97 EX civic stock radio dead

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  • Start date Start date
M

Max

After being re-installed, my stock honda radio is dead. No signs of life.
Any ideas?

Here's the actual story:

I had an aftermarket radio put in long time ago, but since the keyless entry
is built into the stock radio, the installer put in a special harness that
allowed the original stereo to stay connected and powered behind the dash.
Everything worked fine untill a few days ago someone broke into my car and
stole the aftermarket radio (sucks, but that's life)

They took the radio and cut the wires where they connected to the splitter
harness (why not just unplug them is beyond me, but...). The harness was
left intact and they left the stock stereo. However after that the remote
stopped working. So I figure untill I get a replacement deck, I would use
the stock radio. However after I got it out from behind the dash and
installed it proper, it is dead -no lights, no nothing.

I checked the fuses, they seem to be fine. Checked voltage on the harness,
there is 4.3v on the backup lead all the time and about 12v on ACC when the
car is on . Sounds like power is ok.

I thought maybe they shorted something out when they cut the cables, but I
looked at the radio and there seems to be no visible signs of damage.

I figured maybe it's the security code issue, but from a quick search it
seems that when it wants the code, it powers on and asks for it - so it is
probably not that.

I am at a loss. Any ideas?

I am thinking of giving up and getting a new deck and an alarm system that
has it's own keyless entry in it, but I would prefer to keep the costs down,
money is definately an object.

Also, there are 3 harnesses in the back, one is radio (speakers+power) one
is "security" (I assume this is keyless entry and stuff. What is the third
one? Also, is there a site that lists pinouts for those harnesses?

Thanks a bunch,

-M
 
Max said:
After being re-installed, my stock honda radio is dead. No signs of life.
Any ideas?

Here's the actual story:

I had an aftermarket radio put in long time ago, but since the keyless entry
is built into the stock radio, the installer put in a special harness that
allowed the original stereo to stay connected and powered behind the dash.
Everything worked fine untill a few days ago someone broke into my car and
stole the aftermarket radio (sucks, but that's life)

They took the radio and cut the wires where they connected to the splitter
harness (why not just unplug them is beyond me, but...). The harness was
left intact and they left the stock stereo. However after that the remote
stopped working. So I figure untill I get a replacement deck, I would use
the stock radio. However after I got it out from behind the dash and
installed it proper, it is dead -no lights, no nothing.

I checked the fuses, they seem to be fine. Checked voltage on the harness,
there is 4.3v on the backup lead all the time and about 12v on ACC when the
car is on . Sounds like power is ok.

I thought maybe they shorted something out when they cut the cables, but I
looked at the radio and there seems to be no visible signs of damage.

I figured maybe it's the security code issue, but from a quick search it
seems that when it wants the code, it powers on and asks for it - so it is
probably not that.

I am at a loss. Any ideas?

I am thinking of giving up and getting a new deck and an alarm system that
has it's own keyless entry in it, but I would prefer to keep the costs down,
money is definately an object.

Also, there are 3 harnesses in the back, one is radio (speakers+power) one
is "security" (I assume this is keyless entry and stuff. What is the third
one? Also, is there a site that lists pinouts for those harnesses?

Thanks a bunch,

-M

The constant 12V shouldn't be 4.3V. Check that fuse of see if a wire is
broken.

I hope the cops find the prick that took your stereo.
 
Max said:
After being re-installed, my stock honda radio is dead. No signs of life.
Any ideas?

Here's the actual story:

I had an aftermarket radio put in long time ago, but since the keyless entry
is built into the stock radio, the installer put in a special harness that
allowed the original stereo to stay connected and powered behind the dash.
Everything worked fine untill a few days ago someone broke into my car and
stole the aftermarket radio (sucks, but that's life)

They took the radio and cut the wires where they connected to the splitter
harness (why not just unplug them is beyond me, but...). The harness was
left intact and they left the stock stereo. However after that the remote
stopped working. So I figure untill I get a replacement deck, I would use
the stock radio. However after I got it out from behind the dash and
installed it proper, it is dead -no lights, no nothing.

I checked the fuses, they seem to be fine. Checked voltage on the harness,
there is 4.3v on the backup lead all the time and about 12v on ACC when the
car is on . Sounds like power is ok.

I thought maybe they shorted something out when they cut the cables, but I
looked at the radio and there seems to be no visible signs of damage.

I figured maybe it's the security code issue, but from a quick search it
seems that when it wants the code, it powers on and asks for it - so it is
probably not that.

I am at a loss. Any ideas?

