90 integra broken timing belt

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Googamooga, Sep 6, 2004.

  1. Googamooga

    Googamooga Guest

    OK guys I finally broke my timing belt on my 90 integra LS while driving home
    from work. Mechanic wanted $650 for new timing belt and water pump with no
    guarantees since there could be more engine damage. According to the mechanic
    the only way to see if there is further damage is if I paid for the replacement
    of water pump and timing belt to diagnose serious engine damage which could
    cost around $2000. Is there a way to find out if the engine is worth
    repairing before I waste $650?

    Thanks
     
    Googamooga, Sep 6, 2004
    #1
  2. Googamooga

    Jafir Elkurd Guest

    You could have the cams pulled and run a cylinder leakage test. On the SOHC
    engines, it's a little easier, you can just pull the rocker shafts off, and
    run the test.
     
    Jafir Elkurd, Sep 6, 2004
    #2
  3. Googamooga

    SoCalMike Guest

    original belt? how many miles? just curious...

    well, since youre at *that* point?

    ask how much to take the head off and look. should be trivial since the
    belt is already off, etc.

    then you can decide of you want to:

    junk the car
    rebuild the head
    get a used head
    get a used low mile japanese engine


    and if its good? you can have em clean it up a bit, put a new head
    gasket on and reinstall... THEN do the belt and water pump.

    shouldnt be more than $300 to take the head off to replace the head
    gasket. maybe $150 just to get the head off and look?

    why your mechanic didnt suggest this option suggests to me he either
    really doesnt want your business, doesnt know what hes doing, or wants
    to make the most money possible. or he just isnt very bright...
     
    SoCalMike, Sep 6, 2004
    #3
  4. Googamooga

    Googamooga Guest

    It was on my 2nd belt, it had 170,000 miles on it. It failed somewhat
    prematurely since the waterpump gave out and it started to overheat often. It
    got real bad when I went to Walmart for an oil change, they did something and
    the water pump causing the water pump to leak water like a river, I had to fill
    the reservoir up 2 times on the ride home.

    The mechanic was a bit fishy, I told him since the engine was most likely a
    goner I would probably give it to the junk yard, he then offered to take it off
    my hands if I couldn't find a junk yard who will take it.

    Since its a 90 model, the junk yard refused to pay for it, it has no rust, the
    transmission is in great shape, but they were saying its too old and they have
    too many cars like it in their lot already.

    So now I have decided to give it to a friend in need. Most mechanics he had
    talked to don't know how to test for damage before cashing out for the timing
    belt and water pump. I will be sure to mention to him about the head removal
    for inspection.

    thanks
     
    Googamooga, Sep 6, 2004
    #4
  5. Googamooga

    motsco_ _ Guest

    =====================

    Goog . .

    Turn the crank slowly by hand to put pistons to half-mast, rotate the
    cam by hand, use feeler guages to check valve clearances. Some will have
    terrific gaps, proving that several are bent.

    Read this . . . . http://honda.lathi.net/faq.html#interference

    If you're non-mechanical, then post an ad on a newsgroup, or in the Auto
    trader to sell it, or eBay....

    Sad news, sorry :-( 'Curly'
     
    motsco_ _, Sep 6, 2004
    #5
  6. Googamooga

    Guest Guest

    Being an interference engine, it is most likely that damage did occur.

    Basically, bank on valve damage, and hope that the piston(s) aren't
    damaged as well. Generally, this mishap will crater the head, and not
    the rest of the engine.

    Mine popped at idle, clutch in, turning a corner. Replaced the head
    with a reman one, and it cost me $1500, whcih was from a friend,
    so it was bare cost. Would have been $2500 or more had he not
    done that favor for me.

    Car has since run as new. 114K now, repair was done around 92K.

    Belt change interval was 90K, so I wasn't far out of spec on replacing
    it. Next time, I'd replace the belt early, by even 20K or so, just for
    the preventative maintenance aspect. Also, change the water pump as
    well at that time.

    Even as it sits, that engine is worth money.

    The prospect of getting a low-mileage replacement engine is not a
    bad choice either, if the rest of the car is worthy:

    http://www.powerpro2000.com/lb_acura.htm
     
    Guest, Sep 6, 2004
    #6
  7. Googamooga

    KWW Guest

    If the waterpump gave out you should have had it towed at that point. The
    most common failure mode for pumps is that they leak. That said, if you
    found a replacement engine in the junk yard that was in good shape you could
    either scavenge it for parts or swap it out. It seems encouraging that they
    "have a bunch of them" at the parts yard. I am not sure, but I wonder how
    interchangable the heads would be if there were one with a damaged engine
    but which had a good head? (can't think at the moment what sort of damage it
    would have sustained that wouldn't also mess up the head, unless it was
    overheating, or getting partially mashed in an accident.

    Good luck.
     
    KWW, Sep 7, 2004
    #7
  8. Googamooga

    unix-freak Guest

    Just curious...wouldn't backing the valve adjuster out completely- close the
    valves so that the leak test could performed without pulling the rocker
    shaft?

    If not...that would be the way to go.
    Also.....my vtec just broke a belt and I suffered no damage at all..although
    I've spent 550.00 so far and I'm doing all the labor.
    270.00 valves and seat grinded/valve stem seals...cleaning.
    150.00 timing belt/water pump...and other associated costs.
    130.00 head gasket set and oil pan gasket.

    Good luck.
     
    unix-freak, Sep 7, 2004
    #8
  9. Googamooga

    Jafir Elkurd Guest

    On the valves that are most of the way open, backing the adjusters all the
    way back would probably still leave the valves partially open.
     
    Jafir Elkurd, Sep 7, 2004
    #9
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