91 Civic, no spark

Hi all, I need help! Please!?!?!?!
91 Civic dx, 1.5l. TEC distributor (which isn't in the Haynes manual)
I've read through the earlier posts on this topic and don't think I've
managed to find the problem.
This thing cranks and cranks, no go. It has fuel, just no spark.
Changed the igniter, still no go. Took the dist. cover off and noticed
that the wire to the side of the igniter did not get put on properly by
the mech who changed the igniter. Fixed that connection up but still no
go. Did we fry the igniter by trying to start it with this wire not
getting good contact?
Next, checked the coil best I could figure out from the manual which
doesn't cover this distributor. Resistance from + to - with the wires
disconnected is 1.2 ohms; 12.5 ohms from the + to the tower; 12.9 from -
to the tower.
Like I said, the Haynes manual doesn't cover a TEC distributor so I
don't have reference values to see if this is right for the coil. Also,
before I rip it back apart was hoping to hear if we screwed the new
igniter in our follies.
Thanx a pile, reply to my email too if you don't mind, it's valid.
Cheers,
Gord

 

is that ohms or k ohms int he coil secondary? if it's ohms, your coil's
dead.

other than that, don't think you fried the igniter with a bad connection.

better diagnosis is like this;

are you getting signal from the ecu?
are you getting power to the igniter?
are you getting power switched from the igniter?
does the coil spark when you energise & release?
are you getting spark from the dist cap/rotor assy?

answering each of those questions will determine fault. all the
individual test methods are described in the faq's or other online sources.

as part of the "power to the igniter" testing, while i don't think it's
common, i recently had the ignition condenser/capacitor fail. it was
near short and was weakening the spark considerably. check it while you
have the distributor open.

 

Coil is toast.

Means bugger all. The coil is grounding through its body.

Make certain the NEW coil has a good ground through proper channels,
meaning the rotor, cap, and wires. Use new OEM unless you really like
gambling.

 

OOPS, yes it was k ohms

 

not getting any signal from the light under the carpet... with my luck
the light's burned out!

 

Now I have a second problem, how do I find the FAQ for this place? I'm
using netscape for playing in newsgroups and don't know how to do that!!!!

 

it's in tegger's signature.

 

Where did you find this condenser? It's not the RF cap is it?

 

it's on the outside of the distributor body. it's wired into the loom
that connects the igniter circuitry in the distributor. part of item 12.

http://www.slhondaparts.com/images/PCI/13SH30/015/8.jpg

 

I do not know if you have replaced the distributor cap and rotor yet.
say this just in case, because I had the same symptoms on my 97 CRV
crank but no spark or start. The distributor contacts had just th
slightest amount of the "whitish" powder buildup on them. The roto
contact edge was "crumbly" looking, not sharp and distinct like the ne
one I had bought. I replaced the cap and it started right up. I the
replaced the rotor and it ran a lot smoother. Hope this helps. BTW,
bought it used w/ 65K miles, and I have about 115K on it now. Goo
Luck

 

Hmm. I see it. It looks just like an old-style Kettering condenser. My
wiring diagrams don't show it.

I'll add a reference to the FAQ, thanks.