2009 Honda Accord Engine Oil Change Guide

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Paul Michaels, Apr 27, 2009.

  1. I just performed the first oil change on our new 2009 Honda Accord LX
    sedan. The odometer read 5,800 miles and the oil life meter was at
    20%, so I figured it was about time.

    It's a fairly simple procedure that can save you money and even time
    once you become familiar with it.

    I took pictures while I changed the oil and wrote up a quick guide.
    Here's the page -

    I'm sure most of you could do this with your eyes closed, but
    hopefully it will help some of the new owners out there.

    Paul Michaels
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Paul Michaels, Apr 27, 2009
  2. Paul Michaels

    Tegger Guest

    Nice, but a few points need to be made:

    1) The jack stand is not just a nice thing to have for "extra safety", it
    is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL. Do NOT get under that 3,000 car with it supported
    only by an oil-filled jack. Hospitals and coffins are dreadful places to
    end up in. Hydraulic jacks DO fail, and can do so suddenly.

    2) The oil filler cap does NOT need to be removed when you drain. The PCV
    system's crankcase breather pipe allows more than enough air to prevent any
    sort of vacuum from forming.

    3) 5W-20 motor oil might be correct for your very new car, but many others
    require 5W-30. Use of 5W-20 will cause bearing damage on Hondas not
    designed to use it.

    4) If you're going to be using aftermarket filters (a practice I personally
    discourage), you need to make absolutely certain the old aftermarket gasket
    has come off with the old aftermarket filter. If the old gasket stays
    behind, the new oil will barf out all over the road next time you drive the
    car. OEM oil filters won't do this.

    5) That drain bolt has a specific torque setting. Just reefing a Honda
    drain bolt tight risks eventually stripping the threads in the pan. You
    give no torque figure, and likely had no idea there even was one. Plus you
    should use a new washer.

    6) The final oil level should be all the way up to the "FULL" mark, not
    half-way between "FULL" and "ADD".
    Tegger, Apr 28, 2009
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