I am thinking of giving up and getting a new deck and an alarm system that
has it's own keyless entry in it, but I would prefer to keep the costs down,
money is definately an object.

Also, there are 3 harnesses in the back, one is radio (speakers+power) one
is "security" (I assume this is keyless entry and stuff. What is the third
one? Also, is there a site that lists pinouts for those harnesses?

Thanks a bunch,

-M

The constant 12V shouldn't be 4.3V. Check that fuse of see if a wire is
broken.

I hope the cops find the prick that took your stereo.
 
As the other poster said, check the fuse for the constant +12V. I
believe this fuse is located in the under-hood fuse box rather than in
the under-dash fuse box.

One of the green connectors is for the dome-light function (which the
alarm system needs to see), the other is for actuation of the power door
locks.

If you want keyless remote without the factory stereo you can put in
Part Number 330-145 from http://www.partsexpress.com. It is only $40 and
works great (I have put those in two different cars). It is a keyless
remote unit only with no meaningful alarm function.
 
As the other poster said, check the fuse for the constant +12V. I
believe this fuse is located in the under-hood fuse box rather than in
the under-dash fuse box.

One of the green connectors is for the dome-light function (which the
alarm system needs to see), the other is for actuation of the power door
locks.

If you want keyless remote without the factory stereo you can put in
Part Number 330-145 from http://www.partsexpress.com. It is only $40 and
works great (I have put those in two different cars). It is a keyless
remote unit only with no meaningful alarm function.
 
Kevin McMurtrie said:
The constant 12V shouldn't be 4.3V. Check that fuse of see if a wire is
broken.

Man, you rock. Thanks!!! I've been working w/ digital logic too long and
figured constant should be 5v but knowing that it should be 12v I figured it
out. I totally spaced that there is a second set of fuses under the hood and
that is where radio backup fuse is (which of course was blown!)
I hope the cops find the prick that took your stereo.

Me too, but I am not holding my breath. I have to say though, it was a very
impressively clean job. They did not break the window or the dash, there are
actually no visible damage other than missing stereo/cds and the fact that
contents of the glove box were thrown all over the car. They even locked the
door on the way out.

Thanks again.

-M
 
Kevin McMurtrie said:
The constant 12V shouldn't be 4.3V. Check that fuse of see if a wire is
broken.

Man, you rock. Thanks!!! I've been working w/ digital logic too long and
figured constant should be 5v but knowing that it should be 12v I figured it
out. I totally spaced that there is a second set of fuses under the hood and
that is where radio backup fuse is (which of course was blown!)
I hope the cops find the prick that took your stereo.

Me too, but I am not holding my breath. I have to say though, it was a very
impressively clean job. They did not break the window or the dash, there are
actually no visible damage other than missing stereo/cds and the fact that
contents of the glove box were thrown all over the car. They even locked the
door on the way out.

Thanks again.

-M
 
Kevin McMurtrie said:
The third (security) connector isn't even diagrammed in Honda's repair
manual.

is there anything usefull on that 3rd connector? what is it for?

Thanks,

-M
 
Kevin McMurtrie said:
The third (security) connector isn't even diagrammed in Honda's repair
manual.

is there anything usefull on that 3rd connector? what is it for?

Thanks,

-M
 
Max said:
is there anything usefull on that 3rd connector? what is it for?

Thanks,

-M

It's secret. I'm tempted to rip it out of a junkyard car and see where
all those wires go.
 
Max said:
is there anything usefull on that 3rd connector? what is it for?

Thanks,

-M

It's secret. I'm tempted to rip it out of a junkyard car and see where
all those wires go.
 
I had a brand new stereo stolen out of my Civic. When I installed the
new stereo, it wouldn't work either. Found out after that who ever broke
into my car must not have had wire cutters and pulled on the stereo
until the wires broke. I had to run new power and ground wires.
If you are only getting 4.3Vdc on the back-up lead, sounds like they may
have yanked the wire out of the harness to some degree. You should see
12Vdc on it as well. Try connecting a known 12Vdc source to all leads
that require 12Vdc.

B.
 
I had a brand new stereo stolen out of my Civic. When I installed the
new stereo, it wouldn't work either. Found out after that who ever broke
into my car must not have had wire cutters and pulled on the stereo
until the wires broke. I had to run new power and ground wires.
If you are only getting 4.3Vdc on the back-up lead, sounds like they may
have yanked the wire out of the harness to some degree. You should see
12Vdc on it as well. Try connecting a known 12Vdc source to all leads
that require 12Vdc.

B.
 

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