91 Honda Civic tachometer problem(?)

Discussion in 'Civic' started by fart, Nov 17, 2005.

  1. fart

    fart Guest

    Hi,

    I have a 91 Civic with about 230k miles on it. Recently my tachometer
    has been bouncing around a bit. Not dramatically, but enough for me to
    know its abnormal (If I'm at 2000, occasionally it might drop down to
    1800 and then jump right back). The car still seems to run fine and
    there is no discernable change (in engine tone or anything like that)
    when it happens.

    Is this related to the distributor? I had changed it maybe 2 or 3
    years ago. At that time it would make this faint (but audible)
    clicking sound - especially if I would accelerate going up a hill. I
    was told the bearings were bad at that time. Are these 2 problems
    related and on another note, is it time to change my distributor yet
    again? I had read somewhere about an ignitor problem? Are these the
    same symptoms?

    Thanks for any insight you can provide.
     
    fart, Nov 17, 2005
    #1
  2. fart

    Elle Guest

    The distributor is the Achille's heel of early 90s Hondas.
    Two sites that I respect both say that an erratic RPM can
    indicate a failing igniter. See

    http://www.marklamond.co.uk/howto/electrical/igniter/igniter
    ..htm

    http://techauto.te.funpic.org/index.php?content=Ignition

    For tests you can do to check the igniter, see the second
    site above and also
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badigniter
    ..

    I would do these tests first. I doubt the bearings on the
    distributor housing are bad after only a few years.

    Any idea how old the igniter is? The coil?

    Is the distributor housing on your car OEM?

    Of course it could be something else, but like I suggest at
    the top, the distributor's parts should be a prime suspect.

    Elle
    Original owner, 1991 Civic LX, 172k miles, 2nd Distributor
    Housing, yada
     
    Elle, Nov 17, 2005
    #2
  3. fart

    Burt S. Guest

    If the car still runs fine and there is no discernable change then the
    problem is just the tach resistor, its connection or the instrument gauge.
    How's the distributor, is hot by the touch?
     
    Burt S., Nov 17, 2005
    #3
  4. fart

    fart Guest

    Hi thanks for the information.

    I will try these tests and get back to you.

    I guess I should have mentioned that that exact same clicking sound
    that I was told meant the distributor is going bad is happening again
    now - so this goes back to my first question. I wouldn't think it
    needs replacing either after only a couple years either, but what do I
    know!

    The distributor housing is OEM, as for the igniter and coil, I would
    guess they are the original ones from 91 since I don't recall ever
    replacing them - where are these 2 parts located and is it something
    that a beginner could replace on their own?

    Thanks again.
     
    fart, Nov 17, 2005
    #4
  5. fart

    fart Guest

    Last I checked, I wouldn't call it hot, but it was definately warm.
    I will try checking it again after my next "trip".

    Thanks for the help!
     
    fart, Nov 17, 2005
    #5
  6. fart

    fart Guest

    Hi thanks for all the info.

    I would guess the igniter and coil are both the original ones from 91,
    since I have no recollection of ever replacing them.

    The distributor is OEM.

    I will try these test and get back to you.

    Thanks again!
     
    fart, Nov 17, 2005
    #6
  7. fart

    Elle Guest

    I will try these tests and get back to you.
    One of the tipoffs for bad distributor bearings is supposed
    to be red dust in the distributor cap. I'd still be amazed
    if the bearings had already gone bad again, but I hear you
    about the noise sounding the same.

    Another possibility:
    Do you hear the clicking both when the engine is relatively
    cool (after a morning start, for example) and after starting
    when it is already warm?

    If so, this implies the intake/exhaust valve lash is set a
    little high but not necessarily out of spec.

    When was the last time the valve lash was adjusted?
    You did replace only the housing, right? On a car this old
    the shop that replaced it might have figured you needed a
    new igniter and coil at this age as well, for an extra $200
    on top of the cost of the housing. To a customer not
    particularly knowledgeable on the subject, that would be
    easy to sell using the line, "You really need a whole new
    distributor." Housing, coil, igniter, wha??

    An advanced beginner with a decent set of wrenches and
    sockets, a bit of patience, and a willingness to follow the
    directions closely can definitely replace both of these on
    his/her own. Do not overtighten the little distributor cap
    bolts. Do not overtighten the bigger distributor housing
    hold-down bolts. Both are just snug: Don't he-man them. (I
    "He-Manned" the distributor cap bolts once and sheared the
    thing off.) Preferably you'll use a torque wrench on the
    hold-down bolts.

    The first step to take is not in the manual and was a little
    confusing to me the first time. Here it is: People in the
    honda newsgroups advised marking the distributor and
    camshaft housings so one does not have to re-check and
    possibly adjust the timing. If you look at the three large
    bolts that hold the housing in place, you'll see that the
    flange through which they extend allows one to rotate the
    whole housing assembly clockwise or counterclockwise. This
    adjusts the ignition timing. I did not understand this until
    I got the housing loose. Then it's too late. Yet it's not
    catastrophic. Post if this step does not make sense. One can
    actually kind of see part of the line I drew with a sharpie
    market on my 91 Civic's housing at the bottom of
    http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id5.html . Look
    just to the right of the top distributor housing hold-down
    bolt. It's a little to the right of dead center of the
    photo.

    The second step is the only really tricky part:
    Disconnecting the two electrical connectors to the
    distributor. Figuring out which tab has to be pressed and
    which way etc. always baffles me for 10 minutes or more. Go
    slow. Have a tiny screwdriver to insert into the tab area to
    mess with it until it comes free. It shouldn't take much
    force at all.

    Then follow the steps at www.autozone.com 's free online
    manual for the 91 Civic. On the left at the autozone site,
    click on "Repair Info," then "Vehicle Repair Guides." Click
    on car year, make, and model, etc. Or use the steps given at
    http://techauto.te.funpic.org/index.php?content=Ignition
    (which does talk about making the mark I suggest above, only
    using a razor blade).

    See the autozone manual for directions for removing the
    coil. I think removing the coil first makes removing the
    igniter easier.

    Here are directions for the igniter, or again see the
    Autozone manual's directions.
    http://www.marklamond.co.uk/howto/electrical/igniter/igniter
    ..htm

    Tegger's unofficial FAQ site also has a lot of commentary on
    both of these. It's worth reading at least once quickly,
    taking notes as needed about removal, before you begin. See
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startprobtop .
    Unfortunately the link for how to replace the igniter isn't
    working at the moment. Tegger?
    Good luck. Updates are welcome, since they help people in
    the future.

    Also, I would consider the other suggestions here (e.g.
    Burt's re the Tach resistor) as well. Diagnosing over the
    internet is hard but not impossible. Hang in there. These
    vintage Hondas are amazing in their tenacity.
     
    Elle, Nov 17, 2005
    #7
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