'92 accord brake pad replacement

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Chris Driscoll, Nov 18, 2003.

  1. It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to replace
    brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job a bit easier?

    I still plan on taking it somewhere to get an estimate and probably get the work
    done there as well, but I may ask them if I can watch the mechanic do the job.

    I'm not really sure what tools are required or anything like that.. I'd just
    like to be able to do this on my own in the future and just looking for some
    advice here ;).

    Thanks,
    Chris
     
    Chris Driscoll, Nov 18, 2003
    #1
  2. I can't speak for the 92 accord but if it is anything like my 93 civic it is
    easy. On mine you:

    1. take the front tires off
    2. Remove a bolt that holds the caliper in place
    3. Flip the caliper up and remove the brake pads
    4. Use a c clamp to re-insert the main cylinder
    5. Move the pad shims to the new pads and afix with disk brake quiet
    6. insert new pads
    7. replace caliper and bolt
    8. replace tires.

    for both wheels total time is ~2 hours if you've never done it before

    Marshall
     
    Marshall Smith, Nov 18, 2003
    #2
  3. Chris Driscoll

    Eric Guest

    An online version of the factory service manual is available at
    http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/index.html

    Eric
     
    Eric, Nov 18, 2003
    #3
  4. Chris Driscoll

    Eric Guest

    An online version of the factory service manual is available at
    http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/index.html

    Eric
     
    Eric, Nov 18, 2003
    #4
  5. Chris Driscoll

    NetSock Guest

    Wouldn't it be hard to remove the tires from the wheels? :)

    And either way, methinks it would be better to jack the car up, and secure
    it. :)

    But seriously, set the parking brake as well.
    I would recommend torquing this bolt to spec.
    Um...wheels...don't do anything to the tires... :)
    Sorry...couldn't help myself... :)


    --
    '03 S2000
    '94 Accord

    It's just about going fast...that's all...

    http://home.insight.rr.com/cgreen/
     
    NetSock, Nov 18, 2003
    #5
  6. Chris Driscoll

    Peter O Guest

    Chris,

    I have just done this on my 91 Prelude & these are the key points:
    1) Purchase new pads generics from reputable supplier are usually OK Honda
    priginals not needed.
    2) Purchase spray can of "Brake Clean" several types available & all work
    well.
    3) Be sure you have reliable jacks & axle stands, this is an important
    safety issue & is the single most important aspect of any reapair - under no
    circumstances take any avaoidable risk. I have a couple of low cost trolley
    jacks of Taiwanese origin which I use together to lift front or rear, then
    lower onto axle stands. Never trust any jack & do not put yourself in "at
    risk position" until the vehicle is demonstrably stable on axle stands with
    any wheels on ground properly chocked. Remember we often have to work on
    uneven or sloping ground & the handbrake will be off so ensure the vehicle
    can't move.
    4) Dismantling the caliper assembly from wheel hub is straightforward but
    will require ring/open end spanners of correct size, a low cost set of
    spanners is OK.
    5) Note carefully how the pads are fitted into the calipers as you
    dismantle, there may be special shims, not where & how these are fitted.
    Take a pic if digital camera available otherwise make quick drawing, its
    easy to forget the detail if you get distracted or have to go do something
    else.
    6) Now the key point, you have to force the caliper pistons back into the
    caliper body in order to accomodate the increased thickness of the new pads.
    How this is done varies from vehicle to vehicle but on Hondas the pistons
    are wound in, (clockwise in from memory) but this you can establish for sure
    on the job. Before you do this & best before caliper dismantling, use the
    spray cleaner generously to clean the whole assembly. Repeat until all items
    are clean & don't breath the spay.
    The pistons are not easy to grip & turn, but I found a regular pair of
    "Plumbers multi-grips" laying in my toolbox, adjusted to accept the piston
    diameter, did the job just fine, a few degrees at a time. Be careful not to
    destroy the seal boot around piston base. Prior to this you may need to
    clean grime from piston walls which may not clean up with the spray alone,
    use any convenient product; steel wool, nylon abrasive cloth, fine
    carborundum paper etc.
    I used a 6 inch steel rule to measure my progress & to ensure I did not
    overwind the pistons, fairly simple & staraightforward.
    Note that this may cause fluid loss from brake fluid reservoir, just place
    rags around to mop up.
    6) Before reassembly you will need to decide whether your discs require
    re-machining. It's difficult to advise how you can decide this but if the
    discs are badly grooved or enevenly worn or your brakes exhibited vibration
    prior to repair then machining is desirable. A repair shop will rotate the
    discs on car against a deflection indicating gauge to check for warping &
    judge the surface by eye relying on experience.
    I was able to have a mobile machinist visit the house & machine the discs in
    the back of the van at quite modest cost so if this service is available I
    would nachine the disca anyway just to be sure.
    7) Reassemble, be sure to tighten all studs muts etc to the approv torque
    needed to dismantle.
    8) Optional: bleed the brakes thoroughly until you see clean bubble free
    fluid. Be sure to use new brake fluid to manufacturers spec.
    9) Brakes should self adjust but vigorous use in road test may be needed to
    accomplish this.
    Hope this is hekpful & I have all the important stuff - good luck.

