95 Accord Engine Running Too Cool?

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Ron, Jun 8, 2004.

  1. Ron

    Ron Guest

    I have a 95 Accord with 70,000 miles on it.

    The temp gauge usually runs about a quarter of the way up from cold, now
    for some strange reason the gauge stays right on the blue (cool) part of
    the gauge.

    I just noticed it doing this 2 wks ago, I live in Florida so I always
    keep an eye on the temp gauge in the summer, especially while in stop
    and go traffic.

    Sometimes it will barely move above blue area to the line but thats it.
    If I turn the heater on it drops all the way down below the blue area
    and it blows out *warm* not *hot* air so this rules out a bad sending

    Does anyone know what could be causing the engine to run so cool?

    Also, no work or preventive maintenance has been performed on the engine
    recently that might some how cause this problem.
    Ron, Jun 8, 2004
  2. Ron

    Randolph Guest

    It seems your thermostat is stuck open. Cheap part to buy, but I don't
    know how easy it is to replace on on your car.
    Randolph, Jun 8, 2004
  3. Ron

    motsco_ _ Guest


    The manual says your rad should be full to the top, and the reservoir
    full to the MAX mark. Have you checked your oil lately, while you're
    under the hood?

    Reply to group. 'Curly'

    motsco_ _, Jun 8, 2004
  4. Ron

    Ron Guest

    Thats what I was thinking, but in the 30 yrs that I have been working on
    cars I've never heard of that. I've had plenty get stuck shut, but never
    had one stuck open. You would think that the spring would close it.
    Ron, Jun 8, 2004
  5. Ron

    Ron Guest

    Both are full, that was the first thing that I checked. And yes, my oil
    is fine. : )
    Ron, Jun 9, 2004
  6. Ron

    Randolph Guest

    A few years ago the engine on my brother's VW would never reach normal
    operating temp and there was very little heat from the heater. New
    thermostat fixed the problem. The old one wasn't literally stuck open,
    but it opened way to early.
    Randolph, Jun 9, 2004
  7. Ron

    Tegger® Guest

    (Ron) spake unto the masses in :

    They get "stuck" open all the time. The spring gets weak and opens too

    Make sure your coolant is topped up, both in the reservoir AND in the rad.

    Check your heater output. Is it poor? In Florida at this time of year your
    heater should be able to put out scorching heat.

    How many minutes do you have to drive before the transmisison is willing to
    upshift into overdrive/4th?


    The Unofficial Honda FAQ

    How to find anything on the Internet or in Usenet Groups:
    Tegger®, Jun 9, 2004
  8. Ron

    John Horner Guest

    Thermostats can fail stuck open. The one on my Volvo did so about a year

    John Horner, Jun 10, 2004
  9. Ron

    Ron Guest

    A question: How come the temp NEVER gets up to operating temp, even
    after driving for 30 mins in 95 degree weather? (Stop and go traffic in
    Fla.) The water/coolant should eventually get to operating temp because
    the thermostat (supposedly) is stuck open.
    Did that. That was the first thing that I checked. : )
    As stated in my OP, the heater only gets warm, therefore, ruling out the
    sending unit.
    The engine goes into OD right away, always has, the engine temp doesn't
    matter. Now, I once owned a 83 Celica that won't go into OD until the
    engine got to operating temp, but not my Accord.

    I also own a 88 Toyota Supra that doesn't have to heat up before going
    into OD.
    Ron, Jun 11, 2004
  10. Ron

    Ron Guest

    I finally got around to checking the thermostat today and it is not
    stuck open.When I took it out, it was closed. So I tested it several
    times in a pot of boiling water on the stove and it opens and shuts
    without any problem. Any other thoughts on what could be causing the
    Ron, Jul 1, 2004
  11. Ron

    Randolph Guest

    From Click & Clack in the San Jose Mercury News for Friday 7/2/2004:

    I'm having a problem that just started recently. When I start the car,
    it takes a while for the engine to warm up. If I sit there, eventually
    the temperature gauge will go up to normal. But once I start driving, it
    goes back down to "cold", and cold air comes out of the heater. Turning
    the heat on causes the engine temperature to drop even faster. It is
    freezing in the car! I took out the thermostat and tested it, and it is
    working properly. I changed the heater core, too, and the water pump is
    new. Can you tell me what else I can look for or test?


    TOM: Well, look for that thermostat that you tested and then
    reinstalled. Because that's what's causing your problem.

    RAY: I agree. You can test a thermostat by putting it in a pan of water
    and heating it up. You use a thermometer to see at what temperature the
    thermostat closes and opens up, and then you match that to the
    thermostat's ratings. And I take it yours passed the test.

    TOM: But thermostats are finicky. They can work intermittently. And they
    can be "lazy", and open or close only some of the time. Besides, since
    the average thermostat costs eight bucks, we ALWAYS replace the
    thermostat first if the symptoms point in that direction.

    RAY: Your thermostat is stuck in the open position, and it's never
    letting the engine get up to operating temperature.

    TOM: So your coolant is always circulating through the radiator. And
    when you drive, cold air blows across the radiator and cools it off even

    RAY: Running the heat cools off the engine, too, since the heater core
    is really another small radiator.

    TOM: So, pop a new thermostat in there, Joe, and your problems should be
    solved. And chalk up the cost of the new heater core you installed to an
    expensive lesson in how to work upside down while lying under a
    Randolph, Jul 3, 2004
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