Dealership wanted $500. Also at lights, while
    stopped I have the seemingly common problem of the AC "warming" a tad
    and then when moving again it gets colder. What should the temp be
    coming out of the vent?
     
    thebigguy, Jun 1, 2011
    #5
  6. thebigguy

    Dillon Pyron Guest

    Here's a great debugging tool. Get two instant read meat
    thermometers. Put one on the front seat in the shade but in the open
    air. Put the other in one of the output ducts. After about 5 minutes
    the output should be about 8 to 12 degrees lower than the ambient. If
    it's not, and if it doesn't keep this differential, you have a
    mechanical problem. Last night it was 92 F at 8 pm. You can not and
    will not get a car down to 70 F. But a good A/C (like Carol's Camrty
    XLE) will get you around 80. Now, it was 100 plus when she got in the
    car after forgetting to pop the sunroof and put up the sunshield and
    it hadn't cooled enough to be "surviable" by the time she got home.

    NB modern A/C units can do as much as 20 degrees differential. But
    it depends on the outside temperature.

    But not so "Unquestioable Confused" has also hit something real
    important. And it could be multiple problems. His and mine working
    against your best interests.
    --

    - dillon I am not invalid

    "You idiots, it's rape, pillage,THEN BURN!!!"
    --- chief of the Aggie Vikings
     
    Dillon Pyron, Jun 1, 2011
    #6
  7. thebigguy

    Dillon Pyron Guest

    Yeah, I always have discomfort when my orifice is blocked.
    See my other post. At least 8 F below the ambient inside the car
    after about 5 minutes.

    This is also the same methodology used to check your A/C at home.

    --

    - dillon I am not invalid

    "You idiots, it's rape, pillage,THEN BURN!!!"
    --- chief of the Aggie Vikings
     
    Dillon Pyron, Jun 1, 2011
    #7
  8. Which is fine when the goal is air conditioning--because humidity
    removal is the key. 80 degrees and dry is just fine for humans.

    Not to be confused with refrigeration, which is way different. Humans
    want conditioned air. Meat wants refrigeration.

    Someone should have mentioned that to the Toyota engineers that made the
    AC in my 94 Previa...not that I complained too much, after too many
    years driving Hondas made in the 1980s....
     
    Elmo P. Shagnasty, Jun 2, 2011
    #8

  9. Great description of the reality of air conditioning, Elmo.
     
    Unquestionably Confused, Jun 2, 2011
    #9
  10. thebigguy

    jim beam Guest

    although some may not feel like it, car a/c is in fact a refrigeration
    device, not a dehumidifier - the condenser is /outside/ the passenger
    cabin [and in a cooler location at the front of the car] to dump heat.
    if the objective was simply dehumidification, it would be inside the
    cabin and save complexity and money.
     
    jim beam, Jun 2, 2011
    #10
  11. thebigguy

    jim beam Guest

    excellent point.

    indeed. filters are a good thing though - they prevent the heat
    exchanger getting clogged with dust, losing efficiency themselves and
    breeding stink.
     
    jim beam, Jun 2, 2011
    #11
  12. although some may not feel like it, car a/c is in fact a refrigeration
    device, not a dehumidifier - the condenser is /outside/ the passenger
    cabin [and in a cooler location at the front of the car] to dump heat.
    if the objective was simply dehumidification, it would be inside the
    cabin and save complexity and money.[/QUOTE]

    'Tis true. It's a mix, a compromise--remove enough heat to the outside,
    and you'll by definition remove enough humidity to be comfortable for
    humans, which means you can stop removing heat sooner and therefore make
    the system cheaper/smaller.

    Unless you're Toyota designing the 94 Previa, in which case you presume
    it's a vehicle being used by meatpacking houses for deliveries.
     
    Elmo P. Shagnasty, Jun 3, 2011
    #12
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