90 civic dual point FI problem

Discussion in 'Civic' started by Mike McDonald, Jul 18, 2005.

  1. Anyone know how to troubleshoot a 90 1.5L with dual point fuel injection?
    Will only start and run with secondary fuel injector disconnected.
    Otherwise floods out and won't run. No trouble codes unless injector is
    unplugged. Neither injector seems to leak only spray while engine is
    cranking. Tried all the tips in the Haynes book and all voltages and
    resistances seem OK for the injectors, MAP, temp sensor, air controller,
    etc. Any other ideas? Thanks
     
    Mike McDonald, Jul 18, 2005
    #1
  2. Mike McDonald

    jim beam Guest

    secondary may be sticking open much longer than required. can you start
    the engine with secondary disconnected, then reconnect once running? if
    so, does it run ok or flood again? the secondary should not [or hardly]
    be injecting at idle, only on enrichment. if you can see it throwing
    fuel, with the engine warm at any rate, it's sticking open.

    on a related matter, is the tandem valve opening ok? check it by
    disconnecting the tube on the diaphragm, opening the tandem valve
    [that's the "choke"-like thing at the top of the throttle body] and
    putting a wetted finger over the diaphragm inlet. the tandem valve
    should stay open. if it closes, the diaphragm's shot. that's uncommon.
    much more likely is that the vacuum tube from the actuator is leaking.
    simple & cheap to replace about 1.5".
     
    jim beam, Jul 18, 2005
    #2
  3. Thanks,
    Reconnecting the secondary does cause engine to reflood. I checked the
    injector out of car with a nine volt battery and it clicks OK. When in car,
    it does
    not leak when fuel line comes up to pressure, only when engine cranking or
    running,
    which makes me wonder if ECU is telling it to open. With other older FI
    systems I've
    worked on, the MAP sensor had the ability to stop the engine from starting
    or running
    by making the mixture go too rich. Would like to be able to verify MAP is OK
    or not
    to isolate problem to the injector. Voltages to the MAP connector OK, but
    there is no
    test given to test the MAP by itself. Don't get a trouble code for the MAP,
    but don't know
    if the ECU would set one or not. No reason to suspect the ECU is bad at
    this time, and they
    are usually the least likely to fail. Was wondering if there seemed to be a
    history of either a
    FI sensors going bad or injectors failing before I resort to replacing
    parts. Will check the
    tandam valve, mostly I'm holding that open manually to see down the barrel.
     
    Mike McDonald, Jul 19, 2005
    #3
  4. Mike McDonald

    jim beam Guest

    that's good, but clicking != guaranteed correct function.
    the best check is to get a scope & look at the signal. if it's the same
    as a functioning dpfi civic, it's not the ecu, but it's not likely to be
    the ecu anyway.
    ecu will almost certainly set a code on the map sensor [or ap sensor in
    the passenger cabin] being defective.
    if you hold the tandem open while you're running the engine, you'e going
    to have a problem - it works /with/ the auxillary injector to make sure
    there's sufficient vacuum to vaporize the fuel. no restriction from the
    tandem = no vacuum = "excess" fuel.

    btw, what symptoms make you think it's flooding? if it's simply not
    starting, check the main relay. your vintage civic is a prime candidate
    for this very common problem.

    otherwise, get yourself to a junk yard & get an auxillary injector.
    they rarely fail, so a used one is likely to work just fine - at least
    good enough to get a decent diagnostic.
     
    jim beam, Jul 20, 2005
    #4
  5. Thanks again. Will check out main relay, but since car will start when the
    plugs and throttle body are dry and secondary injector is disconnected, I
    doubt its bad. Could check signal to injector, but don't know what a proper
    one should look like. Simple DC check shows its not always on and in range.
    ~5 volts I think last time I checked. Voltage to air injector OK and its
    resistance OK also. If I don't come up with anything new, I guess I'll
    start with a new injector and see what happens. Hate to start replacing
    parts without knowing they're bad as it can get real expensive real fast.

     
    Mike McDonald, Jul 20, 2005
    #5
  6. Mike McDonald

    jim beam Guest

    i sympathize, but you're caught between the rock & hard place of not
    having more extensive test equipment & not wanting to unnecessarily
    replace parts. if you don't have the gear, you got to replace parts.
    all you need is a used injector. it's not that expensive. poke about
    your local junk yard.
     
    jim beam, Jul 21, 2005
    #6
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