91 Accord engine started to miss last night

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Thom, Dec 1, 2007.

  1. Thom

    Thom Guest

    Very odd. the engine started to miss (sounds like one cylinder is not
    firing) for about 1 minute. It went away for 5 minutes, then came
    back, I replaced the plugs (they didn't look too good anyway), but it
    didn't help.

    Has anyone run accross this before. My first thought is the plug
    wires /dist/rotor, just need to be pointed in the right direction.


    91Accord EX, 169,000 miles
    Thom, Dec 1, 2007
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  2. Thom

    Elle Guest

    You are on the right track. Things you can do to nail this
    effectively and economically:

    If the wires do poorly on a resistance check, replace. If
    you do not understand this, ask away.

    If the wires are more than five years old, replace.

    How old are the cap and rotor in miles and years? Are they

    Use only the OEM recommended spark plugs, and only OEM
    wires, rotor and cap. These pay for themselves in the long
    run. (Believe me, I am cheap and learned the hard way.) They
    do make a difference in performance.

    Regular poster here "Tegger" has a site with much good
    wisdom on it. See in particular

    Original owner, 1991 Civic, 201k miles
    Elle, Dec 1, 2007
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  3. Thom

    motsco_ Guest


    First telltale sign on a '91 might be red rust coating the inside of the
    distributor cap. The bearing goes bad and starts leaking dust. When it
    seizes, the timing belt breaks and you get a different car.

    How often do you use injector cleaner? Might just be a sticking injector

    motsco_, Dec 2, 2007
  4. Thom

    Tegger Guest

    That red dust was actually more a '92-and-up problem. The distributor was
    changed for '92 to mate with the all-new ECU. It's still worth checking for
    red dust, of course...
    Tegger, Dec 3, 2007
  5. Thom

    Tegger Guest

    Is your Check Engine light on?

    Have you checked to see what the spark looks like? Is is purply-blue?

    How old are the wires, cap and rotor? Are they OEM or aftermarket?
    Tegger, Dec 3, 2007
  6. Thom

    Thom Guest

    Cap and rotor were way old, I assume. Before I bought it. We were
    testing the spark on #2 cylinder, when we removed the wire, the car
    quit. Either we smoked the distributor, or it doed right there. We
    replaced it, and it is back to running bad, but it is running. We
    have tested the spark on all the cylinders, it is nice and strong, but
    number 2 cylinder is real weak. A compression test has revealed low
    to no compression on that cylinder. Looks like we burned a valve or
    Thom, Dec 7, 2007
  7. Thom

    Tegger Guest


    Before you condemn the valves, check their clearances. You might get lucky
    and the valve is simply being held open and not yet burnt.
    Tegger, Dec 9, 2007
  8. Thom

    Thom Guest

    I thought these enginse were interference engines. Wouldn't the
    piston slap the valve it it were being held open?
    Thom, Dec 12, 2007
  9. Thom

    Tegger Guest

    They /are/ interference engines.

    But when I say "held open", I mean by one or two thousandths of an inch.
    That's more than enough to cause poor compression and valve burning with no
    danger at all of the piston hitting the valve.

    Pistons whack the valves when the timing belt breaks, not when the valve
    clearances are off.
    Tegger, Dec 12, 2007
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