91 Accord engine heating up

Hello all,

I have a 91 Accord with 152K miles on it.
Last week I noticed, when I was stuck in traffic that the temp.
guage was all the way up at high in red! Completely freaked me
out. Just then the traffic started movin and the temp guage
came down to regular level. Then it happened again when I
went to pick up my son at school. I put the car in neutral
and raced the engine for about 5 seconds - guage back to normal!
No temp problems when car is running and not stuck in traffic.
Is this a known problem? What is the solution?

TIA

Raj

 

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With cold engine, open the cap and see if the rad is full to the top,
then open the reservoir and see if it's half-full. Check your parking
spot to determine if it's leaking. If it's dripping below the 'fan
belts', don't drive the car far since your water pump might sieze,
destroying your timing belt and valves... Wouldn't that be a Merry
Christmas?

If that ever happens again, turning your heater on FULL can help to cool
it down, as a temporary measure.

'Curly'

 

floridly penned in

You're describing a possible blown head gasket. Either that or a non-
operating cooling fan.

If the fan comes on when the engine begins to overheat, then it's fine.

If the coolant expansion reservoir level is way higher than it ought to be
and the rad is low, that's a big giveaway of a head gasket problem.

Check the rad and expansion tank and report back here.

 

I'll summarize my experience, which puzzled me for 3 months.

Car: 1991 Accord (163k Miles, Automatic)

Symptoms:
1) Blown water hose, coolant leaking everywhere. Replaced said water
hose. Temperature ran a bit hotter than before.
2) Blown water hose (somewhere else), caused a slow leak. Replaced
said water hose. Temperature is now erratic. Normal when driven, but
approaching red when stopped.

Performed fan tests:
1) Turn AC on, both fans should be running. If not, your fan or fan
switch may be bad.
2) Leave your car in the driveway, idling. Cooling fan should come on
between 5 - 10 minutes, after engine warm-up, and continue to come on
every 5 - 10 minutes. If not, then most likely either the thermostat
or temperature switch is bad.

My results: I got through both tests just fine, but the temperature
continued its erratic behavior. I proceeded to replace the cheapest
component, thermostat (~$15, use genuine Honda), and now eveything is
back to normal.

My discovery: The damn mechanic used a generic thermostat, which may
have performed differently than Honda's specifications. It most likely
did not open, or open fully, at the specified temperatures; resulting
in reduced coolant flow at stopped traffic.

Another note: Make sure to bleed the system of air after any component
replacement. My "normal" temperature gauge is now steadily pointing at
between D and D3 of the transmission readout.

Good Luck.

 

The cheapass theromstats that u get from discount part
stores for $5 do not work well. Half of them are busted
by the time you buy them. Just use Honda thermostats.

t

 

Are Stant okay?

 

if it has a air relief valve, make sure thermostat is installed correctly.
Honda thermostats has the valve. Not sure if stats have them.
Also make sure system is purged of air, buy a repair manual for steps.

 

Well, no sppots in the garage, so no leaks from rad.
Rad is not full to the top, resservoir is half empty.
Do you think it just needs more coolant?

TIA

Raj

 

Well, no spots in the garage, so no leaks from rad.
Rad is not full to the top, resservoir is half empty.
Do you think it just needs more coolant?

TIA

Raj

 

The fan comes on and I hear it after I park the car in the garage.
I just replied to Curly's message that I don't see any coolant when
I open the rad but coolant is halfway down in the reservoir.
Is it just a matter of low coolant?

Thanks.

Raj

 

floridly penned in

No coolant when you look in the rad? Uh oh. Your problem is poor
circulation.

Where's all the coolant going? If the system has been neglected for a long
time, it may be simply that the level has been allowed to drop too far,
which will happen over a long enough period. Or it could the head gasket
has failed.

Top the rad up with the engine off, start the car and let it run, topping
up more if the level drops. Once the level begins to spill over the filler
neck, put the rad cap back.

Secondarily, how old is that rad cap? Just in case, and because it's so
cheap, pick up a new one of the same rating as the one that's on there now.

With the new rad cap installed, keep a sharp eye on the rad and reservoir
level over the next day. If the rad level drops again, the head gasket is
suspect.

 

Alright, I will give this a shot.
Thanks for all your help.

Raj

 

This probably is not much help, but I have a 91 Accord with the same
problem. I have tried every solution mentioned, except for changing the
sensor. I've had multiple mechanics look into this problem and they all
have said the sensor is fine. I have replaced the radiator & cap, 4
thermostats, all hoses, and a water pump. I have had this problem for 3
years now and I'm going crazy because I can't get the problem fixed (even
by a Honda mechanic). Good Luck

 

Please describe the EXACT symptoms you are experiencing.

 

3 years ago on a road trip my radiator split. I got the radiator, cap &
hoses replaced at that time. About 2 weeks after that, the car was still
overheating. New mechanic replaced timing belt & water pump & thermostat.
After that repair (Nov 2001) my car would not produce heat only air
conditioning. Thats when the overheating got complicated. When I
initially start the car it will not overheat, no matter how long I let it
run. The temperature gauge rests at about the half way mark. When I
drive the car for about 2 miles and come to a stop, the temperature gauge
starts rising. As soon as I accerlate from the stop the temperature gauge
drops back down to the half way mark (this process repeats every time I
stop the car). When I drive the car on the highway for long distances the
temperature gauge starts rising after about 50 miles. Also, It doesn't
appear that the fan is coming on. After I turn the car off, the fan will
come on about 5 minutes
later. Current mileage - 150,000. I have owned 2 previous Accords (80 &
85) both with over 200,000 miles and never had a problem like this. I
want to get over 300,000 on this car. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.

 

Let's summarize here:

Replaced are the
rad
rad cap
rad hoses
water pump
thermostat.

I have three questions:
1) Are the thermostat and water pump dealer items or aftermarket?
2) Does the heater still refuse to make heat?
3) When the car begins to overheat, and with the engine RUNNING, does the
fan come on?

Next time the temperature gauge begins to climb, quickly pull over, pop the
hood and take a look at the cooling fan.

Oh, and please turn quoting back on in your Web interface.

 

Hi TeGGeR,

The Honda manual recommends replacing the coolant
every 2 years or 30K miles. I haven't replaced the coolant
in a long time. Would be just better to get it replaced or
should I go the top it off route?

Thanks

Raj

 

Hi TeGGeR,

The Honda manual recommends replacing the coolant
every 2 years or 30K miles. I haven't replaced the coolant
in a long time. Would be just better to get it replaced or
should I go the top it off route?

Thanks

Raj

 

floridly penned in

Get it replaced.

Coolant gets corrosive when it gets old. Corrosive coolant means shortened
life for many components, including the head gasket.

Honda OEM coolant is supposedly good for five years, but to me, personally,
that's stretching it. I prefer 2 years.