2003 4door Accord front power windows

Hi.

Does anyone have any problems with front power windows. Recently my
front power windows stoped working at approximately the same time
(within 2 weeks of eachother). Honda service took a look and claim
that both window regulators have to be replaced i.e. $250 per side
plus 3 hour labour + tax, so just under $1000. Has anyone ever opened
these units to attempt a repair? Sounds like another electrical defect
to me.

Thanks.

 

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You are more perceptive than the dealer. It sounds lie you've got
corrosion where the controller module grounds, or a wire broken.

Someone around here will know. www.hondasuv.com has some good discussion
happening about this topic, and the systems will be almost identical, if
you want to sign in and SEARCH.

'Curly'

 

That's what it sounds like to me. The motors aren't hard to test once the
door panel is off (start with the driver's door, with richer hunting grounds
and shorter control wires) the regulator motors can be unplugged and a
twelve volt source - even a battery charger - connected across the motor to
ensure it works both ways. Alternatively, the motors can be left connected
and the voltages checked with a meter. 2003 is awfully new for the
regulators to fail, especially two that close together.

Mike

 

Michael Pardee wrote:
the regulator motors can be unplugged and a

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True, Michael, but the OP may not know that most modern battery chargers
don't put out anything unless they detect a partially-charged battery.
Better to use a left-over battery out of your motorcycle / alarm system.
They're small to work with and won't spill any acid on you (on a good day).

'Curly'

 

I didn't know that! My charger is almost 30 years old.

 

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Yeah, it's part of the 'automatic charge' thing, and it usually says in
the instructions that "This unit will not charge a battery that is
totally DEAD"

Don't feel bad. I discovered this secret about 25 years ago when I tried
to use the company's charger to recharge a dead battery. It wouldn't put
out even 5 volts so I dismantled the charger and figured out from the
internal circuitry that it was designed to 'taper off' when it reached
about 13.8 volts. Afterwards I looked on the instructions and saw the
'warning'.

Since then I know that I have to piggy-back TWO batteries so the charger
will start working, then disconnect the better one after a few minutes
(or just use the old clunker charger to get the job done).

'Curly'