    Pete
     
    Peter O, Nov 19, 2003
    #6
  7. Chris Driscoll

    Peter O Guest

    Chris,

    I have just done this on my 91 Prelude & these are the key points:
    1) Purchase new pads generics from reputable supplier are usually OK Honda
    priginals not needed.
    2) Purchase spray can of "Brake Clean" several types available & all work
    well.
    3) Be sure you have reliable jacks & axle stands, this is an important
    safety issue & is the single most important aspect of any reapair - under no
    circumstances take any avaoidable risk. I have a couple of low cost trolley
    jacks of Taiwanese origin which I use together to lift front or rear, then
    lower onto axle stands. Never trust any jack & do not put yourself in "at
    risk position" until the vehicle is demonstrably stable on axle stands with
    any wheels on ground properly chocked. Remember we often have to work on
    uneven or sloping ground & the handbrake will be off so ensure the vehicle
    can't move.
    4) Dismantling the caliper assembly from wheel hub is straightforward but
    will require ring/open end spanners of correct size, a low cost set of
    spanners is OK.
    5) Note carefully how the pads are fitted into the calipers as you
    dismantle, there may be special shims, not where & how these are fitted.
    Take a pic if digital camera available otherwise make quick drawing, its
    easy to forget the detail if you get distracted or have to go do something
    else.
    6) Now the key point, you have to force the caliper pistons back into the
    caliper body in order to accomodate the increased thickness of the new pads.
    How this is done varies from vehicle to vehicle but on Hondas the pistons
    are wound in, (clockwise in from memory) but this you can establish for sure
    on the job. Before you do this & best before caliper dismantling, use the
    spray cleaner generously to clean the whole assembly. Repeat until all items
    are clean & don't breath the spay.
    The pistons are not easy to grip & turn, but I found a regular pair of
    "Plumbers multi-grips" laying in my toolbox, adjusted to accept the piston
    diameter, did the job just fine, a few degrees at a time. Be careful not to
    destroy the seal boot around piston base. Prior to this you may need to
    clean grime from piston walls which may not clean up with the spray alone,
    use any convenient product; steel wool, nylon abrasive cloth, fine
    carborundum paper etc.
    I used a 6 inch steel rule to measure my progress & to ensure I did not
    overwind the pistons, fairly simple & staraightforward.
    Note that this may cause fluid loss from brake fluid reservoir, just place
    rags around to mop up.
    6) Before reassembly you will need to decide whether your discs require
    re-machining. It's difficult to advise how you can decide this but if the
    discs are badly grooved or enevenly worn or your brakes exhibited vibration
    prior to repair then machining is desirable. A repair shop will rotate the
    discs on car against a deflection indicating gauge to check for warping &
    judge the surface by eye relying on experience.
    I was able to have a mobile machinist visit the house & machine the discs in
    the back of the van at quite modest cost so if this service is available I
    would nachine the disca anyway just to be sure.
    7) Reassemble, be sure to tighten all studs muts etc to the approv torque
    needed to dismantle.
    8) Optional: bleed the brakes thoroughly until you see clean bubble free
    fluid. Be sure to use new brake fluid to manufacturers spec.
    9) Brakes should self adjust but vigorous use in road test may be needed to
    accomplish this.
    Hope this is hekpful & I have all the important stuff - good luck.

    Pete
     
    Peter O, Nov 19, 2003
    #7
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